Alright so I have the QSD H2b in my car right now, jdm h22a.

I've been researching the G23 build for a while, and finally want to sink my teeth into it... I found a few links, mostly to PirateMcFred's threads, which he has subsequently deleted from this forum.

I understand what is needed as far as water pump, water pipe...

What I'm hazy on is, what are people doing to modify the oil return passages on the head? I've heard of welding them shut, then someone mentioned JB Welding some freeze plugs in there, or tapping the passages and putting a bolt in there. I'm not sure what the best procedure is...

I'll be using...
F23 block
F23 rods
ARP rod bolts
either oem K20 pistons, or some decent aftermarket ones if anyone can recommend an inexpensive set (relative to the K20 OEM ones)
some sort of aftermarket cams, stage 2

Not sure on valvetrain yet, that'll depend on the budget and if I go with oem cams or aftermarket.

I've already got a PLM Tri-Y and 3" thermal exhaust, 68mm TB, stock intake with butterflies removed.

Aiming for 220whp, would love to make 250whp but that'll depend on the tuners around here.

Anyways, if anyone on here has done this frankenstein build and wants to share some advice, I'm all ears (and eyes).

 

There is a new product Injector Nation is coming out with soon just for the H/F hybrid blocks. It's a plug kit that plugs the holes - no sealant required, just lube them up & press them in. Here's the link: H22 F22 F23 Hybrid Oil Plugs. Some people weld the holes up or tap for plugs. If you weld you have to resurface the head & pay someone to do it, and you likely have to pay someone to thread plugs in there since one will be 1/2" and the other 3/4" NPT. I know from experience 1/2" NPT sucks donkey d*** to do by hand, I can't imagine 3/4".

As far as the K20 pistons go, there shouldn't be any issues if the block cylinders check out. I explained a bunch of it in a post over on DSO: K20A pistons in F-series visuals

Another option you have is to use K20A3 rods and very high CR K20 pistons, which do come up for sale often enough. The down side is they're 2mm shorter, so your R/S goes down along with CR unless you use different pistons.

 

I am getting my EF shell ready for a motor and am wanting to build and install a G23 but was wondering about fitment. I've only seen one thread that went into detail and it says they had to tilt the motor forward due to the hood. I am wondering how true this is or if there are other ways to make it work like cutting some of the skeleton off the hood or something.