all motor b serie help
Hi 4 years a go i build my first b20 vtec .
b16a1 head
skunk 2 oversize valves
skunk 2 retainers
skunk 2 valve springs
skunk 2 pro 2 cams
b20b bottom end
carillo pro A rods
cp pistons 12:5.1
hytech 4221
edelbrock victor x intake
70 mm throttle body
550 cc injectors
on e85 mapt bij sneaky tuning (Nl)
Made 271 crack and 240 nm
now my record on track is smasht by 1K serie and 1 H serie so now i wanna build the fastest biggist b serie engine
and i like to get some info from you guys
So far
dart engine 2lr
carillo pro A rods
And fuily skunk head
and pro3 cams or brian crower
now coms the question
What do you think
-pistons and compresion
-cams
-header
Thanx mike
the netherlands
b16a1 head
skunk 2 oversize valves
skunk 2 retainers
skunk 2 valve springs
skunk 2 pro 2 cams
b20b bottom end
carillo pro A rods
cp pistons 12:5.1
hytech 4221
edelbrock victor x intake
70 mm throttle body
550 cc injectors
on e85 mapt bij sneaky tuning (Nl)
Made 271 crack and 240 nm
now my record on track is smasht by 1K serie and 1 H serie so now i wanna build the fastest biggist b serie engine
and i like to get some info from you guys
So far
dart engine 2lr
carillo pro A rods
And fuily skunk head
and pro3 cams or brian crower
now coms the question
What do you think
-pistons and compresion
-cams
-header
Thanx mike
the netherlands
first of all.. good engine you had before, must be fun! 240nm torque 
###you said###
So far
dart engine 2lr
carillo pro A rods
And fuily skunk head
and pro3 cams or brian crower
now coms the question
What do you think
-pistons and compresion
-cams
-header
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
i like the rods... theyre light and good for your application by "track" did you mean zandvoort? if so... pls post vids
would love to see your track runs 
Pistons and compression = since you have e85 on access
i would shoot for something like
13.5:1 / Custom Wiseco's or custom supertech's is what
id choose, theyre light and generally good priced
camshaft : your idea of a Pro3 works, although id like something that
peaks torque a lil higher (not just higher in figure but higher in rpm too)
m24xx or m25xx comes to mind, ive ran pro2,pro3,m24xx's and for track
id lean towards the m24xx ....pro2 and 3 are good.. but mostly theyre for
drag (not to say they wont work for roadracing lol)
just dont go brian crower LOL
headers : the Hytech style 4-2-1 big tube tri-y would be a good choice
but you should also consider your ground clearance with that
as it hangs a bit lower than most.... but if ur not overly dropped or lowered
it should be fine...
a few tips and tricks to the exhaust will get you more oomph
+ some intake tweaks...
this is a fun project pls keep us posted
d15beta (not from netherlands but likes eredivisie lol )

###you said###
So far
dart engine 2lr
carillo pro A rods
And fuily skunk head
and pro3 cams or brian crower
now coms the question
What do you think
-pistons and compresion
-cams
-header
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
i like the rods... theyre light and good for your application by "track" did you mean zandvoort? if so... pls post vids
would love to see your track runs 
Pistons and compression = since you have e85 on access
i would shoot for something like
13.5:1 / Custom Wiseco's or custom supertech's is what
id choose, theyre light and generally good priced
camshaft : your idea of a Pro3 works, although id like something that
peaks torque a lil higher (not just higher in figure but higher in rpm too)
m24xx or m25xx comes to mind, ive ran pro2,pro3,m24xx's and for track
id lean towards the m24xx ....pro2 and 3 are good.. but mostly theyre for
drag (not to say they wont work for roadracing lol)
just dont go brian crower LOL
headers : the Hytech style 4-2-1 big tube tri-y would be a good choice
but you should also consider your ground clearance with that
as it hangs a bit lower than most.... but if ur not overly dropped or lowered
it should be fine...
a few tips and tricks to the exhaust will get you more oomph
+ some intake tweaks...
this is a fun project pls keep us posted

d15beta (not from netherlands but likes eredivisie lol )
I have to warn you about Dart blocks.
I almost insisted to my builder (Endyn Dyamics) that I wanted to use a dart for my max effort nitrous motor being built.
Larry told me without hesistation that it was a tremendous ammout of machining to get one of the Dart blocks in order which nearly doubled the cost alone. It is very touchy in every area and has to be prepared perfectly for use.. Not even the crank thrust washer surface is machined.
He explained that the ONLY reason to go Dart was for the taller deck, period.
Larry also said that He has see no stronger motor than the Darto MID sleeved B series blocks.
Food for thought.
I almost insisted to my builder (Endyn Dyamics) that I wanted to use a dart for my max effort nitrous motor being built.
Larry told me without hesistation that it was a tremendous ammout of machining to get one of the Dart blocks in order which nearly doubled the cost alone. It is very touchy in every area and has to be prepared perfectly for use.. Not even the crank thrust washer surface is machined.
He explained that the ONLY reason to go Dart was for the taller deck, period.
Larry also said that He has see no stronger motor than the Darto MID sleeved B series blocks.
Food for thought.
I have to warn you about Dart blocks.
I almost insisted to my builder (Endyn Dyamics) that I wanted to use a dart for my max effort nitrous motor being built.
Larry told me without hesistation that it was a tremendous ammout of machining to get one of the Dart blocks in order which nearly doubled the cost alone. It is very touchy in every area and has to be prepared perfectly for use.. Not even the crank thrust washer surface is machined.
He explained that the ONLY reason to go Dart was for the taller deck, period.
Larry also said that He has see no stronger motor than the Darto MID sleeved B series blocks.
Food for thought.
I almost insisted to my builder (Endyn Dyamics) that I wanted to use a dart for my max effort nitrous motor being built.
Larry told me without hesistation that it was a tremendous ammout of machining to get one of the Dart blocks in order which nearly doubled the cost alone. It is very touchy in every area and has to be prepared perfectly for use.. Not even the crank thrust washer surface is machined.
He explained that the ONLY reason to go Dart was for the taller deck, period.
Larry also said that He has see no stronger motor than the Darto MID sleeved B series blocks.
Food for thought.
good point... while ive no experience with dart blocks ive seen some odd porosity too personally (someone else's build i watched etc)
might be safer to go Benson or GE i believe GE sometimes carry some LS blocks already sleeved etc
Thanx i need to translate some of the answers tonight because my english is not the best haha.
The track we drive on is drachten
You can see a shot of the old car on youtube .
Sneaky tuning all motor hatch
Not the best run slicks to big but fun to watch.
I wanna go dart because the machine shops her are crappy .
Last year build a fuily build b16 turbo.
And my darton leeved block.had manny sadbacks.
2 times on dyno i had a dropt sleev so
I dont like sleeved engines annymore
Car would be build streetracing and track only
The track we drive on is drachten
You can see a shot of the old car on youtube .
Sneaky tuning all motor hatch
Not the best run slicks to big but fun to watch.
I wanna go dart because the machine shops her are crappy .
Last year build a fuily build b16 turbo.
And my darton leeved block.had manny sadbacks.
2 times on dyno i had a dropt sleev so
I dont like sleeved engines annymore
Car would be build streetracing and track only
ENDYN = energy dynamics (so endyn dynamics kinda sounds too much) just playin LOL
good point... while ive no experience with dart blocks ive seen some odd porosity too personally (someone else's build i watched etc)
might be safer to go Benson or GE i believe GE sometimes carry some LS blocks already sleeved etc
good point... while ive no experience with dart blocks ive seen some odd porosity too personally (someone else's build i watched etc)
might be safer to go Benson or GE i believe GE sometimes carry some LS blocks already sleeved etc
GE blocks are strong yes, (I am building a seccond one now for street use) and it's a GE sleeved; the step deck and epoxied sleeves make ANY repairs a real hassle. Darton MID can be repaired very easily and has an excellet reputation.
OK, problem one with B20 blocks, the head gaskets don't match correctly.
GE blocks are strong yes, (I am building a seccond one now for street use) and it's a GE sleeved; the step deck and epoxied sleeves make ANY repairs a real hassle. Darton MID can be repaired very easily and has an excellet reputation.
GE blocks are strong yes, (I am building a seccond one now for street use) and it's a GE sleeved; the step deck and epoxied sleeves make ANY repairs a real hassle. Darton MID can be repaired very easily and has an excellet reputation.
i agree on all accounts bro...
the GE was a suggestion as step up from b20,
the Darton MID is a step up from GE LOL but yeah owner is in alot better situation
going with either or (the above) than a dart
we havnt had problems using the b20 (non b16a) gasket on b20vtec's
a couple of them road racing doing alot of laps not just 1/4 drags
but yeah.. they do require some work to get it right..
good point there btw i missed that out
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
igorka_91
Hybrid / Engine Swaps
2
Apr 19, 2010 03:24 PM



