Well i got the car back today with no problems..Alls i can say is that it IS faster, but not necessarily more fun...I have JRSC at 5.5 psi., Toda flywheel, Exedy clutch, Spoon 4-2-1, and a Carsound cat..My intake is basically just the stock filter without the box, and stock exhaust..The car has yet to be tuned but i know it has potential...Any suggestions? I'm basically on my own here because it seems that the only good information i ever get comes from this site...I know i need at least a Hondata to tune, but also exaust suggestions..The car feels quiet now without the AEM intake and no VTEC crossover ..Any help would be appreciated...And please, no "take that heat pump off" suggestions please.. ...thanx..

 

sounds like ur not impressed/ happy with the system.....

 

i know theres a couple of people running the JRSC on their R's on the board, and from what i remember they had a big headache gin through all the different things to really get good gains from it. i remember someone saying that their WHP dropped after just installing it. might want to ask them what they did to get it where it should be.

 

Sounds like you need tuning. AEM short ram and a good exhaust will help. Good luck.

 

Rboosted717 knows his **** when it comes down to the JRSC. Maybe you should read up on all his old threads and then shoot him an IM if you have any questions. I'm sure he'd be more than happy to help.

 

Sell it and go all motor thats what i did

 

I'd be willing to bet there are few people who have more experience with a JRSC'd ITR. My ITR had one when I bought it, with only 13k miles on it. with zero tuning it put down 196 whp. not too impressive considering the cost of the system. I was able to turn low 14s on nitto nt450s. I was very happy with the JRSC overall, especially since I had never driven a NA ITR. after about 6 months I was ready for more power. I upgraded to the 8 psi pulley kit, and laid down 219.6 whp, and 154.4 tq. my list of mods was relatively short: DC short ram intake, JRSC, JG cam gears, apex AFC (before the VAFC was out) Mugen Header, Mugen exhaust,(yes I had like $2000 in the header and exhaust).... the stock clutch couldnt even hold the 5.5 psi, so I installed a clutch masters clutch. It self destructed the first time I raced with the 8 psi kit on. I then upgraded to an ACT and I am still using that same clutch today. anyway, That was all I had done at the time. I ran several consecutive 13.0's at 105-106mph on M/T 22x8x15 slicks. It worked great for about 4 months, and then the problems began.... I could write page after page of all the problems I had with the JRSC. From my experience I can save you from some of the same pitfalls I ran into. First off, I had to replace my throttle cable no less than 8 times. I highly recommend buying an extra one and carrying it in the car. It will save you from a ruined weekend, when your 600 miles from home.....secondly, dont get on it whatsoever on a hot day. detonation is a bitch. third, get rid of that stupid alternator belt idler pulley. the bearings wont last. they WILL lock up, burning up your alternator belt and ruining yet another weekend. after replacing two idler pulleies I resorted to simply installing a tight fitting belt. this fix will last indefinitely. This also completely eliminated the need for a tensioner pulley, AND eliminated belt slipping. which leads me to the fifth thing. keep an extra blower belt handy too. they are a pain in the *** to get, and they break all the time. I replaced mine 5 times. thankfully the car still runs without the supercharger belt....LOL. with all that said, my advice would be to "set it and forget it" meaning: dyno tune it, and leave it alone. Anthing more than 8psi will just create more problems than anyone would care to deal with. the thermal efficiency is severely compromised and the JRSC turns into the aforementioned "heat pump". Some JRSC owners used the water injection system to offset the heat, but it cost HP. My solution worked much much better. If you are serious about getting power out of it, buy a nitrous kit. spray right through the SC, It works wonders, trust me. I was able to run 12.33 at 113 mph with just a 50 shot. At that point, I had also installed a MSD 6al, blaster coil, MSD pro cap, Magnecor 10mm race plug wires, ngk plugs(1 step colder than stock), Nuformz block guard, along with a gutted cat. I only used the nitrous on the track, since it was simply too much power on the street. I actually had trouble getting traction anywhere below 40 mph! The entire setup was installed in my '96 HB after someone rear ended the R. Eventually I got tired of replacing pistons, throttle cables, belts, oh and 3 axles that I broke as well.... I have since sold the SC, and removed the b18c5. I now have a potent LS/VTEC heavily modded, which (without nitrous) I would estimate puts out 90% of the power of the JRSC ITR with the 5.5 psi, with 0% of the problems. In summation, the best advice I could give you(besides going turbo) would be to get it right, and leave it alone.

 

Wow, i'm not even going to try to read that. Paragraphs would help a lot man.

 

it is a paragraph. a long one.

 

ditto. that was teh best thing i couldve done

 

yeah, maybe I should have mentioned that the guy from fast as knutz racing was just as fast as I was (without nitrous of course) and he is all motor....

 

Told you so..."*******".

I would put Altezzas and Monkey Barz in my R before I supercharged it. Not kidding.

 

Well if you like monkey bars and altezzas more than superchargers then good for you. To each his own I guess.

Jonas - who wouldn't mind 40 extra CARB certified horses throughout the RPM range

 

I have been thinking of JRSC'n my GSR for a long time, but I dont have the money, but when I do get the money I will get it, I think it is worth it!

 

What you said is that the car wouldn't be faster, which it is..and if you're ever in the NY area, drop me a line, so i can see if you'll call me ******* for the third time..This time face to face

 

heh heh.. you said.. *******. bwahaha. Whoops, off topic. Err,.. go turbo for FI. Although all the ITR people say go allmotor. Go whatever the hell you want. Makes it more fun for us allmotor people to beat you.

 

196whp is the most power I've ever heard of on an UNTUNED jrsc'd ITR.

I make 218whp with the 5.5psi pulley and basically the same mods that you had the 8psi pulley making 219whp. With your mods at 8psi, you should be able to hit 240-245whp.

As far as reliability, you may have had a lemon. For the years I've been a member of the FI integra board, I'm not familiar with recurring problems with the throttle cable or belts snapping. I'm not sure I understand what bearings you were burning out in the tensioner pulley. It's a molded plastic (formerly aluminum) wheel that spins freely on a flange bolt...what bearings? It's late and maybe I'm just not following what you're talking about.

Detonation is not an issue for me on 100+ degree HPDE weekends, my car is tuned fairly conservatively. From day 1, you should have been running 1 step colder plugs with the base 5.5psi kit, which explains why you had detonation problems. Tuning is everything.

 

yep,..I had no problems @ all w/ my JRSC on my 00 GSR-loved Redlining and just killin it all the time--Felt HUGE gains though,..then put on all 2 1/2 header an Exhaust/VAFC,Skunk2 gears,Racer X clutchmasters,...but then did the ultimate(that I might say is stupid but if you build it right will Destroy ALL!! )
I put a CRV crank pulley on my GSR and ran @ like 14 psi on stock bottom end,...HOLY CHIT!It was the fastest thing ever,..but only lasted 3 days---I could spin EVERY GEAr!SO I was racing a Hooked up Z28 blowing his doors off and then it happened,......Car hit 8k and cut off!
Well,.long story short,.Melted the pistons and cracked the block!
SO then I went LS/VTEC,..and thats where I started throwing blower belts,..good thing they do run when the belts not on like you said!!!

But over all,.I think GSR will have more gains the the R will "BLOWN",..ie.lower compression etc,..so I guess it would take some super Tuning for a R to be @ its best,...but good luck,..

 

put on your air box cover again

 

tune and dyno that baby!

 

stock boost, stock ECU with SAFC, intake, mugen exhaust system.

Same mods above minus tuned Hondata.

same as above minus 8psi boost, 3" thermal exhaust

(bottem-end left untuned due to traction issues. Currently the car is around 10whp above the plot above which is approx. 270whp. I will say this, the stock motor will not handle this much power no matter what tuning it has. The pisons, etc... are not designed to take this much beating over a long period of time, which is why I have lowered the power to 250whp or so to make the motor last longer. As for drag times, the car when it was at 2650lbs with driver and with 230whp ran a 12.5@110 with a 1.7 60ft with MT slicks on stock rims. We still havn't raced the car with 250whp, but we will soon.)

Any questions?

BTW- regarding the above large paragraph, so of that info is good and some is bad. IE: nitrous before the charger= cracked rotors per Eaton and Magnuson R&D tech info. Very hot rotors with sub-0 temps will warp the rotors. EX: take a very hot frying pan and dump ice cold water on it. Or put a cold baking pan into a hot oven and see what happenes.
Next, as for the idle pulley's, etc... just call JR and get the new style plastic ones vs. the old metal ones. If they lock up then you didn't do something right. I have never seen a idler pulley, etc... lock up on any of our JRSC cars.

Basically if you tune it right, your ok. I have tried everything and have raced it at the track and drag strip. No problems. Yes the throttle cable will break rarely, but thats only after a long time once it gets all worn down.


[Modified by Rboosted717, 11:29 AM 11/2/2002]

 

wow. awesome graphs rboosted. TUNING is key!!

 

Shaddup Mike. Showoff.

 

Thanks for the graphs RBoosted...looks nice..as far as putting the box back on over the filter, it won't fit under the hood...and why should that matter anyways?

 

Mike & Batouttahell

I dont really understand 90% of what that guy wrote either...pulleys freezing up? If your SC belt breaks that often, youre not tensioning it right. Id say 95% of those problems you wrote up there can be attributed to a bad installation.