What's up guys, I'm new here and just finishing up my first Honda swap. It's a 1995 eg 5 sd that had the stock D15 in it, I pulled that and installed a built D16Y7. I'm having trouble getting it to stay runnig. I'm using all my factory wiring harness and the D15 dizzy as well. The motor is built with a stage 3 bullfrog cam but I don't know the exact specs on it. I can't get the timing anywhere close to where it needs to be. Any thoughts or input? Thanks in advance guys!

 

So, what ECU? The 3-stage VTEC cam from what engine?

 

P06 ECU, and it's non vtec, just a stage 3 cam allegedly.

 

You need to find out more about the cam.

What's the head code?

What CEL codes?

 

I couldn't tell you the head code off the top of my head right now, but the check engine light has yet to kick on.

 

Click the head code link I posted.

Does the CEL work?

 

CEL does work, head code is P2F-HA-6.

 

What's the year code?

https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...-here-3210150/

 

2000.

 

Well, the head is probably a match for a D16Y7. You'll need to figure out the current cam or swap in a cam from a D16Y7 head.

 

The guy I purchased it from said it was running great in his car when he pulled it. (Yes I know how that goes). Is there any tuning that can be done to the ECU to correct any of this or is it my distributor?

 

Go to this thread.

There's mention of being 1/2 tooth off unless the correct cam pulley is used.

 

Hmmm. That's some quality info. Thank you for that. Would it help any if I posted a video of how its running and what it's doing?

 

Sure

 

Okay I can do that tomorrow evening.

 

Ignition or mechanical timing or both?

 

Both.

 

Look at the diagram I posted. How does your mechanical timing look?

 

Ohhh gotcha. Mechanical timing is on point then it looks like because that's how my marks are lined up. I'm defintitely gonna double check tomorrow though.

 

Does your cam pulley match the one in the picture. There are TDC1 tick marks on the front and rear of the cam pulley that must align with the top surface of the head when the crank pulley pointer aims at the white TDC1 mark.

If that's good, then check the ignition timing with a timing gun. See procedure in the FAQs sticky.

 

There is some vital bits of information missing here in my opinion.

You have a D16Y7 motor (OBD2) in an OBD1 car with an OBD1 ECU.

You didn't specify what you did to get the wiring hooked up. By that I'm mainly thinking the injectors.

Basically you didn't specify if you swapped the OBD1 fuel rail and injectors to the Y7 motor or if you are somehow running the OBD2 injectors of the Y7.

With a stage 3 cam (very aggressive) I don't see how the stock D15B7 ECU (P06) will run it well no matter what.

You need to get that ECU chipped and then tuned for the motor. Stage 3 typically is track orientated car meant for all top end power.

If the D16Y7 is stock head and block (not a mini-me) I am not sure why there would be a half a tooth off unless it has something to do with the D15 distributor. The thread Ron mentioned that talks about a half a tooth variance seems to be by using a stock Z6 cam in the Y7 head. I would think a stage 3 Y7 cam would have the appropriate timing for the Y7 head. Then again, who is to say what stage 3 cam is in the engine.....

I tend to think that trying to run stock D15B7 maps on a race built D16Y7 motor is the major problem. That's my initial thoughts on it.

Here is a bit from googling:

This is the stock cam lobe height:



And this website gets into the math and explains why high intake lift hurts low rpm (basic running of the motor) performance:

High Performance Math

Quote from that website:Now I could definitely be wrong on your situation but to me it looks like the ECU can't make up for the regular low and mid range operation of the motor due to the extreme stage 3 cam profile.

Also of note, most Stage 3 cams are for vtec motors but there is always the possibility for custom stage 3 camshafts for non vtec if you are willing to shell out the dollars.

Being you don't know what motor that stage 3 cam is for, you may need an adjustable cam gear to get it timed. But it will likely still run poorly unless your ECU is chipped and has base maps for the aggressive cam.

After rereading the thread a few times, I think the mechanical timing is probably correct but the ignition timing is probably off due to the difference in the D15B7 distributor over the D16Y7. Good to know the B7 dizzy will bolt up but sounds like it's off mark in comparison. I don't think an adjustable cam gear is going to fix that.

I wonder if ignition timing can be tweaked by a tuner? I can't say I know a whole lot about the tuning process. If it can be it will also fix the low rpm issues you would normally have with the P06 ecu running a stage 3 cam.

 

I'm using the injectors that came with the motor. I wanna say they're 450cc's but I could be wrong. I just spliced the OBD2 connectors to my factory wiring to plug the injectors in. I was definitely thinking I'll need a Y7 dizzy too, and getting this thing chipped and then tuned definitely makes sense as well.

 

Get a tune.......modification like that requires a tune and an adjustable cam gear. You can't expect results by just slapping an ecu to it with an unknown map.

 

I am doubtful but is there any other places you hard wired?

I am not sure getting a D16Y7 dizzy is your solution. You would have to hard wire it too as it's not OBD1.

I think your fix is simply a tune like Tony mentioned. Which of course means you need to chip your P06 ECU. You could call a tune shop and talk to them to see if a tune can correct ignition timing.