Just curious to what are some peoples builds are I dont want to go N/A but for the b18a1 boost builds. I decited to make my crx a track car. Just curious is it possible for a crx with a b18a1 with awd conversion to beat a 425whp wrx on the track. Or with out the conversion.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forced-induction-16/

 

There is a thread with a bazillion posts in it ALL about the non-vtak B18A/B motors. For your other question, 1) a good driver, 2) about 250-300whp, 3) at least 2/3 the amount he spent on his suspension & tires put into your suspension & tires. Over achieve on 2 of those and it's likely you'll beat him.

One quick tip, don't oversize the turbo. You'll want a small T3 or even T28 with lots of boost to reduce lag if it's a track car.

 

Ok thanks man.

 

Sorry for the double post but i just remembered i have a 14b turbo off my old dsm, would that turbo work. Its small just needs a rebuild.

 

In regards to you PM about more specifics, here it is. I'll admit the B18A/B thread is extremely long and the earlier info is outdated.

If you want 300-400whp, you need to state what you'll be using it for. If you're going just for a dyno queen, a 60-1 turbo or t3/t67 will be a more direct route but with horrible lag. For usable power on the street, >300whp won't be much use in lower gears. A 50trim t3/t4 Garrett with a .63ar stg3 turbine can get up to 400whp especially with fuel better than 93 octane, but needs a decent B18 non-vtec to do so. You'll defintely want to upgrade to a 3 or 4 BAR MAP sensor, because it isn't common to hit those numbers with the 10psi your OEM sensor is limited to.

You'd want to start with a basic bottom end. 8:1 to 9:1 CR unless you have a very experienced Honda tuner. Almost any forged piston is recommend, besides maybe SRP. Eagle rods will work for 99% of cases, Pauter and Carrillo are some other names for better rods. An OBD2 oil pump would be best, since they flow the same as ITR pumps. You'd also need to convert to obd2 timing covers due to the different shape.

For the head you have 2 routes. Non-vtec will require at least some mild porting and a set of springs & cams (Crower 403's are a start). A vtec head will be more work, but can hit 400whp with OEM cams (GSR, ITR, and in most cases B16 cams). Avoid "turbo" cams if possible. Regardless of your head choice, have someone check the valve guides & stems for wear. You'll also want to replace the valve seals & have the valves & seats recut with a decent 3-angle job. If the shop knows how to cut a Honda right, you can see a >30cfm gain just from that. An intake manifold & throttle body upgrade will defintely help, especially on the non-vtec head, but aren't required.

As far as tuning, I'd recommend converting to OBD1 (p06 or p28 ecu) and running Neptune RTP or Hondata S300, although Crome will work in the hands of the right tuner. I'd avoid most OBD0 options - most have issues with >650cc injectors, and you'll need at least 700cc with pump gas and 900cc with E85. Injectornation.com has some great prices on injectors in that size range. BTW you can increase flow just by increasing fuel pressure if you get a decent adjustable FPR such as Fuel Lab; going from 43psi to 60psi is a 15% gain, for instance. The stock fuel rail will be fine, but install a new OEM filter from a dealership and put in at least a Walbro 255Hp pump. For E85 the new Walbro 400 pumps are great - they're quieter and one is designed for constant E85 use.

That covers the basics to get you going.