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Hi I'm currently tearing apart my Honda civic SIR 2 with the b16. I raced it all summer bracket racing up here in Canada with some success. It was running 15.4's virtually stock with just exhaust and a short ram intake. I was happy with how consistent the car was running but I wanted to go faster. So over the winter I plan on pulling the motor and rebuild the engine for a turbo setup. I've thought about using a b18c block and my b16 head but I decided that I will just stick with my b16 block.
I pulled my motor over the weekend and started pulling the transmission off and the head apart
The sleeves are in good condition the block will be going to the machine shop for a hone and going to get the block hot tanked. My plan for the block is 9:1 compression pistons haven't decided on what brand and eagle connecting rods. I already have the turbo a garret gt3076r haven't decided on the manifold as my local shop has peak boost ram horn manifolds for a good price or the full race ram horn. As for head work I want to do The super tech valve springs and retainers I plan on running itr cams. This will be what keeps me busy over the winter time thanks .
Dont run 9:1, stay in the 10-11:1 range. There is no need to drop the compression to that point.
This post sums it up perfectly
Originally Posted by NotARacist
In non-forged (read: OEM) applications, lowering the compression ratio lowers the detonation threshold, making the car easier to tune. Easier to tune also translates to more reliable. Back in the 90s, when the best thing we had access to was stupid VAFCs and FMU hacks, low detonation thresholds were important - there was no fine tuning, so keeping the engine from detonating was very important. That is the ENTIRE purpose of lowing compression.
Today, we live in the age of this great thing called technology. There are plenty of engine management options that offer real-time logging, and fine tuning down to the hair, so you don't need low compression. in fact, you can RAISE compression, slap a turbo on there, and still make amazing power, especially with forged internals. The norm nowadays (at least, for people who aren't stuck in the 90's), is 10.5:1 or more. You still get the same final power, but you get a MUCH better powerband, because you actually have power outside of boost. When you lower your compression ratio, you lose power. Period. If you want a car that isn't a gutless piece of trash, that means you have to run a smaller turbo, so that a quicker spool can make up for the lack of power. A smaller turbo means a lower top-end. With the higher compression ratios allowed by better engine management options (and better fuel, too), you can get more power outside of boost, which means you can run a larger turbo that would kick in a little later, which means you can get more power in boost, too.
No problem. Try as I might, I couldn't get the point across as eloquently while still having that sardonic bite. Well worded - I think it might need a sticky
No problem. Try as I might, I couldn't get the point across as eloquently while still having that sardonic bite. Well worded - I think it might need a sticky
Thanks for the advice I've decided that I will go with the 10.5 pistons just not sure which brand torn between wiseco and cp. As for the lack of posting my neighbourhood is being struck hard by crime right now. An example is two days ago kids lite a fence on fire and then torched a car 5 blocks from my place and then tonight broke my fence stole a gas tank and tried to burn down my fence so ya bine worried about my stuff being stolen.
Sorry to hear about the crime. If you go with cp pistons you might want a bit extra ptw like maybe closer to .004 than .003 depending on the power you want to make.
A buddy of mine runs wiseco in his engines and hasn't had a problem so I will probaly go with them I just wanted to see what everyone had to say about the two. Thanks
For torque specs, just download the FSM for a 96-00 Civic. That'll include the 99-00 SI, which means the B16A2, which will have the numbers you need. The specs are spread out throughout the book, so I can't just post one page of it for you.
Wow I totally forgot I had started a thread! But over the past months I bought two motors one of which was a k24 from a tsx and another was a sleeved b18b block with a p8r head. At first when I bought the k24 I was going to swap that in but I didn't want to spend thousands of dollars just for all the parts to install it so that's when I bought the sleeved b18. The person who had the motor before me only made a handful of passes and only a couple runs on the dyno. He made 470hp at 20 psi and I'm more looking at pushing 16 psi and not sure what kind of fuel system I should run. I'm limited to shell 91 but I can get my hands on some c14 or c16. A fellow honda driver at my track runs a 1/4 c14 and 3/4 husky 94. Just want a couple opinion
Wow I totally forgot I had started a thread! But over the past months I bought two motors one of which was a k24 from a tsx and another was a sleeved b18b block with a p8r head. At first when I bought the k24 I was going to swap that in but I didn't want to spend thousands of dollars just for all the parts to install it so that's when I bought the sleeved b18. The person who had the motor before me only made a handful of passes and only a couple runs on the dyno. He made 470hp at 20 psi and I'm more looking at pushing 16 psi and not sure what kind of fuel system I should run. I'm limited to shell 91 but I can get my hands on some c14 or c16. A fellow honda driver at my track runs a 1/4 c14 and 3/4 husky 94. Just want a couple opinion
well if you can get that 94 octane you should be fine. 91 im not too sure depends on how well that motor flows (is it cammed), the exhaust manifold and turbine housing size to see if there is excess backpressure making the motor slightly more prone to knocking.
on 93 i think 400ish is the generic point of starting to think about higher octane. some people have gone 500ish hp on pump. i wouldnt. i stopped at 440whp no use loosing a motor for 20 more hp that i cant feel anyway cuz its spinning tires.
stock line and fuel pressure can handle sub 500 whp. some 880's and a walbro 255 will do the trick
well if you can get that 94 octane you should be fine. 91 im not too sure depends on how well that motor flows (is it cammed), the exhaust manifold and turbine housing size to see if there is excess backpressure making the motor slightly more prone to knocking.
on 93 i think 400ish is the generic point of starting to think about higher octane. some people have gone 500ish hp on pump. i wouldnt. i stopped at 440whp no use loosing a motor for 20 more hp that i cant feel anyway cuz its spinning tires.
stock line and fuel pressure can handle sub 500 whp. some 880's and a walbro 255 will do the trick
Yes the motor has crower 404's and I'm using a peakboost top mount and a victor x intake manifold
Does anyone have a spec sheet or can point me in the right direction for the torque specs for a b16 engine?
I got a lsv but it's sleeves to 81mm and compression is 11:3-1 this should give you an idea what your numbers will be. Car Tunned on 93 pump making 418whp and 312tq for DD, will retune for track before summer on race gas to 700hp
Drivetrain...
81.5 bore ls golden eagle sleeves
Srp b16 forged pistons
gsr block gurdle
Eagle rods
acl race bearings
new oil pump
port and polished b16 head
ferra valves
Brian crower springs n retainers
buddy club spec 3 cams
aem cam gears
Aem fuel rail
skunk 2 intake mani
880 cc precision injectors
Aeromotive 344 fuel pump
custom built FaceTunned ram horn header
precision 6266 turbo w ported housing and billed wheel
Precision 39mm waste gate
tial 50 mm bov
aem Tru boost controller
S/F oil catch can
Stage 5 unsprung competition clutch
gsr Trans
jdm009 first turbo build
