Long story short.

• Came back from a 9 month deployment.
• Drove my caR, thats been stored for 11 months, didn't drive it too hard.
• Drove my girlfriend to the airport, heard rattling in the engine bay pulled over and found my P/S belt ripped and the tensioner pulley offset. and stupid of me, i still drove it for another ~50 miles, made it back home though.
• Found that the tensioner pulley pin fell out, gouged my tensioner pulley and chipped the socket where the pin would go to keep both components aligned.

EDIT: on picture 3, you could see the chip/nick in the crankshaft snout.







I called HMO and other places to see if they have a short block. No one carries one. A ITR crankshaft runs roughly around $1000. And a long block is roughly $2500.

Any ideas where I can get a legit, and by legit I mean from people with good history that won't **** me over, short block?

Or...

get an b18b for smogging purposes (California)
h2b
b18c (sir or type r) semi/fully built

 

OUCH!!! GL and sorry for the drama But, welcome back

 

I know that I'm missing something.

You don't have power steering, because the PS belt broke.
Tensioners get old and can be replaced.

What don't I understand?

 

I think he's saying the keyway on the crank got damaged from the pin being misaligned, so now you can't put the pin back in, crank snout is ruined

 

I wonder if there is a machine shop that can fix that? it's not like it's the journals or anything, keyway can always be welded and recut, I've heard of that being done on expensive or rare cranks, there might be a possibility of lining up the pulley and drilling and tapping the crank snout for bolts,

 

I heard good things about ERL Performance short blocks.

http://www.erlperformance.com/honda-...rl-superdeck-i

 

I would never "fix"that. The short block or rebuild with a new crank is the way to go. I wouldn't feel too bad about driving it, by the time you heard a problem the damage was already too far. Even a little crank damage and a new balancer they always come loose and will haunt you for life from my experiences. I've welded them on a beater before though with "success" lol.

 

correct.

yeah my brother told me same thing. we thought about just JB welding it, but it would be a "permanent fix" and i could never rebuild the bottom block if I wanted to later down the road. lol. Im not too worried about this now, since i might just build a new "race" motor on the side and just california smog a b18b. still deciding though.

 

Yeah it was a sad day, but thanks! glad to be back!

 

Have a machine shop machine a new key-way 180* around the crank snout. Then have the same keyway machined 180* into a replacement pulley. As long as both are exactly 180* off, you shouldn't have any trouble timing the engine.

 

Have you tried any salvage yards? They're usually reputable and will usually give you a 7-30 day warranty.

I've never had any trouble with anybody here: http://www.car-part.com/ (nationwide salvage listings)

 

why not just grab a used gsr or itr crank. $200 or less in my area. slap 'er in there and move on.

 

sorry to hear about that...i was confused at first too because just missing a p/s belt isnt the end of the world or the engine. it just means at low speeds youre going to be exercising your arms a LOT more..



you "could" use it as an excuse to make it faster...but ill tell you from experience that can cause other issues lol..

 

yeah... that was the plan.. lmao. I have a ls-vtec turbo set up from my brothers old car but im kind of not digging the B series anymore unless its N/A with ITBs. lol I love the sound. but if you look closer at picture 3 you can see the chip/nick in the snout. i didnt mention that in the pictures above. But i should to stop the confusion.

 

In most places in the states, people charge an arm and a leg for ITR parts cause its "JDM yo!" I want to get another crankshaft but I dont wanna fork over $1000 cause if I end up doing that I might as well build a better motor.

 

I never thought about that, thanks lol! that could save me a few hundred dollars for other things =D

 

The problem with a new keyway is everyone I have seen do that has marked up the crank making the crank mating surface smaller. A new pulley will be a bit loose on the crank and the crank bolt will never stay tight.

 

i dont see a problem with forced induction ls/vtec...but i think its obvious why. it all depends on what you want to do with the car..

 

No you would cut a new key way on the opposite side of the crank. No need to re-grind anything. Just leave the chipped side alone.

BTW: It's also only $3k for a brand new US C5 short block. You could part out your old one and re-coupe some cost: http://www.oemacuraparts.com/auto-pa...sion-assy-scat

 

Either of these options.

 

I would sell short block u have some one will buy it its a good block with internals and buy a gsr short block

 

There's an ITR crank for sale in the ITR FS section above. Just FYI.

 

i have a fresh b18c5 if you're interested - send me a PM i'm in the south bay area. long or short block

 

Either I suck at explaining things or you suck at reading but you missed my point completely. I've done this before twice and it didn't work either time.

 

Hard to argue with that. :\