What's up guys!

So finally got the turbo kit installed. Pfab kit with PTE5858 CEA turbo. I won't bother posting the dyno chart. Did some baseline pulls 313hp @ 7 psi. Turned up the boost to 10 and only gained 20 hp so we stopped.

On the way home I stepped on the gas read boost on the gauge no problem, but a short while later heard a clank. Pulled over, didn't see anything, car sounded fine. Little further down the road step on it again. No more boost! And the more I accelerated the turbo got louder. Got home, and this is what I found! Hope this video works.

https://flic.kr/p/oZN2ou

After removing the turbo, I found this fitting. Bought the turbo kit used. I should have inspected the turbo more thoroughly. Found this fitting. I think the turbo was lacking oil. No way this fitting could supply the oil it needed. What do you guys think? I think the fitting was added because the seals also appeared to be going bad. I'm sending the turbo to Precison so they can take a look at it, and tell me how much to rebuild it. In the meantime I ordered a Garrett gt3076r, which is the turbo I originally wanted. Was never comfortable with a BB turbo not running coolant lines. Seemed like underhood temps were extremely high. Perhaps it was because the turbo wasn't getting enough oil.

 

That turbo is fucked. That's precision turbos for you...

Bob turbos only require very little oil. Bb turbos are suppose to be ran with a .035 oil restrictor which is the size of a small needle. So it was probably geting more that enough oil.

Garrett and Borg Warner is the only way to go. You should have went with the gtx Garrett turbos.

 

Used turbo kit with little to no inspection done before installation, cmon.

 

I didn't take the darn thing apart man. It had no shaft play and ran fine for about a week. My only question was the restrictor. Never had to run a restrictor on previous turbos, but then again I've only ran garrett in the past with no issues. I know precision has had some issues but I thought they had corrected that.

Got a good deal on the kit so it sucks, but that's the risk you take on used parts. This is the first time I've ever had an issue with used parts.

 

journal bearing turbos need restrictors usually... it's all based on oil pressure.

 

All Garrett and precision turbos need restrictors especially ball bearing turbos. Ball bearing turbos need a .035 restrictors and non ball bearing turbos need a .065 restrictor.

 

I thought about the gtx, but I just couldn't justify the cost. This is a true street car, and RWD is no joke. It already breaks loose no problem.

I haven't had a turbo car since 2006, so correct me if I'm wrong but don't garrett BB turbos have the oil restrictor built in?

 

No, I have a GT3076R and you will have to buy a restrictor.

 

wow that Pte was sure polished!

Ashame you already ordered a new turbo nice choice though, the shodan could have got you a nice deal on a 3076 or possible a different turbo.

I to had my Pte fail on me( no as bad as yours mine just pissed oil out the hot side)

Good luck

 

Um yea I already know this... and by default they don't "need" one, it's all based on the maximum oil pressure the motor outputs. typically Hondas or any higher rpm motor need a restrictor since they require higher oil pressures as based on rpm (10psi for every 1,000RPM)

Also precision turbos are very picky about oil quality and cleanliness, most precision turbos fail as the result of feeding the turbo non-filtered oil from a location like the stock pressure sender port, they really need an inline filter.

the only person I know getting away with not using a filtered feed source is Tepid1 on his drag car that uses a precision turbo. although drag cars aren't typically operated long enough for that to be an issue. most of the failures from "dirty" oil are observed on regularly driven street cars, autox, and road course cars.

9 times out of 10 when precision diagnoses a failed CHRA they cite oil contamination from using a non-filtered oil supply and I'm willing to bet you a turbo that's what they say when they get yours, which means it won't be covered under whatever new turbo *warranty* they have.

what was causing early journal bearing PTE units to fail regardless of setup was a steel thrust bearing collar. these collars are typically brass which allows for much more efficient heat transfer and dissipation over steel units. the steel collars were absorbing large amounts of heat from the CHRA/shaft from exhaust gasses and the oil supply that the amount of heat being put into the collar couldn't be dissipated fast enough nor did it have anywhere to go.

this resulted in the collar physically blueing/heat checking as well as deforming and causing the thrust bearing assembly to prematurely fail.

I'm not sure why you bought another turbo and are still sending your old one back to precision. it's not like you're going to be swapping between turbos and the repair cost will be higher than the amount you can sell the turbo for. unless you just want to have a spare turbo laying around...

but running each turbo at the same pressure level will likely result in the tune being off since one turbo outputs a different airflow level at the same pressure level in addition to different response characteristics from whatever turbo the initial tune was one on.

when you get the 3076 on you will have to clean up and revise the tune

 

the fitting that you found in a industrial style air fitting used on air lines or tools...not related to turbo issue.

 

Yea why was there an air chuck quick release included at all?

 

I haven't sent it back, but I was thinking the cost would be less then what I could sell it for and make a little money, but from what your saying maybe not.

Will definitely go back to the dyno and tune with the gt3076r. It's the turbo I originally wanted so I can't wait to get it.

Question, in the past I always ran oil feed off a sandwich adaptor between the oil filter. Would that be considered a filtered source? And do you get more oil pressure there vs where the oil pressure sensor? Or same? Just a thought...

 

my motor is 100psi oil pressure at cold start idle and over 100psi in winter(gauge maxed out). No problem with garret turbo's 3an feed and good drain. Never seen smoke or burned oil.

 

The only filtered feed would be a sandwich plate that supplies oil from the center port of the plate. all other locations aren't filtered... and there's no pressure difference between locations, at least not when using a quality filter and the proper oil.

if precision doesn't warranty the unit, which is doubtful since it's a used 2nd hand unit, and it needs a new turbine shaft and/or compressor wheel it won't be cheap. at least not to the point of being able to sell it when you compare the cost to a new unit.

most people would spend the extra 50-100 dollars on a new unit over a used unit that's been rebuilt. before you send it to precision you need to call them and ask them what the wordt case cost would be and what the typical cost is and then check what they are selling for used (ebay is a good sampling of what people are willing to pay for something) and then use that to determine if it's worth the effort.

 

No they don't. You need to buy a .035 oil restrictor fitting for your new Garrett bb turbo.

 

Out of all of the products I've seen, golden eagle is the only one that offers a filtered sandwich.

 

Filterred oil to the turbo? Why would there all of the sudden be contaminants in your oil to even make it to your turbo unless you literally just poured in dirty oil and on first crank the debris in it went to the turbo... which you would obviously be filling with clean oil, which goes through the filter constantly and would have no debris in it...?

 

The oil can pick up debris as it flows back into the crankcase. the oil pump pickup screen only filters out particulates that are large enough to damage the pump.

the oil passages in your typical turbo are only about 2mm in diameter at most. over time stuff can accumulate in these passages and starve the bearing system of oil... seen it happen more than once.

 

ive seen a few filters clogged also. and if you have that much **** going on in your motor that its clogging a feed line you have other things to be worrying about. About that time for a overhaul

and correct me if im wrong but isnt the stock oil pressure sensor fitting filtered anyways

 

No. the pressure sender port is after the oil pump outlet and before the filter. therefore it's not filtered.

 

but no debris is going to be in your oil pan to be picked up in the first place

 

Glad this turned out to be a pretty good topic. You don't see this kind of action much anymore.

Thanks for your help everyone.

New turbo should be here this week and back to the Dyno. Made a few changes to help with cooling. Mishimoto radiator Mishimoto fans/shroud, and fan switch. Also adding Kenne Bell BAS to eliminate any ignition breakup. I'll post new #'s when I go back.

 

Heres the thing about oil contaminants. Its a mixture of dirt, carbon, soot, fuel, water, acids, metal dust, etc. The oil filter keeps that junk off your bearings, cams, rockers, etc. Areas where any contaminants can cause damage.

Now. Stuff that junk into a turbo with its small passages, one larger bit may stick somewhere and become a growth site. More garbage sticks to it and eventually you get an oil restriction. Or the junk gets into the bearing surfaces and scuff the bearings, damaging them.

You wouldnt run your car with no filtration, why would you run a turbo with no filtration?

 

the engine oil itself is filtered lol. Unless you are running some rare car with no oil filter