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I have a 2000 CRV with a B20Z2 (P75 head) that is leaking a large amount of oil when running. I believe it's coming from the cam seals because the oil is coming from the weep hole in the attached pic.
I replaced the seals with new high quality seals, pressed in tightly using a socket of appropriate size, and it is still leaking badly. Upon removing the valve cover and inspecting the seals I can see oil at the base of both the intake and exhaust cam seals.
Why are they leaking? Possibe reasons & repairs? I plan on borrowing a dial indicator to check cam shaft runout. What else should I check for or what else can I do to trouble shoot & diagnose?
Large amounts of oil coming from the area circled.
i remove the cam itself and cam caps ofcourse... install the seal on the cam (then install the camgear) and lay it on the head nicely and carefully.. then cam caps on,
pressing them in with a socket.. might have caused the ribbed section to catch the worn ridge on the cam.. maybe who knows
Its possible the spring came out on the inside of the seal, Your method of using a socket is fine in fact i rather do it this way then to pull all the cam caps ect. Although you don't need to i like to use a thin layer of honda bond around the seal and carefully slip it over the cam and make sure it goes on correct, then use the socket and carefully tap it in flush then wipe the access honda bond away leaving an extra seal from the honda bond. I don't like the aftermarket seals i opt to use OEM seals.
Its possible the spring came out on the inside of the seal, Your method of using a socket is fine in fact i rather do it this way then to pull all the cam caps ect. Although you don't need to i like to use a thin layer of honda bond around the seal and carefully slip it over the cam and make sure it goes on correct, then use the socket and carefully tap it in flush then wipe the access honda bond away leaving an extra seal from the honda bond. I don't like the aftermarket seals i opt to use OEM seals.
Is this the correct method to installing the cam seals ( cam gear side, not the cam cap ).
1. Take off valve cover etc. And take out Cyl #1 Spark plug, put a long screw driver.
2. Set at TDC, on harmonic balancer and the cam gears aligned.
3. Put a allen key or screw driver in the cam shaft itself to stop it from moving, is there a spot to do this? Someone told me to do this, never seen it myself.
4. Loosen Tensioner just a little bit.
5. Take off cam gear.
6. Take out old cam seal
7. Replace and then re-install.
If i loosen the tensioner, will the belt come off the actual crank gear at the bottom or will it get off track? I dont want to have to remove everything like im doing a timing belt job.
Last time i did it, i removed the caps ontop of the cam seal, then i reinstalled it that way, someone i was talking to said this is the wrong way, is that correct? Is the method above the correct way? And what if it still leakrs??
Is this the correct method to installing the cam seals ( cam gear side, not the cam cap ).
1. Take off valve cover etc. And take out Cyl #1 Spark plug, put a long screw driver.
2. Set at TDC, on harmonic balancer and the cam gears aligned.
3. Put a allen key or screw driver in the cam shaft itself to stop it from moving, is there a spot to do this? Someone told me to do this, never seen it myself.
4. Loosen Tensioner just a little bit.
5. Take off cam gear.
6. Take out old cam seal
7. Replace and then re-install.
If i loosen the tensioner, will the belt come off the actual crank gear at the bottom or will it get off track? I dont want to have to remove everything like im doing a timing belt job.
Last time i did it, i removed the caps ontop of the cam seal, then i reinstalled it that way, someone i was talking to said this is the wrong way, is that correct? Is the method above the correct way? And what if it still leakrs??
Well if you loosen the timing tensioner the belt will loose its slack and you might end up having to re set the belt. You can do it this way just make sure the belt slack is still good but if not just reset the belt its not that hard.You dont have to really move anything.
I have a b18c5 engine but im sure its just the same when it comes to those seals. I once just took the belt off by sliding it off the cam gears. Although i have this speacial tool i use to lock the cam gears it wont work on the LS or B20 motors so you will have to use a pin and lock the cams from up top on the cam rail, there should be a hole thats alighned to the cam hole. then take off the cam gears, its not recommended to use a impact gun on the cam gear bolts. I use a thin layer of honda bond, you get it from the honda dealer its what they use on the motors from the factories. Put a thin layer around the seal, if its the same seal make sure its still good and tap it in flush and wipe the access off, this will give it a extra seal just in case. Put the gears back on and this is the hard part you have to work the belt back on the edge of both cam gears evenly use a rubber mallet to help you tap the belt back on the gears.
Well if you loosen the timing tensioner the belt will loose its slack and you might end up having to re set the belt. You can do it this way just make sure the belt slack is still good but if not just reset the belt its not that hard.You dont have to really move anything.
I have a b18c5 engine but im sure its just the same when it comes to those seals. I once just took the belt off by sliding it off the cam gears. Although i have this speacial tool i use to lock the cam gears it wont work on the LS or B20 motors so you will have to use a pin and lock the cams from up top on the cam rail, there should be a hole thats alighned to the cam hole. then take off the cam gears, its not recommended to use a impact gun on the cam gear bolts. I use a thin layer of honda bond, you get it from the honda dealer its what they use on the motors from the factories. Put a thin layer around the seal, if its the same seal make sure its still good and tap it in flush and wipe the access off, this will give it a extra seal just in case. Put the gears back on and this is the hard part you have to work the belt back on the edge of both cam gears evenly use a rubber mallet to help you tap the belt back on the gears.
Sorry for noob question but... is it possible to reseat the belt with the lower timing cover still on? Or will i have to use a hangar or something of the sort
The belt just looses tension. Our engines have a spring loaded tensioner so you dont have to do amything except line up everything to tdc, slip the belt on the cam gears, and tension the belt. Double check timing and tension by hand rotating the engine ccw a couple times, then make sure the tensioner bolt is torqued to 40lbs
Pulled off the #1 intake cam cap (or whatever it's called). It's scored badly (see pic). The camshaft must be wobbling and hence the reason the seals dont seal. Time to find a gently used of reasonable priced remanufacured head.
Cant imagine a wobbly camshaft/bent camshaft. They usually like to break before they bend...
Possible those are not the original cam caps for that head?
It looks so much off. For it to have ground so much material off, something was really out of wack...
Yeah, something is really out of wack. Unfortunately, the history of this motor is all a mystery to me since I've only owned it 2 mo. and bought it knowing it was a "fixer-upper." I just didnt expect it to be this bad.
Here's a pic of the Intake cam (as it would be #1 TDC). Need any close ups?
Lobe height is spec'd at 33.716mm new. Does anyone know the service limits?
Lobes on this cam are: 1a&b=33.10, 2a=33.15 2b= 33.13, 3a=33.09, 3b=33.21, 4a=33.15 4b 33.13. 0.6mm seems like alot to me.
Diameter at dist end=26.94, TB end (meas 4 places) =26.93, 26.92, 26.94, 26.94.
The cam seal fits on very loosely and can be canted with no effort (see pic). Is that normal? What should end diameter be?
if by high quality you mean felpro then you need to ditch those damn seals.
notice how much smaller felpro seals are compared to oem
outside diameter:
Felpro: 43.05mm
JIC :43.15mm
Oem :43.25mm
stone/ishino:43.25mm
Why are my cam seals leaking?
Re: Why are my cam seals leaking?
