How to install ac? (91 ef sedan dx)
Hi guys, yes I have searched before I created this thread. And yes I should go ahead and find an EF with AC and take all AC stuff from it and install it. But what exactly do I need. I will need a condenser, air dryer, and evaporator, and all the lines, and climate control. Does anyone have a pic to pic diy of this or a list of parts that can be interconnected from other models to make it work. Any help will be appreciated. I love my ef sedan but it's a dx so it does not have AC. All I want in this car is an AC and I will be able to use it for many many years. Any help to links and posts will be appreciated. Thanks for your time.
I just hooked mine up with AC, actually. Luckily, all EFs (too my knowledge) are pre-wired for AC! Mine was, at least.
I'll be vague on part names.
-Box from under the dash behind the glove box and the two brackets holding it on
-AC button from the climate control
-The (behind the front left headlight) dryer. It's a silver cylinder.
-Fan (Smaller one on the front right)
-The radiator looking thing in front of the radiator
-Compressor (front left side of the engine connected to a pulley)
-2 hoses leaving the firewall
-2 hoses leaving the compressor
-2 hoses leaving the dryer +1 in the bumper
-Last but not least, get the AC wire harness, it's what plugs into every AC component. Follow it from box you took out from under the dash, unplug it from the clip under the floor mats, unplug from the fuse box/ hard line/ fan/ (Be sure to take the boxes that are screwed right above the front right headlight, they are also connected to the AC harness) /and the compressor. Mostly all the AC system is connected to the AC harness. Just be sure not to cut it while uninstalling it. Might be a good idea to take it off first. I am not a master mechanic myself, but I did all of this this weekend and it ended up with holding a perfect vacuum.
OH! Be sure to go to autozone or something and get the green orings for r134 refrigerant. Don't use the old ones, r134 will eat them and your hard work will be for no reason. Also get retrofitting r12 to r134 fittings. They'll all be located together
Sorry this is a messy response, lol. Good luck!
I'll be vague on part names.
-Box from under the dash behind the glove box and the two brackets holding it on
-AC button from the climate control
-The (behind the front left headlight) dryer. It's a silver cylinder.
-Fan (Smaller one on the front right)
-The radiator looking thing in front of the radiator
-Compressor (front left side of the engine connected to a pulley)
-2 hoses leaving the firewall
-2 hoses leaving the compressor
-2 hoses leaving the dryer +1 in the bumper
-Last but not least, get the AC wire harness, it's what plugs into every AC component. Follow it from box you took out from under the dash, unplug it from the clip under the floor mats, unplug from the fuse box/ hard line/ fan/ (Be sure to take the boxes that are screwed right above the front right headlight, they are also connected to the AC harness) /and the compressor. Mostly all the AC system is connected to the AC harness. Just be sure not to cut it while uninstalling it. Might be a good idea to take it off first. I am not a master mechanic myself, but I did all of this this weekend and it ended up with holding a perfect vacuum.
OH! Be sure to go to autozone or something and get the green orings for r134 refrigerant. Don't use the old ones, r134 will eat them and your hard work will be for no reason. Also get retrofitting r12 to r134 fittings. They'll all be located together
Sorry this is a messy response, lol. Good luck!
OP if you want it done totally right I suggest sourcing some R12, which can be had for $25ish a can on eBay or CL, and you'll need about 3 cans IIRC.
If you live in a remotely hot part of the country I guarantee you will be severely disappointed with the r134a conversion especially if you drive the car daily and in city traffic.
I also HIGHLY SUGGEST getting a new evaporator and condenser. Both are nearly impossible to flush which makes used ones very difficult to use in terms of getting a proper oil level.
You should also absolutely get a new drier and might as well put in a new expansion valve while you're at it. You can get new evaporator, condenser, drier, and extension valve on Rock Auto right now for $150 shipped. Great deal and small price to pay for ultimate piece of mind and proper performance.
If you live in a remotely hot part of the country I guarantee you will be severely disappointed with the r134a conversion especially if you drive the car daily and in city traffic.
I also HIGHLY SUGGEST getting a new evaporator and condenser. Both are nearly impossible to flush which makes used ones very difficult to use in terms of getting a proper oil level.
You should also absolutely get a new drier and might as well put in a new expansion valve while you're at it. You can get new evaporator, condenser, drier, and extension valve on Rock Auto right now for $150 shipped. Great deal and small price to pay for ultimate piece of mind and proper performance.
Wow, I just checked prices on Rock Auto just to confirm my prior post and curiosity. Right now you can get all of the below for $248.82 SHIPPED (yours may vary a few dollars based on your shipping location) - also make sure to use the 5% discount code found easily via a Google search
NEW evaporator GPD Part # 4711461 $42.79
NEW condenser PRO Part # 7014236 $71.79
NEW expansion valve GPD Part # 3411287 $10.71
NEW drier GPD Part # 1411388 $7.40
NEW suction hose GPD Part # 4812411 $42.79
NEW discharge hose FOUR SEASONS Part # 56340 $48.79
Shipping (may vary a little bit from my location) $35.76
5% discount - $11.21
Total - $248.82
That's a crazy deal for $250! If at all possible, I highly suggest doing this.
When I rebuilt my system a few years back I bought everything new except for the Honda hard lines. Gives ultimate piece of mind for ultimate longevity and perhaps most importantly proper oil level for these fragile systems
NEW evaporator GPD Part # 4711461 $42.79
NEW condenser PRO Part # 7014236 $71.79
NEW expansion valve GPD Part # 3411287 $10.71
NEW drier GPD Part # 1411388 $7.40
NEW suction hose GPD Part # 4812411 $42.79
NEW discharge hose FOUR SEASONS Part # 56340 $48.79
Shipping (may vary a little bit from my location) $35.76
5% discount - $11.21
Total - $248.82
That's a crazy deal for $250! If at all possible, I highly suggest doing this.
When I rebuilt my system a few years back I bought everything new except for the Honda hard lines. Gives ultimate piece of mind for ultimate longevity and perhaps most importantly proper oil level for these fragile systems
I just hooked mine up with AC, actually. Luckily, all EFs (too my knowledge) are pre-wired for AC! Mine was, at least.
I'll be vague on part names.
-Box from under the dash behind the glove box and the two brackets holding it on
-AC button from the climate control
-The (behind the front left headlight) dryer. It's a silver cylinder.
-Fan (Smaller one on the front right)
-The radiator looking thing in front of the radiator
-Compressor (front left side of the engine connected to a pulley)
-2 hoses leaving the firewall
-2 hoses leaving the compressor
-2 hoses leaving the dryer +1 in the bumper
-Last but not least, get the AC wire harness, it's what plugs into every AC component. Follow it from box you took out from under the dash, unplug it from the clip under the floor mats, unplug from the fuse box/ hard line/ fan/ (Be sure to take the boxes that are screwed right above the front right headlight, they are also connected to the AC harness) /and the compressor. Mostly all the AC system is connected to the AC harness. Just be sure not to cut it while uninstalling it. Might be a good idea to take it off first. I am not a master mechanic myself, but I did all of this this weekend and it ended up with holding a perfect vacuum.
OH! Be sure to go to autozone or something and get the green orings for r134 refrigerant. Don't use the old ones, r134 will eat them and your hard work will be for no reason. Also get retrofitting r12 to r134 fittings. They'll all be located together
Sorry this is a messy response, lol. Good luck!
I'll be vague on part names.
-Box from under the dash behind the glove box and the two brackets holding it on
-AC button from the climate control
-The (behind the front left headlight) dryer. It's a silver cylinder.
-Fan (Smaller one on the front right)
-The radiator looking thing in front of the radiator
-Compressor (front left side of the engine connected to a pulley)
-2 hoses leaving the firewall
-2 hoses leaving the compressor
-2 hoses leaving the dryer +1 in the bumper
-Last but not least, get the AC wire harness, it's what plugs into every AC component. Follow it from box you took out from under the dash, unplug it from the clip under the floor mats, unplug from the fuse box/ hard line/ fan/ (Be sure to take the boxes that are screwed right above the front right headlight, they are also connected to the AC harness) /and the compressor. Mostly all the AC system is connected to the AC harness. Just be sure not to cut it while uninstalling it. Might be a good idea to take it off first. I am not a master mechanic myself, but I did all of this this weekend and it ended up with holding a perfect vacuum.
OH! Be sure to go to autozone or something and get the green orings for r134 refrigerant. Don't use the old ones, r134 will eat them and your hard work will be for no reason. Also get retrofitting r12 to r134 fittings. They'll all be located together
Sorry this is a messy response, lol. Good luck!
OP if you want it done totally right I suggest sourcing some R12, which can be had for $25ish a can on eBay or CL, and you'll need about 3 cans IIRC.
If you live in a remotely hot part of the country I guarantee you will be severely disappointed with the r134a conversion especially if you drive the car daily and in city traffic.
I also HIGHLY SUGGEST getting a new evaporator and condenser. Both are nearly impossible to flush which makes used ones very difficult to use in terms of getting a proper oil level.
You should also absolutely get a new drier and might as well put in a new expansion valve while you're at it. You can get new evaporator, condenser, drier, and extension valve on Rock Auto right now for $150 shipped. Great deal and small price to pay for ultimate piece of mind and proper performance.
If you live in a remotely hot part of the country I guarantee you will be severely disappointed with the r134a conversion especially if you drive the car daily and in city traffic.
I also HIGHLY SUGGEST getting a new evaporator and condenser. Both are nearly impossible to flush which makes used ones very difficult to use in terms of getting a proper oil level.
You should also absolutely get a new drier and might as well put in a new expansion valve while you're at it. You can get new evaporator, condenser, drier, and extension valve on Rock Auto right now for $150 shipped. Great deal and small price to pay for ultimate piece of mind and proper performance.
Wow, I just checked prices on Rock Auto just to confirm my prior post and curiosity. Right now you can get all of the below for $248.82 SHIPPED (yours may vary a few dollars based on your shipping location) - also make sure to use the 5% discount code found easily via a Google search
NEW evaporator GPD Part # 4711461 $42.79
NEW condenser PRO Part # 7014236 $71.79
NEW expansion valve GPD Part # 3411287 $10.71
NEW drier GPD Part # 1411388 $7.40
NEW suction hose GPD Part # 4812411 $42.79
NEW discharge hose FOUR SEASONS Part # 56340 $48.79
Shipping (may vary a little bit from my location) $35.76
5% discount - $11.21
Total - $248.82
That's a crazy deal for $250! If at all possible, I highly suggest doing this.
When I rebuilt my system a few years back I bought everything new except for the Honda hard lines. Gives ultimate piece of mind for ultimate longevity and perhaps most importantly proper oil level for these fragile systems
NEW evaporator GPD Part # 4711461 $42.79
NEW condenser PRO Part # 7014236 $71.79
NEW expansion valve GPD Part # 3411287 $10.71
NEW drier GPD Part # 1411388 $7.40
NEW suction hose GPD Part # 4812411 $42.79
NEW discharge hose FOUR SEASONS Part # 56340 $48.79
Shipping (may vary a little bit from my location) $35.76
5% discount - $11.21
Total - $248.82
That's a crazy deal for $250! If at all possible, I highly suggest doing this.
When I rebuilt my system a few years back I bought everything new except for the Honda hard lines. Gives ultimate piece of mind for ultimate longevity and perhaps most importantly proper oil level for these fragile systems
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Great list, but you are missing the compressor, bracket, and hard lines on the car. Also, the a/c harness is separate at least on the crx. You will still need a donor car, but things like the drier and condenser should definitely be bought new. Once you have everything, the install is very straightforward.
Actually, if it were me, my compressor would be new, too (and mine is).
Sanden TR70's are notorious for seal failures/leaking and even finding parts to rebuild them yourself is difficult as many A/C supply companies simply don't even carry any parts for them specifically because they're notorious for repeated failures. I had a rebuilt Four Seasons compressor that came with a 2 year warranty and of course started leaking JUST after 2 years. Prior to that I had one of the generic eBay $150 rebuilds that started leaking after not even 6 months.
I now have a brand new Sanden TR70. I am slightly skeptical that it's a very very well done new clone seeing as they've been discontinued by Sanden for some time but even at that it should be better than my TR70 rebuild experiences.
That is not the drier or the compressor.
The black canister is the charcoal/purge canister and the other one is the power steering pump.
The compressor should be under the power steering pump and the drier should be under the coolant overflow tank.
BUT - what are these pictures from? The donor car? I actually don't even see A/C lines in that car. On a side note though, that car looks to be in great shape, is it at a JY or what?
The black canister is the charcoal/purge canister and the other one is the power steering pump.
The compressor should be under the power steering pump and the drier should be under the coolant overflow tank.
BUT - what are these pictures from? The donor car? I actually don't even see A/C lines in that car. On a side note though, that car looks to be in great shape, is it at a JY or what?
That is not the drier or the compressor.
The black canister is the charcoal/purge canister and the other one is the power steering pump.
The compressor should be under the power steering pump and the drier should be under the coolant overflow tank.
BUT - what are these pictures from? The donor car? I actually don't even see A/C lines in that car. On a side note though, that car looks to be in great shape, is it at a JY or what?
The black canister is the charcoal/purge canister and the other one is the power steering pump.
The compressor should be under the power steering pump and the drier should be under the coolant overflow tank.
BUT - what are these pictures from? The donor car? I actually don't even see A/C lines in that car. On a side note though, that car looks to be in great shape, is it at a JY or what?
This is pictures of my own car. It had only 34k miles on it haha.
Oh I'm confused then. Were you joking when asking if that was the compressor and drier since it being your own car you knew it didn't have AC?
Got any other pictures of your car? Where in the world did you find an EF with only 34k miles?
Got any other pictures of your car? Where in the world did you find an EF with only 34k miles?
I found the car a year ar ago with 8k miles on it on Craigslist!
Or you can do what I'm doing which is basically trying to get my EF system as close as possible to a "real" EG R134a system by using custom lines, parallel flow condenser and the Sanden TRS090 compressor. Unlike the EF Sanden TR70 the Sanden TRS090 was originally designed for R134a and a brand NEW ORIGINAL Sanden can be had for about $225.00 instead of experimenting with reman and cheap copies. Although verifying an original has proven a little tough but I have located them. The model number is Sanden 4993. I have not completed this yet but have almost all the parts.
Or you can do what I'm doing which is basically trying to get my EF system as close as possible to a "real" EG R134a system by using custom lines, parallel flow condenser and the Sanden TRS090 compressor. Unlike the EF Sanden TR70 the Sanden TRS090 was originally designed for R134a and a brand NEW ORIGINAL Sanden can be had for about $225.00 instead of experimenting with reman and cheap copies. Although verifying an original has proven a little tough but I have located them. The model number is Sanden 4993. I have not completed this yet but have almost all the parts.
You can follow my a/c build here. Again, all I have done so far is collect most of the parts. That Sanden 4993 is on backorder from the place I'm buying it but should be in in the coming weeks. Once I have it I will start a detailed install with pics etc. Feel free ti ignore the fisrt few posts of my thread as I was kind of on a goose chase with some incorrect infomation given to me by Sanden.
https://honda-tech.com/honda-crx-ef-...r-crx-3214534/
https://honda-tech.com/honda-crx-ef-...r-crx-3214534/
The best way to install ac unit is to hire a contractor and ask them to install it. They can install it perfectly without causing any damage to any part !!
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