Hey everyone hope this is in the right area iam struggling with my 91 civic it burned oil real bad so I swapped in a jdm d15b vtec and now I get the car to fire but it dies right away if I give it throttle it seems like it makes it worse I have the jumper harness I wired the dizzy to the ecu as well as the injectors I grounded the 2 injectors to each ground on the stock 91 harness I have good spark but I'm not sure on the fuel aspect the fuel pump cycles every time I turn the key on sometimes when I start it will idle up to 1500 then die it will do tjat maybe 3 times then the next 3 times will fire and die immediately iam using a stock p28 obd1 ecu iam not sure what else to do frustrated right now any help would be greatly appreciated also I have a new tps I've messed around with that a little bit and I'm not sure if that is causing it I also swapped the right wire with the left wire on the tps as well

 

Also I used the 91 harness and I used the 91 o2 sensor not sure if that's an issue or not

 

What distributor are you using?
You must use and OBD1 (or OBD2) distributor with the OBD1 ECU.
OBD0 distributor is not compatible with OBD1.


What does that mean?
Each injector gets a separate ground that goes directly to the ECU.
All 4 injectors share a common power wire that goes to the main relay.

If the ECU looking for a 4 wire heated O2 sensor then why woudl you use a 1 wire sensor?


Are you really? You should try reading posts from people that don't use any punctuation whatsoever.


It's hard to follow your post.
I'm assuming you did a DPFI to MPFI conversion as well as OBD0 to OBD1.
That would be the only reason for swapping the TPS wires.
You didn't mention if you did the ECU connector repinning steps for converting to MPFI.

 

y yes I did the mpfi sorry for the punctuation I didn't know this was English class I'm just looking for help that's all. I didn't know I needed to use the 4 pin o2 sensor iam using the obd1 distributor as far as the injectors the old harness had 2 ground wires for the previous injectors so I took 2 injectors and grounded them there and did the same with the other injectors one of my friends who did the swap told me to do it that way could the o2 sensor be the problem you think? When I take the fuel rail off it has pressure when I take each injector out tho they seem very dirty I did my best to clean them up. I also tried the injectors out of my gsr and it didn't help at all. I poured gas down the cylinder holes and it ran until the gas ran out then died.

 

The o2 sensor that came out of the d15b engine only has 1 wire coming out of it?

 

Yes I think it is the factory o2 sensor it is bigger then normal

 

What are you? 10 years old?
It isn't English class, but if you want people to understand what you are talking about, then you should make an effort to communicate properly.
That's what they were teaching you in English class.
One sentence containing 196 words? Have fun flipping burgers for life... they won't even let you touch the menu.

Sounds like your injectors are the problem especially since you can pour gas in manually and it runs.
You can probably get it to run by shooting starting fluid into the intake manifold.

Like I explained to you before, the injectors do NOT get chassis grounded!
On each injector, one wire runs to a common power source on the main relay.
The other wire on each injector runs to it's own pin on the ECU.
The ECU supplies a ground signal that triggers the injector = fuel.

Here's a list of the pin functions on the ECU to help you wire them up properly.
You are to be concerened with A1, A2, A3, and A5.
http://technet.ff-squad.com/wiring.obd1.htm

The power wire is Yellow with a Black stripe and comes off the main relay. Your 2 DPFI injectors were connected to it.


Your P28 ECU requires a 4 wire O2 sensor to operate properly.

 

If your going to be a dick head I don't want your help I would rather have a car that doesn't run then to get bashed on about the punctuation. So if your going to help great if not don't comment. I didn't come on here to get bashed on. All I asked was for help is that to much to ask? Now that that's out of the way it's not grounded to the chassis I used the grounds from the stock injectors from the dual point

 

OK I believe I have them like that i will double check when i get home well thats how i have the power but the ground is like i said above. If that makes sense? Can i post pictures on here?

 

Wait a minute you said the yellow and black wire is power? Everyone of my 4 injectors has a yellow black wire I thought it was ground if it's power then I have it *** backwards

 

.

 

Also I forgot to say it seems like only 2 injectors are working. But when I turn the key on the all 4 have power to the same side of the plug.

 

Think that might be my problem I have all the yellow wire with a black stripe coming off the d15b rail going to ground but that doesn't make sense how come sometimes it will run for a split second then die if I have them hooked up backwards?

 

There really isn't a wrong or right wire on each injector.
You can hook them up "backwards".
All that matters is that one side gets power and the other gets a ground.

The heavy yellow/black wire at the firewall splits and hooks up to all 4 injectors supplying power when the key is turned.
The ECU sends a ground pulse when it's time to fire the injector.

If you confirm that you have it wired correctly, then you can test injectors individually.
If you can use a multimeter, the you can check resistance on each injector.

If you can't use a meter, then try a 9volt battery.
Unplug the injector and get fancy with some hook up wires.
Connect to the injector for a split second only!
You should hear the injector click.

If you remove the spark plugs and crank the engine for a few seconds (everything else hooked up) you should be able to smell gas in each cylinder.
If you only smell gas on certain cylinders, put working injectors in place of the non-working ones. For instance, you smell gas in cyl 1, but not 2. Swap injector 1 with inj 2.
Let all the gas evaporate and crank it again. Now, following the example, if cyl 2 smells, but not 1 the you have a bad injector. If cyl 2 still doesn't smell, and cly 1 still smells, then you have bad wiring.

 

I switched all the wires only thing I haven't done yet is ground them at the ecu I just grounded them to where I had them. Still does the same thing starts then dies I will run the grounds now and see if that helps

 

Ok thank you very much before when I had a tuned ecu for a turbo hooked up before I got my ecu each cylinder had gas coming out of it when I had the spark plugs out that was when I had it wired like I did before. that's why I don't understand now if you have spark and you have gas you would think it would run. The only thing I did different was wire in the vtec maybe I did that wrong I think I wired it into A8 and then the pressure switch to b5 if that is right?

 

Ok I did as ypu said took the spark plugs out cycled the key a few times and cranked it over. No gas shoots out of the spark plug holes and no cylinder smells like gas. Maybe a very faint smell. That's what I don't get when I first tried to start it for the very first time a couple weeks ago the plugs were soaking wet and now I can't get gas I don't understand it

 

it's at that point where I can't help any further.
I would need to see it =/

Maybe somebody else has something to suggest?!?!?

 

Dang I don't understand it. I'm sure it is something stupid that I'm not seeing it's getting fuel just not enough I can get it to start and idle a little bit then it will die. If I hold my hand over the throttle body it seems like it helps could the fuel pump be week? I mean it ran my old motor just fine. But this has more power would that matter? How about the fuel filter I used the 91 fuel filter but it is brand new? I checked the volts at the plugs that plug into the injectors and they are 11.6v. I'm not going to have any hair left pre soon! Also I tried injectors out of my gsr that I know work and it didn't change. I have tried 2 different ecus one is tuned for a turbo and one is stock. Seems like the turbo tuned ecu starts it alot better but still dies even when I give it throttle. Also if I hold it to the floor when it's running it sputters and the coughs back through the intake.

 

@4drEF, I commend you for your effort here. When I didn't see any punctuation in the first paragraph, my eyes just went cross eyed.

 

I'm not sure what causes this but when the fuel pump cycles at first the injectors spray fuel. It seems like it starts then runs on that fuel and then dies. then the fuel pump cycles again and it will start. then burn that fuel it's almost like once Its running the fuel injectors don't spray fuel. I just cranked it over and while cranking it over I had juice at all the injector plugs the volts were 1 between 8.3 and 9 volts 2 was between 10 and 11 3 was 9 .2volts and 4 was 10 volts also is there an easy way to check the fuel pump? Could that be causing the issue? Seems like when I take an injector plug off. It runs for a longer time. Runs rough bit still runs

 

My guess is that you get that initial burst of fuel when you turn the key to "ON" and the system primes.
When you actually start the car, the fuel ceases to flow - is this right?
That sounds like main relay, fuel pump wiring, or possibly distributor (you would get CEL for that).

 

Double check that you don't have your TPS and MAP sensor plugs switched. Swap those and see what happens.

 

Did you ever fix your wiring as in the diagram posted by 4drEF? your injectors are not going to work right until the wiring is fixed.

 

Yes iam getting a cel how do I read the on a 91 chassis also if the main relay was bad would the fuel pump still prime? How do I know if the distributor is right? I have spark at all the spark plugs. Fuel pump wiring is stock I ordered a new fuel pump so iam going to try that once.