I did a swap a couple of months ago but with my work schedule I really haven't had the time to figure out what the last few issues.

the car is a 1996 Accord LX that I swapped a F22B JDM motor into, when I purchased the car it had been sitting for 5yrs due to a blown head gasket & well the engine was completely ruined over that time of sitting. I swapped in the new engine & got everything wired up properly. I replaced the fuel pump in the tank & the filter, cleaned the complete EGR system, IAC along with the fuel rail & injectors. the plugs, wires, coil, distributor cap, & rotor button have all been replaced. the car will start but that is where it gets interesting.

as long as the car is idling above 1000 RPM's it seems to be fine, but as soon as it drops below that 1000 rpm's it runs like crap. to go along with this, if you put the car into drive & try & drive it it will stall. once you restart it it will idle fine until you drop it back in gear again then it will start the same thing over again. to me it acts like it is starving for fuel once it goes into gear but I am not totally sure. I have not tested the fuel pressure because honest I cannot for the life of me figure out where the hell the tester is supposed to be hooked up on the fuel rail.

guys I am at a total loss & could really use some advise here; rebuilding the engine in my Z06 Corvette was a hell of a lot simpler to me..LOL

 

BUMP & UPDATE:

I checked the fuel pressure yesterday & it read good at 50psi, along with that I was reading other threads that pointed along the lines of the EGR valve. I blocked of the EGR today completely removing it from the system so that pretty much rules it out.

I don't want to throw money at something when I don't know exactly what the problem is; when you step on the gas now it hesitates, sputters wont take the gas & finally stalls.

I need help trying to figure this out or if anyone has had this experience.

 

What are the colors of the three wires going to the MAP sensor?

 

Y/W, G/W, & W/Y; I know what you was thinking Lost & I have double & triple checked to insure that I didn't have the TPS wired into the Map Sensor. actually the TPS wire wont even reach up to the Map Sensor.


I did a balance test today with the fuel injectors to try & rule them out. I started the car & unhooked them one at a time to see if there was a difference in the running. of course there was so it leads me to believe those are all good.

now I do have a CEL, it is for the O2 sensor. my question is would the O2 sensor cause this problem? I mean I have googled & read where it could but I have never seen it actually happen. I think tomorrow I will go ahead & replace them both just to rule them out.

this is what I want to do with it though..

 

Is timing dead on? What timing belt did you use? Which ECU is in the car?

 

i havent changed the timing belt on it, i pulled the top cover & looked at it before i did the install & it was still in good shape. as far as the computer, i am still running the ECU that was in the car from the factory.


changed the upstream O2 sensor at lunch & did the Non Fouler on the downstream & now i have no more CEL. but the car is still doing the same thing. which is not taking gas when you step on the accelerator & eventually stalling from it.

 

so i just read this post on another forum as i was searching. if this is the case i have not done this & assuming it would cause some problems.

 

Is your F22B SOHC or DOHC? OBD1 or OBD2? I hate messing with cars that someone else has swapped stuff on, it's so hard to pinpoint exactly what was done. Which F22B is it? SOHC/VTEC? DOHC?

 

F22B SOHC OBD1

i'm the one that done the swap, i did it exactly like every thread i read about right down to wiring.

 

So non VTEC? You converted the wiring/car to obd1, correct? Which distributor are you using? Obd1 or obd2 ecu?

Sorry if it seems as though I'm asking a million questions, don't mean to pester, only to gain info to help figure out where your issue is.

 

oh you are not pestering, believe me I've been racking my brain & any help I can get I will take.

it is a Non VTEC, SOHC, F22B, the dizzy is what is funny. first I bought & F22 dizzy cap & noticed that something was wrong. turns out that the dizzy in the car is a B18 one. the cap & internal coil both are B18. the ECU is OBD2.


this is the link I used for the wiring.

https://honda-tech.com/honda-accord-...lease-2937506/

 

Get the correct distributor on the car. Are you running the OBD2 oil pump housing with the sensor or OBD1? If you're still on the factory installed ECU(OBD2), and everything else has been convertered to OBD1, you need to run the OBD1 ECU. I have one if you can't find anything locally.

 

well i thought the same thing when it came to the dizzy. that's what came on the engine when i purchased it from JDM Corp up in Dallas. i read that you can replace the F22 dizzy with the H23 since it is internal coil. if this is the case, i guess i will have to buy one off of Ebay, i dont remember seeing any at the junk yard last week.


i'm not running the OBD2 oil pump housing. i wired up CYP, CKP, & TDC using that link with the diagram i showed allevating having to swap out the oil pump housing & all crank position sensors.


as far as the ECU, won't i need a harness to go from the OBD2 wiring harness to the OBD1 ECU. if so, all of the harnesses i have found online are for manual transmissions & i have a automatic.


(i'm going to the junk yard at lunch so i will update with what i find.)


UPDATE:
ok so i struck out at the junk yard. so i'm gonna have to get a dizzy off of egay.

 

Oh, didn't see you were an automatic. You'd definitely need a jumper harness to go to OBD1, but being OBD2 and an automatic... you may be SOL trying to go OBD1. Your best bet was to convert the engine to OBD2. You may have to undo everything you've done to this point and go OBD2 on the engine to allow the engine/transmission to work in harmony. MAD_MIKE may have some more insight on the matter.

 

i've read threads where guys did this wiring it the same way i did, thats where i got the wiring diagram from & even the guys at JDM says its a pretty straight forward swap.

the car starts, has whats seems to be plenty of spark & idles fine until it warms up & then it just wont take the gas properly & thats where it dies & falls on its face.


and why not just get a jumper & rewire it to the way you need it. it cant be that difficult as long as you have the pin-outs for both the OBD1 & 2.

 

Go for it. I'm sure you could snag the correct ecu and TCU from an obd1 accord in the junkyard, and depending on how the wiring and TCU is set up, it may be a simple fix.

 

yea I went at lunch today & all the Honda's around here in the yards are pretty well picked clean. you said you had an ecu, pm me a price for it.

 

****, just realized it's for a manual OBD1 LX. Auto's would be different. I DO have an OBD1 Integra TCU from a 94-95, I think I've heard of people using those for OBD1 auto swaps.