90 accord h22a. If I pull the 3 motor mounts but leave the side trans mount will I be able to lower the engine enough to get the crank pulley off to change the timing belt? Do I need to pull the axels out to? Doing a kaizenspeed manual tensioner swap any tips would be appreciated.

 

also I just put this car back together last week after being apart in my barn for a few years. Did a m2s4,stage 3 clutch,rebuilt head,arp studs,ect,ect. Anywho theres a few nipples I cant remember what plugs into them from where. Theres the two on the throttle body in the first pic,above n to the right. Then the one on the coolant housing that bolts to the head by the bellhousing theres a little one I cant find a home for. Thanks

 

I have to disconnect the ac compressor bracket in order to allow the engine to drop down or it bottoms out against the front beam. Not sure why you would think you need to disconnect any other mount other than the driver side. Make sure to measure the tension before removing the belts. I havent installed the kaizen i just have the h23 conversion.

The top tb nipple takes the fuel evap hose. The rt side fitv nipple takes a hose from near the thermostat housing. I cant tell what that other pic is showing atm. It may be where that fitv hose goes.

 

so those two nipples probly connect via a hose then if ur saying it takes a hose from the thermostat housing? cause thats where the nipple is on the second pic. Thank you! yeah I dont really mess with hondas much so I just assumed but I took the one of like you said and got it low enough to get the pulley off and im installing it as we speak.

How tight does the intermediate shaft belt need to be and how do u even tighten it? it was pretty lose when i took it off it just slid off?

 

http://www.hondapartscheap.com/auto-...er-hose-3-scat

Part no.4

 

Thanks man awesome I appreciate it! I got it all back together and just started it a min ago, sounds pretty good, only ran it for a second cause it has no coolant in it cause I need to hook those nipples together, has a check engine light though, maybe cause no coolant?

 

check engine light still on, after it warms up for a second it wont idle if u give it a little throttle it will jump between 1500 and 2200 after that it smooths out and sounds good, would that be the TPS or a vacume leak of some kind?

the back coolant hose wont get warm even though the motors hot, thermostat not realeasing? after only a few minutes of running the car smells hot and the headers are hot enough to bubble water so I think its running lean maybe?
Idk any info on the above problems would be appreciated

 

Took it for a quick drive,pretty dang fast, back coolant hose still won't get very hot neither will the radiator cap and the car still smells really hot and to the touch seems unusally hot.temp gauge reads all right though but who knows if its accurate, any ideas?

 

Pull the code and get that hose from Honda and put some coolant in it. Report back.

 

I slapped a heater hose on there to connect the two, tried bleeding the system via the bleeder valve on the coolant housing but I cant get a steady stream, noting comes out at 1000-1500rpm and if I rev it up some will come out then sink back in?idk, back hose and radiator cap still dont get warm really at all but the motor and top hose get really hot? temp gauge reads normal but the head and valve cover are almost to hot to touch?

I'll pull the code today on the check engine light im hoping thats the cause of my lack of idle once its warmed up.

New dillema though, last night my alternator started smoking and was to hot to even touch? at the same time the temp gauge stopped working and the gas gauge shot up to full, car was also sluggish. Started it this morning and gauges went back to normal, its not smoking, kinda hot but not to bad and it appears to be charging properly. Should I wrap the header pipe right next to it with some header wrap? or is that to simple and the problem probably lies deeper?

this thing is giving me a headache

 

also the light weight flywheel I installed doesnt have timing marks? how do I go about timing it?

 

alright I pulled these codes, ive got a few extra plugs in my wiring harness for some reason that dont hav a home so I probly just hav stuff jumbled

6- engine coolant temp circuit, gauge works though so idk

12-EGR

17- vehicle speed sensor, is this even important besides making the odemeter work?

22-vtec oil pressure switch

 

alright messed around with some vacume lines on the egr and intake mani, car purrs like a kitten now but idle is jumpy when the heater is turned on and still throws all the same codes