evans tuning, cam installation method
Hey ht, I was wondering on other members takes on evans tuning method installation of cams, basically he just slips in new cams without adjusting the tension or anything. but my questoin is when you remove the cams doesnt the tension in the belt get released and then you have ti readjust everything?
Hers a video toshow what im talking about
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uy_uR-UoUVQ
I need to install new oil seals, and id rather do it myself
Hers a video toshow what im talking about
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uy_uR-UoUVQ
I need to install new oil seals, and id rather do it myself
Honda-Tech Member

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,957
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From: nothing is real unless it is observed
Not typically what is done, but the guy has likely done it more times than anyone who will comment on here.
The belt tension will not change with new cams but the valve lash will in most situations.
The belt tension will not change with new cams but the valve lash will in most situations.
In a normal instance if just working on the front of the engine tension would have to be released to do anything. If the camshafts are the only thing needing to be removed then the tension on the timing belt can be released by removing the cam caps. This is where the issue could possibly come in...
When you do that (especially without loosening the rockers) at some point in removing and installing the cam caps there will be a greater load on one section of the not fully supported camshaft. When everything is backed off, you can easily gradually unload the camshaft without risk of potentially breaking or bending it (within reason of course). Given, the chances of that are slim to none, but if you have my luck - you know those odds are already not in your favor.
I have done that method one time and one time only. It made me way to uncomfortable watching the cam spring up and having to be held back down to get a cap started. No thanks. Tensioning the timing belt is VERY straight forward and really is only one extra step being that you still have to align the cams in the correct teeth and in correlation to the crankshaft / TDC.
After everything is back together properly and mechanically timed do this: Back off tensioner bolt until you can move the the tensioner freely (no more than 1.5 to 2 turns usually). Less is better here. Rotate crankshaft CCW at least 3 teeth. Retighten tensioner bolt and torque to spec. Turn engine over back to cam and crank at TDC marks to verify everything is aligned properly. It is really that simple haha.
When you do that (especially without loosening the rockers) at some point in removing and installing the cam caps there will be a greater load on one section of the not fully supported camshaft. When everything is backed off, you can easily gradually unload the camshaft without risk of potentially breaking or bending it (within reason of course). Given, the chances of that are slim to none, but if you have my luck - you know those odds are already not in your favor.
I have done that method one time and one time only. It made me way to uncomfortable watching the cam spring up and having to be held back down to get a cap started. No thanks. Tensioning the timing belt is VERY straight forward and really is only one extra step being that you still have to align the cams in the correct teeth and in correlation to the crankshaft / TDC.
After everything is back together properly and mechanically timed do this: Back off tensioner bolt until you can move the the tensioner freely (no more than 1.5 to 2 turns usually). Less is better here. Rotate crankshaft CCW at least 3 teeth. Retighten tensioner bolt and torque to spec. Turn engine over back to cam and crank at TDC marks to verify everything is aligned properly. It is really that simple haha.
I have done that method one time and one time only. It made me way to uncomfortable watching the cam spring up and having to be held back down to get a cap started. No thanks. Tensioning the timing belt is VERY straight forward and really is only one extra step being that you still have to align the cams in the correct teeth and in correlation to the crankshaft / TDC.
After everything is back together properly and mechanically timed do this: Back off tensioner bolt until you can move the the tensioner freely (no more than 1.5 to 2 turns usually). Less is better here. Rotate crankshaft CCW at least 3 teeth. Retighten tensioner bolt and torque to spec. Turn engine over back to cam and crank at TDC marks to verify everything is aligned properly. It is really that simple haha.
After everything is back together properly and mechanically timed do this: Back off tensioner bolt until you can move the the tensioner freely (no more than 1.5 to 2 turns usually). Less is better here. Rotate crankshaft CCW at least 3 teeth. Retighten tensioner bolt and torque to spec. Turn engine over back to cam and crank at TDC marks to verify everything is aligned properly. It is really that simple haha.
I'm gonna start it like the way evans tuning does it, then when I can fix the cam seal problem I'll decide what to do.
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Btw if anyone has seen how fragile cams are in terms of bending (dropping them can shatter them) youll cringe and vomit as you force the cams down to put the caps on. Cams are brittle. Brittle metals do not enjoy being bent. Cams are strong in terms of torsion and compression forces that are exerted on the lobes, but are like glass under flexing forces
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