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Hey guys so I just purchased a new 95 civic with a manual transmission. I noticed about two weeks ago that the reverse lights do not work. I replaced the bulbs still nothing. Replaced the switch and still not working. I checked the fuse hopefully it was the right one and it was good. There is no power at the reverse switch. So I guess my question is any ideas what the problem is or how to just run a new power wire to the switch? Any and all help is appreciated
The previous owner probably did an auto to manual and didn't wire in the reverse light. You might have to wire that one in. Shouldn't be hard. Can you confirm if there is a rectangle plug in your consoler where the shifter is?
The previous owner probably did an auto to manual and didn't wire in the reverse light. You might have to wire that one in. Shouldn't be hard. Can you confirm if there is a rectangle plug in your consoler where the shifter is?
Ok i will take a look for both the rectangle plug and also double check the fuse. As a LAST RESORT could I run a a hot wire from the battery to the yellow wire at the switch harness? I know it's not the proper way to fix the problem is why I ask
Ok i will take a look for both the rectangle plug and also double check the fuse. As a LAST RESORT could I run a a hot wire from the battery to the yellow wire at the switch harness? I know it's not the proper way to fix the problem is why I ask
You shouldn't, if you do than your backup lights might stay on will be constantly.
So I checked and there is no rectangular plug by my shifter. Also checked the fuse again and it is good has power going to it and leaving it but it's not making it to the switch
Come on man, I gave you the diagram so you can check the wiring, check continuity from the switch all the way to the fusebox.
This may come as a shock to you, but not everyone knows how to read wiring schematics. I have the same car as the op and am experiencing the same issues, but to me, your wiring diagram looks like blueprints to a nuclear bomb.
Check continuity from the fuse box (Yellow wire) to switch.
Check continuity from switch (green/black wire) to reverse lights.
Check continuity from reverse lights (black wire) to ground.
To check the yellow wire you can start at the engine harness, from the switch to the driver side plug, than from driver side plug to fusebox
Do the same for the green/black wire, from switch to driver side plug, from driver side plug to reverse light.
For the black wire to reverse light its basicly from the plug to ground.
so i was looking and i just wanted to make sure this is the right plug you are talking about to check. is it the one i circled? I want to make sure before i go messing around with any wiring since its not my strong skill and do not want to ruin any thing else.
This is what I did to my little brother's 89 hatch that had a similar problem. Might work for you, might not, I'm just putting something out there that worked for us. Someone had torn out the wiring before we got the car. The plug was still there with little stubs, but nothing beyond that. We ran a hot wire to the switch and put an inline fuse on it, then ran from the other side of the switch to the reverse lights and then from reverse to ground. It was simple, we got it done in about 20 minutes with a full interior car, and it was ready for chp inspection. Passed with no problems, and we never had trouble with it. He used that car for about 4 years after and never had an issue. The lights came on when they needed to and stayed off when they didn't need to be on. Problem solved. Hope it helps
Last edited by Mikepsedan_00; Nov 12, 2014 at 06:46 PM.
Reason: Misspelling
If you're getting power to the fuse, but not to the switch, you can wire from the fuse straight to the switch. Should take care of it, considering there's no breaks between the switch and the reverse lights
This is what I did to my little brother's 89 hatch that had a similar problem. Might work for you, might not, I'm just putting something out there that worked for us. Someone had torn out the wiring before we got the car. The plug was still there with little stubs, but nothing beyond that. We ran a hot wire to the switch and put an inline fuse on it, then ran from the other side of the switch to the reverse lights and then from reverse to ground. It was simple, we got it done in about 20 minutes with a full interior car, and it was ready for chp inspection. Passed with no problems, and we never had trouble with it. He used that car for about 4 years after and never had an issue. The lights came on when they needed to and stayed off when they didn't need to be on. Problem solved. Hope it helps
I was considering this option. What size fuse did you guys use?
so i was looking and i just wanted to make sure this is the right plug you are talking about to check. is it the one i circled? I want to make sure before i go messing around with any wiring since its not my strong skill and do not want to ruin any thing else.
Probably so. I think I see the green wire showing in the image. Both the wires run to that location but only one runs to the fuse box. Once you confirm continuity than you need to see why that fuse outlet is not feeding it power through the fuse. Be sure to check for continuity betwee the legs on the fuse as well, it may look good but its probably not.
You're not making any major changes, you're just tracing wires by sticking the probe on opposite ends to check if its the corrrect wire.
I was considering this option. What size fuse did you guys use?
10amp.. but you said you're getting power to your fuse right? If so, you don't have to put your own fuse in, you can just wire from the reverse light fuse in your fuse box. Just find out which is the hot side, and wire in to the opposite side.
Ok so I now have power from the switch to the wire harness on the driver side. It has power in and coming out of the plug but there has to be a brake somewhere inside the car because there is no power making it to the rear. What is the best way to run a new wire from the plug to the reverse lights?