Just picked up 4 NGK V-Power plugs, and would *like* to change my plugs.

I have previously changed plugs on some GM vehicles - a 2.8L V6, and a 4.3L V6. Had the extension sockets, and all. Still have the "spark plug socket," with the rubber O-boot. Question #1: Is this the same socket used to place over the Honda plugs?

... if it is, then I remember the rules: Cold engine, tighten to 1/4 turn past finger snug.. not sure if to use any "grease" or just pop the spark plug boot on, direct.

Advise me, please!

My mechanic wants "$20 or $30" to do it, but.. if it is as simple as I think it is.. but I want to check with the Honda community first. Maybe there are some things that I do not know.

I can post pics of the old plugs, too.

 

Quick, before someone get angry!!!
https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...sting-3002401/

 

Its a 5/8th socket

I dont do 1/2 past finger tight. You could blow off the plug cables. I slowly torque mine down til tight. Some anti seize on the threads isnt a bad idea.

 

 

Yeah, umm.... Wth. Here I am, with a Civic, - want to see pictures of it? Want to know if it is real? - and, while I get the useful information of the socket size.. the third post accuses trolling.

Any USEFUL replies, to my HONEST thread, and question?

Damn.

 

Thank you.

I found:

Thread topics that belong in the main forum
Seeking solutions to technical problems

Providing technical information of general interest

Not allowed:

Flaming
Moderators will not tolerate any flaming. This forum exists to assist members and to learn. If you have nothing constructive to say and have a rude disposition, then just don’t post. Let this serve as a warning. We wish this forum to be productive and welcoming to everyone. Members must not be afraid to ask questions here.

Reported. (Flaming.)

 

Is this neccessary with aluminum heads?

 

Not easy at all

It gets technical fast

 

To Norlael's defense, this

"For all technical questions, the following information MUST be included in the first post: vehicle (year, make, model) and engine (if not stock, year, make, model, OBD type). Other pertinent information includes check engine light (CEL) codes as well as engine modifications, such as a turbo kit tuned at 18 psi or a specific throttle body, large injectors, big cams, etc. This information is absolutely essential because, in many instances, members wishing to help in a thread waste their time by posting detailed replies, only to find out the next day that the topic starter left out CRITICAL information. Please respect members wishing to help by taking the time to list or mention crucial information about your car."
comes before flaming.......just sayin. As long as you have the right tools to do the job, it's real simple.

 

I can perhaps relate it to when I had my 2000 Volvo V70 XC.

To change the plugs.. I:

1. Disconnected negative battery cable. (?)
2. Removed spark plug wire boot.
3. Fitted the appropriate spark plug socket, in this case for the Honda seems to be 5/8th is what I got from this thread so far, onto the extension, to get it down to the plug.
4. Pushed onto top of plug.
5. Loosened, with ratchet.
6. Put on ground, and photographed, old plug.
7. Took out new plug.
8. Put old plug in the box of new plug.
9. Put new plug in extension, disconnected from socket.
10. Finger-tightened, into socket. Feeling for ANY resistance, to avoid cross-thread.
11. Tightened to "1/4 turn past snug."
12. Did this for all cylinders.
13. Started up, looked for bubbling, called it done.

Did I do this right?

 

Question Answered
/thread

 

OP you failed to provide care information even after reading some of the rules thread and quoting it.......

Your question is relatively simple to find information via google so many may believe it was a troll attempt.

Socket size you were given.

Anti-seize is always recommended even with aluminum heads, and instead of the quarter turn method (crush washer may throw that off some). torque them to 13 ft-lbs.