I had both clutch pedal pad stoppers on my 94 Civic break off within 3 months of each other. The pedal pad stopper for clutch switch B (cruise control) was easy to replace.

I'm having a hard time replacing the pedal pad stopper that acts upon the clutch interlock switch. I'm using a paper clip as a stop gap measure, but it occasionally falls out, even after using tape to try to secure the paper clip.

I don't have any real room to work under there. I put my head on the floor by the pedals but then I have a hard time trying to get my right arm up behind the pedal assembly. When I actually get my right hand up there I have no room to maneuver or get any kind of useful leverage.

Compounding the difficulty is the metal frame/box like structure covering the plunger and the hole at the end of the clutch pedal where the pedal pad stopper would go. I only have room to get one or two fingers in there. That's how tight it is. Even with one or two fingers in there I can't maneuver to even get to the hole.

 

there are no real tricks, you have too push out the old one and push in a new one

 

The old one already fell out. It's maneuvering the new one into the hole that's difficult due to the lack of space for my hand and arm.

I'm gonna remove the fusebox and give it another go tomorrow or this weekend.

 

Actually, i found that at most auto part stores there are those "fixit" part sections which have rubber "plugs". it just so happens that they carry a package of these plugs that mimic the honda stoppers to a "T" they are similar to THIS: Dorman Products - 45621 or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-MOPAR-GEN-USE-RUBBER-BUMPER-HEAD-1-2-OD-X-5-16-LONG-1-4-HOLE-ITEM-74002-/251510681470?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a8f346f7e&vxp=mtr or
http://www.pepboys.com/product/detai...nlyStore=false
however i found some that have a shallower head on them...same dimensions as the plastic honda plugs. the rubber is rather stiff so it doesnt deform from the switch, and it has the added benefit of not breaking down or shattering like the oem parts...check them out...

 

You can just jump the plug for a temp solution

 

Sorry for not being clear, was typing from my phone.

I am using a paper clip as a stop gap solution. I bought two pedal pad stoppers from the dealer ($3.28 each) and have already replaced the stopper for the cruise control clutch switch.

I'm just having a hard time getting the clutch interlock switch stopper into its hole.

 

okay...patience and perseverance. oh, and remove your drivers seat for better access. 4 bolts, tons more room. you can also drop the knee bolster plastic and steel brace...3 screws and 2 bolts. then unbolt the fuse block like you mentioned...unplugged or not, 2 bolts and/or many plugs. cant get too much more roomy without removing things that are not worth removing from there on. good luck.

EDIT: also, if you insist on using the oem plugs...i would recommend NOT using any petroleum based lubricant to ease insertion, it will eventually make the plug base brittle. you CAN however use something we all have in very ready supply...saliva. yum.

 

you can also use,um,personal lubricant, it wont rot the rubber like it won't rot the other kind of rubber, also works on putting AN fittings together, old trick

 

Also yes. IF you happen to have any just....laying around...

"I swear, that ID Glide isn't mine...it's my honda's!"

 

I build AN hoses for people sometimes, so I have an excuse to have the industrial stuff in the garage, **** star size bottle

 

Did not think of removing the seat. Good idea. I'll definitely give it a go this weekend as I prefer working during daylight instead of night time after work.

If they made the gap just a bit bigger I'd probably be able to put the pedal stopper in place. As it is it's just too tight and I can just barely get two fingers in there.

Thanks to everyone that replied.

 

There are a couple ways to do it. I didnt remove the seat, though I should have. One trick I have used that works is to use a little bit of electrical tape rolled on itself on the end of a screwdriver and then push the stopper onto it and then work it into the hole by guiding the flathead screw driver. The other was a little more time consuming, but somewhat more accurate. Take a piece a piece of 22 guage wire, loop it around the neck of the stopper, guide it into place and use a screwdriver to press down on the head of the stopper, from there you can slide off the wire.

 

I know this is an older post, but I found that the spring loader grabber and a flashlight that you dont have to hold (i.e. old HTC Incredible) will make this nearly impossible job possible. The grabber came with the mirror and screw magnet (not needed for this job). I was able to complete this job within 5 mins after trying w/o the grabber for about 45 mins. I didn't remove the seat, just threw my legs over the seat back with my back on the floor...and I was reasonably uncomfortable.. LOL. I also used a log flathead screwdriver to seat it properly, the grabber was a gift that I didn't open and found in a drawer...made it a easy job. 👍

 

How did you use the grabber to speed up the job? More details would help members interested in giving your method a try.

 

Kinda hard to explain that but its just time and patience while in an uncomfortable position. I didn't think that tool would help, but its worth a shot.

 

I ended up using the tape around the screwdriver method which was so much easier with much less if even any cussing on my part.

 

thanks to the tips I was able to repair one without removing anything. I found the top switch with my left index finger only. Now following that finger up with my right index finger I could feel the hole on the clutch pedal where the pad goes. I bought some rubber grommets from oreillys and punched a hole in a piece of tape and stuck the point through it then wrapped it around my right hand index finger and went back in and smashed it into the hole. It took 2 minutes. I just slid my finger out of the tape and left it up there. It hasn't interfered with anything.

 

Hey guys, I have a 96 honda civic hatchback that was originally auto trans, but I purchased it with a manual transmission already installed. I'm having trouble turning my car on sometimes and I already checked the battery, alternator, and starter. Do you guys think the clutch interlock switch can prevent the car from turning on because I have to reclutch several times for it to turn on. When I checked to see if it was broken it was actually missing with nothing where the interlock switch should be. sorry if this is the wrong place to post this but I have looked everywhere and can't seem to find a solution.

 

I put a little rtv gasket maker on my finger, stuck the the stopper to it and went in from the top. Let it dry for a couple min and you can feel your way right into the hole.

 

I realize that this is an old post. Just had to replace stopper on my son's 2002 Accord EX Coupe. I disconnected the wiring for clutch interlock and cruise control switches, disconnected clutch linkage to the pedal at the pedal. Push retaining pin up and then spread it out to clear the linkage pin. Remove the retaining pin, remove linkage pin. Remove two 12 mm nuts, remove one 12 mm bolt from metal frame that houses clutch pedal. Remove clutch pedal and metal housing. Install stopper. Reverse procedure to install. Took about 20 - 30 minutes.

 

Welcome to the board !!! That 30 minutes sounds about right for the process you chose... the screwdriver technique is what I commonly use and it takes like two minutes. Incidentally, the factory service manual outlines the process you used.

 

I had to do this 2 weekends ago, I took out the clutch pedal assembly and replace both with a round but flat screw, jb weld it on.

 

Well done MacGuyver.

 

Nice thread, I also have almost the same question

 

When my 1999 Accord wouldn't start recently, I found the telltale broken bits of the "crayon-tip" clutch interlock activation button on the floor under the pedals. Good news was that I had an extra from a previous Accord, but the bad news was its location as described in this thread.

I chose to remove the clutch pedal which involved just one bolt and juggling the master cylinder plunger and pedal return spring. This worked fairly well and I'd do it that way again if necessary.