So i went to the State Ref today. And i failed because of...
1)clear hose that was used for a vacuum hose
2) rpm needs to be at 750+/- 50 rpm
3) OF course high NOx which is my main concern.

I have a 95 GSR motor in a 94 civic vx chassis. Problems before was hesitation while accelerating but everything is working properly now or so i thought.

Of course, i did research regarding what may cause it. But i believe 3000 is WAYYYY too high. I got a used cat so it could probably be defective. My mechanic replaced the O2 sensor. You think a racing fuel pump will cause the fuel to be more lean? How about an aftermarket 2.5 axle-back exhaust? He said everything visually should be pretty good. What do you think the problem is?

 

NOx is caused by high combustion temperatures. Does your car run hot? Here's a link you might look at

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h56.pdf

 

Hey, appreciate the response. What do you mean by car runs hot? My temp gauge was staying in the middle. But what was weird is that it was going up very very slowly to the middle and i drove it to an hour to my ref station. Although, I do lose coolant in the reservoir tank but i don't see any apparent coolant leaks. You think it would have to do something with the ecu? Because i have never seen a NOx reading of 3412 and 2846 lol.

 

high combustion temps. High NOx is usually caused by a faulty EGR system, too far advanced timing, or lean conditions. I assume your car does not have a 3-way cat (3 way cats do CO2, CO, and NOx), so that is out of the case...

 

GSR's don't have EGR. Yes, of course we have 3 way cat converters but at those numbers, it's not the converter. Your numbers should be very near passing and the converter is just there as a band-aid.

Were the pistons ever changed? Increasing compression and then running regular octane will cause numbers like that.

Seafoam the engine. The combustion chambers are likely clogged with carbon deposits. Do it twice and see if you still get huge plumes of smoke the second time. Check your ignition timing. Maybe even set it to the retarded side of the spec (-2 degrees). Run 91 octane (93 if you can get it). You should be anyway with a B18C1. DON'T run that "guaranteed to pass" or anything like that. Have the injectors serviced and check the fuel pressure.

Never run a "high flow" cat. It's just a gimmick and most of them are crap, particularly the Magnaflow = Catco. You'll need a new one every year.

Your car will run much better after this. You're detonating right now and that's going to kill you in the long run.

 

Everything is stock and hasn't been changed. Only thing Im fully aware of that has changed would be injectors and all aftetmarket bolt on parts to stock. Although, I am planning to buy a new cat because I got one from craigslist but is OEM. So maybe that crapped out but I wanna be sure it isn't just the cat you know? The state ref said my timing was good and I always get 91. But I will seafoam before I go again. And probably, change the thermostat as well. Also, what brand would be good for an aftermarket cat? Specific link would honestly be great appreciate.

 

Thanks for the info! Sorry, I am still a newb to hondas, but I do know engines in general

I agree with Baller on running some seafoam to clear out carbon and check timing. Carbon deposits will soak up fuel and cause your car to run like poo poo especially on the NOx side.

P.S. I am picking up a 97 civic with a B18C ITR red top motor... I have to run 91? damnit! lol

 

Yeah I didn't think it was a high compression ratio. My 96 Trans AM WS6 is 10.5:1 so it needs 91+ or it pings like hell and pulls timing, bad for performance. From a quick google, B18C ITR is 11.1:1?!?!?!? damn! not gonna like boost if I ever go that route without lowering the CR.

Nice find on the seafoam. My uncle actually uses Techron at his garage. So I guess that is the good stuff.
also more on PEA... http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1865221

 

Of course. Performance motors take performance fuel.

At least you didn't post that "Seafoam blew up my engine" crap again That guy goes pretty science'y on it, but he doesn't really do a full "explanation" of what he's talking about, just a "believe me, I know what I'm saying". I'll have to look into it when I'm not at work, and when it isn't my birthday, and when I'm not planning on getting shitfaced shortly.

No. No. Just no. You don't need to lower your CR when boosting an ITR motor. This is Civic tech, so I'll resist the urge to go deeper into details, but you can read in the FI section if you're curious. I also went on a rant recently that's in the FI section, if you want to read that.

 

haha good to hear. thank you I like this forum already lol.

I'm too used to v8s where my 10.5:1 LT1 likes only about 8psi before stuff goes boom

 

The Seafoam obviously does something - I've heard more than a couple "horror stories" of people whose motors were on their last leg, and when they seafoamed it, it broke up gunk, but that gunk was holding the seals together. No more gunk, no more seals, engine takes a **** on you. That's actually where every "horror story" I've read comes from. It's always a seal, that Seafoam couldn't eat through on it's own if used properly. What you posted is a much more reasonable counter to Seafoam.

PSI means nothing. 8 PSI through a T15 wouldn't do much for a D or B series, and on its own probably wouldn't even be noticeable on a V8. 8 PSI through a GT60 would turn a D or B series into a paperweight (if you could get it to spool in the first place), and I don't know much about turbos with V8's, but it might actually be a halfway decent pairing. Point being, there's a LOT more to turbo choices than just how much pressure you want it to put out.

 

Interesting info about Seafoam. I've always taken it for granted because the spray can version works good for cleaning up **** (admittedly no better than any other throttle body cleaner) and because of my personal experience with it seems to support it.

Seafoam seems to work because the first time I use it on a car with high mileage, I get clouds of smoke. But every time after that I get very little. I've owned 14 Hondas and have fixed up many others for friends and family and this is always the case. It has helped me get many cars through smog and improve mileage, but I've never done any scientifically sound testing; isolating just the Seafoam treatment and keeping data before and after.

The thread about evil Seafoam blowing up the guy's motor speaks for itself. He dumped a ton of it in the oil and drove on it for a long time if I'm remembering correctly. Probably hydrolocked the cylinders with it as well. It read like he was trying to.

The guy in the bimmerforum thread claims to have evidence but presents none. Shame. Nevertheless, I'll give the Gumout a try. I'm always looking to improve my knowledge and find better products and procedures.

 

OP - What ECU? Is the ignition timing dead on?

 

P72 ecu. Yeah that's what the ref said to me.