I've looked around and haven't seen any realistic builds for what I'm looking for. So I have a few questions. First here are my goals and turbo parts so far. Looking for around 180whp w as minimal turbo lag and great torque curve, not looking to drag race or any of that, I'm into autox dragon runs and back roads.
Have a obd1 d15b vtec
Skunk2 intake manifold
Ls throttle body
Cast exhaust manifold
Garrett .42 ar t3
Tial wastegate
Tial Bov
H22 injectors
Fmic &piping
Walbro 255 pump

I'm unsure if I need upgraded map, bigger injectors than h22, head studs, and anything else u would recommend thanks in advance

 

Whats the h22 injector cc ? I dont know off hand. Head studs is always a good idea for extra insurance. Shodan can assist w/turbo selection. I feel like you may need more injector but i don't know the flow rate of h22 oem injectors off hand. In for info because i like small turbo builds that rip the rpm range!

 

There 345 if I'm not mistaken. And is that the only problem area u see? Do I need a 3 bar map?

 

Get some headstuds.
Now on map sensor, it depends on how small your t3 turbo is.
Imo youll probably need it for 200hp with a .43 a/r T3 turbo.
Injectors will probabaly be enough.
Use 2.5-3inch downpipe/exhaust also.It will help.

 

Check out my build in the random chat thread. I'm using a 18g on a b20b (9.6:1) with a gsr head.. compression is at 250 psi. I think with the gsr head I'm at 10.5:1 or a little higher

I make 1 psi at 2500rpm

8 psi at 4000 rpm vtec at 4800 so if I drop that lower I might make boost faster.

Haven't put it on an actual dyno but the virtual dyno shows 230whp and 180tq. I forgot the exact numbers. Its a really fun setup.

 

My goal is 180whp and I have a full 2.5" down pipe back w/o cat and nice mandrel bends. And I'm going to do head gasket water pump tensioner and head bolt when I actually put everything on. Buying turbo rebuild kit, boost controller and oil feed today.

 

^..head studs

 

head studs, rod bolts, staged clutch, boost controller

 

Ok so here is where I'm at currently
D15b vtec
Stage 3, 6 puck clutch
Fidanza flywheel 7lbs I think
Ls throttle body
Skunk2 intake mani
Ram horn manifold
T3 .48 turbo( the .44 was too bad to rebuild)
Tial wastegate
Tial Bov
3"down pipe
2.5" mandrel bends exhaust
Turbo xs boost controller
Z6 arp head studs(I hear I have to buy a b7 stud?????)
Cometic steel head gasket "z6"
Timing belt & water pump 95 vx
Oil feed and return
And of course I'll have it dyno tuned.
Build sound good to u? Lmk anything else and thanks for not bashing w the noob questions.

 

^ and the 345 cc injectors
Walbrol 255 pump

 

With that clutch and flywheel combination, you're going to hate your car at low load. Stick with the stock flywheel. That clutch is also complete overkill - you would be fine on an Exedy Racing stage 1, full faced clutch.

If you insist on using that flywheel and clutch setup, and need one...I'm speaking from experience, and selling mine.

 

i am going to second that, dont daily drive it with that clutch and flywheel, you will either light up the tires every stop or kill it if you try to daily it. and if you light up the Ts every stop you will blow your differential.
stock flywheel would be appropriate.

 

That does sound more aggressive of a clutch than you really need for 180whp daily driver.

I'm actually using a Exedy Stage 1 clutch with stock flywheel in my car, I'm pushing around 200whp. I built my car with daily driving in mind, as well as autoXing. Its very comfortable to drive around with, even in stop and go traffic. More than enough clutch to grab the 180whp you're looking to run.

 

Clutch is very overkill..

I can't tell you the number of Hondas I've seen puke OEM differentials from people running entirely more clutch than they need. mostly it was the bolt on NA crowd who insisted on revving out to the moon in every gear and power shifting no matter how they were driving.

when you upgrade things it can cause other things to break, namely OEM parts with a lower abuse/power limit. at least with a much milder clutch it would start to slip before you reached the failure limit of another driveline part.

if you were planning on making a lot more power down the road then I'd say get the stronger clutch... no one likes pulling a fwd transaxle more than they have to but with a stock sohc motor you'll reach the limits of literally every other part before you ran out of clutch.

also when the install instructions say it requires a 500 mile break in of normal driving belive it... I've seen a lot of people ignore that warning and murder an expensive clutch a week later because they couldn't follow directions.

 

I got that high of a clutch because it's a xtd it's equivalent to a exedy stage2 and the flywheel sucks in traffic but I rarely run into traffic so I'm not worried about that. Already have those installed and been running for a year fine.