I failed worse than the first time. I have put about 1000 miles on since the first test. New plugs and fuel filter, already had new wires,cap and rotor.
I had just driven about 50 miles on the freeway. Smog guy said clean EGR and replace Cat and O2.
What do you guys think?

Any and all help is appreciated!

 

First question - when you put the key in and turn to ON (not start) does the check engine light come on?
I'm just checking to see if the light works or if it's burnt out.

What type of spark plugs did you install?
Hopefully you didn't put in any platinum tips. For some reason, they don't give off a very good spark in these engines.
Standard copper NGKs perform much better and cost much less.
You have high HC and CO which mean unburnt fuel.
This could be from the O2 sending bad readings, but it is usually from a bad ignition system or a dirty air filter.

If the O2 is many years old, then getting a new one is going to help.
Even if you aren't getting a check engine light, an O2 can get lazy and barely send signal to the ECU, but it's just enough to not trigger a check engine light.


When NO hits numbers that high, it's usually a bad cat.
You can got to an exhaust shop and have them test the cat - they do a temperature test on the inlet and outlet of the cat. You can probably search the internet and see what needs to happen.
Cats often die prematurely from a poorly running engine.
O2 sensor is a great start and, considering your HC.


EGR cleaning is always good to do. I try to clean mine out every time I change spark plugs. If you have never done this, then you really need to.
This will help bring down the HC number.



You should have a look at the PCV system while you are at it. Changing out the PCV valve is cheap and easy, but you should have a look at the inside of the tubing and make sure there are no cracks or leaks.

 

Thank you! I had never even thought about the pcv. Yes the cel does come on when I first turn the key. I put in NGK platinums (should I change them). I don't know the history on the car, I bought as a non runner about 2 months ago ( it had a broken can which took out the head). Cat has been changed at some point but I don't know when... I will change pcv and o2 and have the cat checked. When they check the cat do they just hit with an infared thermometer?

 

Exactly - they just shoot it with a thermometer at the inlet and then the outlet of the cat.
It should be about 150* hotter at the outlet.

When an engine runs rich for a long period of time (as you can see with your really high HC smog test result), it takes its toll on the catalytic converter. It actually makes the cat overheat and breaks down internally. The exhaust shop may bang on it with a hammer to listen to rattling. They may also remove the O2 and insert a gauge to test for excess back pressure. Both tests check to see if there is any thing is breaking apart and clogging inside.

Personally, I do not like any plug that has platinum. Bosch platinum makes me cringe with a tiny electrode. They do last longer, but copper is a much better conductor. The downside of copper is that it wears faster and they need to be changed out or regapped after about 20,000 miles. Platinum will last two or three times as longer, but offer the worst performance. Iridium plugs are a happy medium with good performance and good life, but they cost the most.

Also, when you test, make sure you get the cat nice and hot. Take a good drive and when you pull in for the test, leave the car idling. If you have to wait more than 5 minutes, go drive around the block a couple times and head back to the shop. Leaving it idle for too long isn't good.

 

those numbers failed badly. its not about your plugs.

follow the techs advice and replace cat and o2.

 

How would burning oil affect the numbers.. My pcv was bad and there was fresh oil in the runner when I changed it.. I haven't had a chance to get to the muffler shop but I measure my cat, after 45 miles down the freeway at 70-80 mph I had 425* at the front weld and 375* at the rear. I have not changed the o2 yet, I have it just haven't had time

 

With those numbers its most likely the cat. Try borrowing a friends cat. Converter. And yeah when smogging, don't let your car cool down, I let mine idle for like 15 mins at the smog shop before the guy started checking my car.

 

That is a bad cat.

 

What's the difference between an obd1 cat and obd2 cat? I know it's not going to be cheap, but I have decided to sell it once it smogs and found a new obd2 cat online for 90

 

OBD2 has an O2 sensor mounted after the cat and sometimes on the cat.
You will have put a bolt in that hole to plug it - I doubt the smog tech will care if they do a proper visual test and take a look under the car with a mirror.


In depth answer I found on internet

Pre-OBD Cats (OBD0)
Prior to computer controls, cars were often equipped with lead pellet-type cats. By the standards of the time, lead-pellet cats did an acceptable job but were quickly replaced by superior designs.

OBD-I Cats
The first computer-controlled cars used cats with a stainless-steel matrix and a more advanced wash-coat, enabling them to be higher-flowing and more efficient.

OBD-II Compliant Cats
Post-1996, cats must meet a strict set of government guidelines that dictate the type of materials used, the levels of emissions allowed and the rate at which catalyzation occurs.


Also, seeing how you are in California, there are special cats specifically for California smog. you should not use a universal cat as it will not meet Cali smog standards.
Cali cat will test with better results than a universal "49 state legal" cat.
Yes, they do cost a lot more.... several hundred more.
If your smog tech is doing their job, they will look be looking under the car for a CARB stamp on the cat.


As far as you buying and selling it (used) - don't get caught!

EPA considers it a violation of the policy to install a used converter from a salvage yard or sell it for reuse unless it has been properly tested and labeled. Similarly, it is a violation to install an untested used converter brought in by a customer, even if the customer insists that the used converter came off his/her vehicle.

Salvage or junk yards also would be considered liable for causing tampering if they sell converters that have not been tested or do not meet the requirements outlined in the policy and if the converters are subsequently installed by parties named in the Clean Air Act as prohibited from tampering.

 

Why would you sell the cat and put yourself right back in the same boat of failing smog again the next year?

 

lol sounds like you just wanna get rid of this car . dont have anybody with a good cat that'll just let you borrow it for a day ?

 

I meant sell the car not the cat. My car is welded in so if I'm going to go through the hassle of swapping it I would just leave it.. I drive 90 mikes a day and decided this is not the most comfortable car for that.