1992 Acura Integra with 105k miles on original unopened engine on a dynojet dyno.

* Stock ECU, stock cam timing, stock ignition timing
* Ebay true cold air intake w/ large AEM dryflow air filter
* CTR N1 pulley
* DC Sports header
* MandrelExhaustSystems DIY 2.25" kit with 2.25" collector flange into magnaflow glasspack and 4"x9" magnaflow oval muffler in stock location



The blue line is with stock ignition timing, the red line is with ignition timing fully retarded to stay under my class limits. The 148WHP really came as a surprise. I was expecting in the 130's...

 

 

What dyno were these numbers on?

 

 

Dyno numbers mean nothing. I put down 430HP 530Tq on a dyno jet and 362HP 462TQ on a Mustang Dyno

 

dynojet.

 

If a dyno is being "corrected" then they shouldnt differ very much under the same temprature and enviroment. There is always going to be some but it shouldnt be dramatic

 

Dynojet, makes sense. My rebuilt engine with 10.7:1 and stock intake mani, dc 4- 1, 3in exhaust, 7.5lb flywheel and aem cai is putting down about 160whp using a dynojet simulator (uses vehicle inputs and a datalog, converts to dynojet within a couple% accuracy)

My curve doesnt dip like yours but ive got a tune using s300 I made.

 

Thanks for sharing. Most of the time people say these engines with boltons end up in the high 120's and low 130's at the wheels. I'm fabbing a restrictor plate and going to advance the ignition timing slightly to promote torque and to drop a few horsepower.

 

stock'ish B18a/B18b engines make nice power and very usable daily power bands.

Seems like the Dyno is a bit generous on the #'s you are seeing but like any Dyno #'s they don't really mean a lot until you start using them for comparisons for actual gains/losses when changing parts, tunes, etc on the same Dyno with as close to the same conditions as possible.

We ran a B18a1 built to the SCCA ITA rules for years...basically they are OEM rebuild type engines with intake, header, exhaust and tunes and our good engines would make 142-146whp. I could take that same 142whp engine to 2 other dyno's in town and 1 will show me 148whp and the other one will show me 136whp so take the dyno #'s with a grain of salt.

A real tune will make a solid difference for you if you are really just running a stock, unmodified ECU.

 

 

A mustang dyno will give a more accurate reading of what its truly putting out since its an eddy current dyno vs an intertia based dyno like a dynojet.

That being said, the numbers are based off the stock 140hp crank figure released from when the car was new. At 140hp crank that puts it at about 120whp when it was new. Bolt ons may push it to the midto upper 130s but a real tune really can wake up the engine.

 

time slips can really tell the engines output