I'm looking at going back through my motor this off-season for my autoX car. It was kind of a budget build when it went together early last year; OEM rings and bearings, a good valvejob, Supertech springs on OEM retainers, ARP rod bolts in stock rods (rehoned big end), PR3 pistons (11.5:1 CR with the head decked), Edlebrock 4730 cams, ITR rep manifold, PLM Toda-rep header. Only issue is I didn't use OEM valve stem seals and they leak down a bit.

Not that my budget is unlimited now, but if I go through it again I'd like to make 200+whp, 210 maybe, and still be usable midrange. I was thinking about an 82x89 setup on my current block, and my friend has a GSR head with a lot of port work he's not going to use now (someone wrecked his car it was going in), the S2 Ultra street IM, and a more aggressive cam choice. I realize I'd have to do some machining to get the oil squirters to clear the LS crank if I did an 89 stroke on my GSR. I would do some forged rods and something north of 12:1 CR. I figure the stroke and CR would add some torque.

It's also crossed my mind of just buying that head, bigger cams and the S2 intake (or another good one) and seeing what kind of power I can make from that.

I also considered a B20 block, but then I'd have to get the VTEC conversion kit, and my baffled oil pan won't work. Plus, I feel the GSR block is a better block.

Anywho, I'm open to suggestions, I've spent years building D's so this is my first B I've built, I'm going off research.

 

I would build that block like the first choice you stated,

"Not that my budget is unlimited now, but if I go through it again I'd like to make 200+whp, 210 maybe, and still be usable midrange. I was thinking about an 82x89 setup on my current block, and my friend has a GSR head with a lot of port work he's not going to use now (someone wrecked his car it was going in), the S2 Ultra street IM, and a more aggressive cam choice. I realize I'd have to do some machining to get the oil squirters to clear the LS crank if I did an 89 stroke on my GSR. I would do some forged rods and something north of 12:1 CR. I figure the stroke and CR would add some torque."

I would get that ported head from your friend, get that ultra street manifold, this manifold rocks! i felt so much of a difference just upgrading from the pro series to the ultra, its even better with a port job! i would use a set of buddy club spec 3+ cams, i made 216 hp with a mild built gsr setup years ago and it had awesome mid range from those cams!

 

I sold a guy my rocket M22X's for a 81.5x89mm build he had going on and he put down 215 to the wheels with a stock port head. I'll see if I can find his username on here and you can PM him about his setup. He was sub 200 on ITR cams. I told him my M22's would fit his build perfect and they did. He is more than happy with the results.

If you want to stay with a GSR block I would build it like this:

GSR block w/ LS crank & rods
ITR pistons
M22 or comparable cams
PerformerX or S2 ultra street
70mm TB

Those are all good parts for making 200+

 

I agree

 

Check this build out...VERY impressive

https://honda-tech.com/all-motor-nat...-dyno-3092090/

 

Also, throw a Toda header in the mix.

 

I know you like your b18c1, as do I. But a high comp. B20v with a ported GSR head would kill it in AutoX.

That's actually exactly what I am building. It'll be a basic b20v this year and hopefully next I'll go high comp and porting. Maybe e85 to boot.

The GE vtec kit is comprehensive and simple to peform. With the money you'd grt for your GSR block you'd be able to pick up the kit, a b20b and only have to worry about building it.

Just my .02

 

I'm kind of baffled about the idea of built motors for autocross. Stock motors or basic swaps do just fine, most consider it a waste or extremely low bang for the buck.

 

That's why I started with something simple like what's in there until i had the rest of the goods to match but now the car feels like it could handle the power. I upgraded to race valved Koni's, built a b16 trans with an mfactory metal plate diff and am in the process of fitting staggered wheels/tires for next season. I could go FI but I get 125lbs added to my weight minimum.

Thanks for the thoughts so far guys.

 

I had a fully built B20Vtec in my CRX for autocross 12.5:1 compression making around 250hp mated to a B16 tranny with Quaife and it's was a riot. Unfortunately that motor let go, so it will re-built. For the past couple of seasons I have run a B20Z with Crower 403's and I have to be honest the car feels almost as fast (if not as fast) at autox. Although it doesn't have the high end the Vtec had, it makes similar torque down low and dyno'ed at a healthly 178hp. It's very driveable.

Like I said, I will be re-building the B20Vtec, but I have little invested in the B20 and it's still competitive.

 

Yeah more power is always tempting and more fun but you can have too much for autox. Personally I think the new head with good cams the the ultra IM will get you over 200whp and be more usable in the autoX. Maybe I missed it but I assume you have a way to tune it, if not that would be a definate must no matter what you do. Plus that extra that you arent using on the block you could use towards chasis upgrades/stiffening or tires.

 

Yeah, I tune via Neptune. About the only one around here who knows how any who lol. I've got the chassis dialed in; Koni SPSS valved yellows, 550lb front springs, 650lb rear, ST rsb, HF fsb, Quaife quick rack, two sets of wheels for streets and r comps, mFactory diff.

I think you may be right about the power though. Plan to do the head, deck a few thou off it and maybe a thinner hg to get closer to 12:1, intake and tb before Christmas, then cams before season. That should suffice for a while and start building a b20 block on the side.

 

is e85 readily available in your area

if so, i'd bump the CR to 13+

 

Not really, 60+miles to the closest pump. Although, where I autox most of the time has a pump a few blocks away and I've considered it.

Off hand question, will stock retainers work with S2 Pro2's? I used supertech springs but stock retainers in my head, and I think the head my friend has is the same but the stiffer option Supertech's. I'll add their LMA's as well.

 

I wonder if that's where my issue is now...I've had issues with valve seals nearly since this motor was fresh in the car. My cams aren't that big, the Edlebrock 4730's (can't remember specs, but I think .498" lift on intake), but I wonder if I had some contact and that caused the issue.

Thanks for the part number, I'll give my local Honda parts man a ring tomorrow to check on getting me some.

 

In to see how this goes. I have a similar build in the works. I suggest the super tech springs and retainers. Ill be running their whole package. Great quality and affordable.

 

498 lift can cause ret-2-seal clearance problems

 

The intake cam is similar to pro1 the exhaust cam similar to a itr.
I would leave the bottom alone since you can reach your goal no problem on it.
For auto x you want the best powerband. Get a bigger intake cam(pro2) or custom cams (ddtech).
Aggressive port and valve job with flat valves if you want 12:1 comp. Better intake like a performer x or some itbs if budget allows. What exhaust setup do you have now?