Sticky caliper won't unstick (tried everything)
Hello I'm new here. and I've followed quite a bit of advice from here since I got a 1992 honda accord (about 3 months ago) So, thank you for that. but now I've run into something that I can't find on the boards so I signed up and here I am.
I have a 1992 Accord LX. (It does not have ABS) and now the passenger's side front caliper will not release. I've changed the rotor(both passenger and driver), the break lines (both passenger and driver), The break pads (both passenger and driver), The master cylinder and still no go. The thing stays clamped down
Does anybody have anything they can suggest as to why this is happening? Thank you in advance
I have a 1992 Accord LX. (It does not have ABS) and now the passenger's side front caliper will not release. I've changed the rotor(both passenger and driver), the break lines (both passenger and driver), The break pads (both passenger and driver), The master cylinder and still no go. The thing stays clamped down
Does anybody have anything they can suggest as to why this is happening? Thank you in advance
Perhaps because the caliper is new and never been driven on so how could it be seized? This caliper is doing exactly what the old caliper id doing. So im thinking its not the caliper since its new
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When you disconnect the brake line from the caliper, does the caliper release ? And did you replace the rubber brake line that supplies the caliper ? Sometimes it goes bad and acts as a one way check valve, locking up the caliper.
Does your brakes ever sink to the floor? My problem recently with my 1990 HONDA ACCORD LX I would get a sinking brake at random times until almost a year later it was at every stop then my front right caliper started to seize/stick replaced everything you did as well rotor, brake lines, calipers and OEM brake parts on both sides because eventually my left caliper started to seize also my fix was a new master cylinder and I haven't had any problems at all since not alot of people would believe a MC would do that but it fixed my problem. Oh and be sure to use OEM brake clips I had problems with the aftermarket ones that came with the caliper.
I have not disconnected the brake line from the caliper yet. I will be able to get to it tomorrow... What are my avenues? If i disconnect it and the caliper releases what is the possible problem? (Knowing all of the stuff i've already changed) If i disconnect it and it doesnt whats that suggest? Thank you for your help
Remove the caliper bolts and press the pedal again.
If the caliper releases then there is either a problem with the guides, cage, or caliper.
If the caliper sticks, unbolt the hose banjo fitting.
If the caliper still sticks then most likely there is a problem with the caliper seal, probably the seal was installed backwards. O-ring not only seals the piston to the caliper body, but also has a bit of a spring design into it to pull the piston back off the rotor when the pedal is released. If the seal is installed backwards it may cause the piston to stay pressed against the pad/rotor.
If the caliper releases there is most likely a problem upstream of the caliper.
Remove the brake hose and use an air compressor to verify free flow through the hose to and from the caliper.
If the caliper releases then there is either a problem with the guides, cage, or caliper.
If the caliper sticks, unbolt the hose banjo fitting.
If the caliper still sticks then most likely there is a problem with the caliper seal, probably the seal was installed backwards. O-ring not only seals the piston to the caliper body, but also has a bit of a spring design into it to pull the piston back off the rotor when the pedal is released. If the seal is installed backwards it may cause the piston to stay pressed against the pad/rotor.
If the caliper releases there is most likely a problem upstream of the caliper.
Remove the brake hose and use an air compressor to verify free flow through the hose to and from the caliper.
Remove the caliper bolts and press the pedal again.
If the caliper releases then there is either a problem with the guides, cage, or caliper.
If the caliper sticks, unbolt the hose banjo fitting.
If the caliper still sticks then most likely there is a problem with the caliper seal, probably the seal was installed backwards. O-ring not only seals the piston to the caliper body, but also has a bit of a spring design into it to pull the piston back off the rotor when the pedal is released. If the seal is installed backwards it may cause the piston to stay pressed against the pad/rotor.
If the caliper releases there is most likely a problem upstream of the caliper.
Remove the brake hose and use an air compressor to verify free flow through the hose to and from the caliper.
If the caliper releases then there is either a problem with the guides, cage, or caliper.
If the caliper sticks, unbolt the hose banjo fitting.
If the caliper still sticks then most likely there is a problem with the caliper seal, probably the seal was installed backwards. O-ring not only seals the piston to the caliper body, but also has a bit of a spring design into it to pull the piston back off the rotor when the pedal is released. If the seal is installed backwards it may cause the piston to stay pressed against the pad/rotor.
If the caliper releases there is most likely a problem upstream of the caliper.
Remove the brake hose and use an air compressor to verify free flow through the hose to and from the caliper.
Sorry! I just realized you changed your MC already. Also at the same time I changed my MC I changed my aftermarket brake parts clips/pins bought new from the Honda dealer put high temp brake grease on clips/pins too. I had a horrible brake click/shift with aftermarket brake clips too I would really suggest doing that as Hondas can be a picky car plus the clips were very loosely fitting that came with my new caliper compared them both side by side and there is different in dimensions and the way its shaped of sorts.
SOLVED
Mad Mike thank you very much for the pointers. While it wasn't anything specific you suggested it was the plan of attack that you suggested that helped solve it.
I'll skip through the dramatics and just tell you nothing was unsticking the caliper. Pulled the top slider it stayed stuck pulled the bottom slider and it popped loose. turns out only one side of the caliper was sticking. put the bottom slider back in and it locked up again. pulled it out and it unlocked again. long story short, had to add a washer to the bottom slider. for some reason once it goes in and tightens it acts like it's too long and it locks the caliper, but put a washer on it so it generates enough space and problem solved. Weird!!
So again, Thank you very much.
Mad Mike thank you very much for the pointers. While it wasn't anything specific you suggested it was the plan of attack that you suggested that helped solve it.
I'll skip through the dramatics and just tell you nothing was unsticking the caliper. Pulled the top slider it stayed stuck pulled the bottom slider and it popped loose. turns out only one side of the caliper was sticking. put the bottom slider back in and it locked up again. pulled it out and it unlocked again. long story short, had to add a washer to the bottom slider. for some reason once it goes in and tightens it acts like it's too long and it locks the caliper, but put a washer on it so it generates enough space and problem solved. Weird!!
So again, Thank you very much.
Your "fix" is what has us worried.
Take this how you will, having to add washers to the slide pins...that is not a fix and some where down the road I hope you don't get hurt.
I'm hoping that you live no where near me or my family so they will not be hurt.
When you replaced the caliper was it a "bare" caliper or a "bracketed caliper".
Bottom line, your fix is a "jerry rig" on a very, let me say it again - VERY - important system on the car. Not something you want to play with.
Take this how you will, having to add washers to the slide pins...that is not a fix and some where down the road I hope you don't get hurt.
I'm hoping that you live no where near me or my family so they will not be hurt.
When you replaced the caliper was it a "bare" caliper or a "bracketed caliper".
Bottom line, your fix is a "jerry rig" on a very, let me say it again - VERY - important system on the car. Not something you want to play with.
If the original caliper was sticking, and the new one is also sticking then it is not the caliper at fault. If the car was hit on that side the knuckle may be bent/tweaked or there may be rust buildup on the caliper cage mounting boss that is not allowing the caliper/caliper cage to stay square to the rotor.
Find out where the misalignment is and fix/replace the faulty component.
Use a straight edge and look for non-parallel mounting surfaces that may be causing binding on the caliper.
I thought the caliper cages used two different slider pins for top and bottom, but I may be thinking of a different car.
Taking pictures and posting them would aid in diagnosing the problem.
Find out where the misalignment is and fix/replace the faulty component.
Use a straight edge and look for non-parallel mounting surfaces that may be causing binding on the caliper.
I thought the caliper cages used two different slider pins for top and bottom, but I may be thinking of a different car.
Taking pictures and posting them would aid in diagnosing the problem.
If the original caliper was sticking, and the new one is also sticking then it is not the caliper at fault. If the car was hit on that side the knuckle may be bent/tweaked or there may be rust buildup on the caliper cage mounting boss that is not allowing the caliper/caliper cage to stay square to the rotor.
Find out where the misalignment is and fix/replace the faulty component.
Use a straight edge and look for non-parallel mounting surfaces that may be causing binding on the caliper.
I thought the caliper cages used two different slider pins for top and bottom, but I may be thinking of a different car.
Taking pictures and posting them would aid in diagnosing the problem.
Find out where the misalignment is and fix/replace the faulty component.
Use a straight edge and look for non-parallel mounting surfaces that may be causing binding on the caliper.
I thought the caliper cages used two different slider pins for top and bottom, but I may be thinking of a different car.
Taking pictures and posting them would aid in diagnosing the problem.
Just get another caliper from the junkyard, making sure to get either the Nissin or Akebono replacement. The Nissin calipers, provided you have one, will say Nissin, the Akebono's won't. You will need a 90-93 non wagon caliper of the same manufacturer.
Over time they just get corroded or worn down.
Over time they just get corroded or worn down.
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