I'm trying to buid a h2b setup I have a qsd kit

Eagle rods
Mahle pistons
Bc springs & retainers
Bc stage 3 cams
Skunk 2 intake

I'm looking for some advice or some pointers on my build

 

Will you be boosting? What are your goals?..Track or street setup? Need more info man

 

Check the H2B stickies in the hybrid section, tons of information also search for the official h23vtec thread. Seems to be the best choice for forced induction and N/A.

 

I've got this swap in my Civic right now.

I didn't have to cut the frame rail, but you'll need to delete the balance shafts, and get the balance shaft pulley machined down into a spacer. the fitment is tight, i can't change my alternator belt without removing my driver side mount.

 

kiss

swap in a low milage stock jdm h23 , get it running right, then go from there

 

If you order the KStuned balance shaft eliminator kit it comes with a new spacer. Otherwise there is a a spacer in the h2b sticky that can be used.

H2B FAQ click here

H2B Discussion thread click here

 

I made a balance shaft delete for under $20.

The machine work for the balance shaft pulley, plus getting the crank pulley machined down into a single pulley, cost about $60.

It's a little more cost effective and functions the same.

There's a $20 balance shaft delete thread somewhere.

 

I have seen the $20 thread. Which crank pulley are you using? Any pictures of frame rail clearance? Are you using a kit?

 

There's an official H23vtec thread!?? *gasp*

 

Its in the prelude section.

H23 Vtec Thread

 

Huh....I looked for it and couldn't find it. Think I searched the wrong thing. I like that thread a lot, very handy. Saved it of course!

 

I feel the same. It seems like half the H2B'ers try this as their first swap and can't even get the simple stuff straight. Toss in a stock motor & build another on the side if possible.

If you are going NA, most people can get >250whp with a bone-stock bottom end. You definitely need to give more info on what car you have, what your goals are, etc.

 

I'm using the qsd kit. Innovative alternator relocation kit, h22 alternator w/ D series pulley




Accord f22 crank pulley machined, ac and ps removed



I also had a few mm taken off the crank side. It barely fits. I'm using the hardest urethane mounts from innovative so it hasn't rubbed the frame rail yet.

 

does the d series pulley on the H alt change the output of the alt at all?

 

I still get proper voltage at the battery while the car is running, so I don't think so.

 

Hmm, good to know. I should just measure the H23ABT alt pulley and my d series alt pulley just for poops.

 

Canadian- Thanks for the pictures.

 

They all look to be 60mm. I couldn't get right up to my D16 pulley, but the H23A and B18 pulleys I measured were 60mm. You have to get a good 25% undersize before voltage gets low at a normal idle.

 

Really? I JUST measured my H23A alt pulley, and it came in at 2 and 5/8".

My B18 alternator pulley came in at 2 and 3/8".

 

I see that you don't have the AL spacer that should be used when remove the balance shafts.

That is because you are usisng the alt relocator, or your pulley doesn't need it, or anything else?

 

Another question:

If you use the alt relocator it goes where the A/C compressor should, right?

What if I want to have A/C? Will be able to left alt and A/C where they should be from factory without having problems with belt or pulleys hitting the frame?

I am doing a 93 del Sol, EG, which have very similar (if not the same) engine bay of 92-95 civics and 94-01 integras. Want to have A/C. Please advice.

P.D.
Live in PR (caribbean) A/C is used all time of the year.

 

With the alternator relocation, the alternator is moved down to the AC spot, and moved over about a half inch to clear the frame rail. I do have a spacer, but it sits inside the pulley, so you don't really see it. Here is my spacer, pulley, post mount, and hood spacers.





The stock alternator bracket and alternator don't fit, the alternator pulley would be inside the headlight bracket if you did it this way. I don't know if anyone has AC and the H2b in an EF. That would be impressive to accomplish.

 

Thanks for your reply.

Will have make something to have both, H2B and A/C.

 

Does anyone have an H2B (EG, EK, EJ, EF, DC, EM1) without alternator relocation, or A/C on it?

Using QSD H2B kit.

Please post pics.

 

I've got AC.