My water pump is leaking coolant and my timing belt looks pretty old. I have no AC or PS im assuming it will be easier because of that? Can someone give a quick guide on how to do it? Also what tools do I need? Thank you in advance.

 

Release tensioner bolt.
Remove post mount.
Put jack on oil pan
Take old belt off
Put new waterpump on(clean surfaces)
Put new belt on
Check timing
Be along your way

Thats the standard method lol.

 

Thank you for the reply do I need to put it in TDC

 

Yes! Step 7 is the most important step.

 

It's the correct way to properly seat the timing belt. Check the FAQ sticky on how to change the timing belt/water pump.

 

Not to cause waves here, but I would never use my oil pan as a jacking/support point. Better to use/rent/borrow an engine hoist and pick it from above. I've seen too many oil pans caved in from it being used as a support point (yes, even when a very broad pad was used to only contact the outer portions of the pan and not the center/bolt area). even a small concaving of that central area can affect the oil pickups ability to draw enough oil.

 

thats extra stuff in the way. a way to solve that problem is to get your jack, and put a decently sized square wood on the base. you arent jacking the motor until its highest, but to only keep it at oem height.

but i see what you are saying. mine has a small dent. i want to try hammering it out with a rubber mallet. my d16 had a decent dent right in the center, held up fine.

 

I agree it's extra stuff...theres no doubt. I just prefer a little more clutter to having to hammer out an oil pan and meesing with the gasket etc IF it does happen to dent.

That and I never want to hammer out my pan again...it's easy to pop out the exact center of that pan...but if youve got to work something out of one of the edges...no. fun. at. all.

Also a suggestion for you hammering yours out...leave that nice coating of oil after draining in it, as you should be moving your "punch/rod/thing youre hammering" as you hammer, to keep from rippling the dent and causing distortions that would form from just hitting one area. I suggest something like a 1-1/4 inch to 1-1/2 inch wooden dowl with a rag double layered folded over the end with a latex glove over the rag and taped to the dowel( it doesnt hurt to also round over the edges of the dowel ). The rag will slightly buffer the hardness of the wood, and the latex glove will allow the dowel end to slide easily over the oil coat. And your handy rubber mallet (tho i use a 10 oz. deadblow) and a sandbag under the pan. From there, I just hammer from the outer edge of the dent, tapping with a medium force, in a spiral towards the center, keeping the pan face as close to flat as I can, as I go...It's a bit of work, but worth the end result. You CAN use a hard flat surface under the pan, but your arm will tire faster from the rebound.

 

2x4 works all the time with a jackstand. If you're not using a nice flat surface to support the engine than yeah you're gonna dent the oil pan pretty bad.

 

I actually just checked, i dont have a dent lol. I cant imagine it being hard to hammer the dent out. The corners must be a pain!

Op better be soaking up all this info. Probably wont even do the job

 

you could just hold it at the gear box and engine point, just next to the oil pan...

 

Whoa, put jack on the oil pan?? I've done a couple of timing belts on civics and integras and I never had to support the engine when I unbolted the mount.

 

Well by doing it the way you stating, you're stretching your mounts. By keeping the motor align at all times while working on the timing belt keeps your mounts in excellent condition.

 

True..but timing belts are super easy in these cars that I can do them in 2 hours tops. So I can see if you let the motor hang for a weekend can wear mounts out. I think I did an Integra where the motor sagged a little and the holes didn't line up on the mount for the bolt. I just used my brute strength to pull it up and slide the bolt*through.