http://stores.revolutionparts.com/ho...lower-arm-scat

#28 in picture .... part # 90172-S04-003


I know that all 88-00 civic & most integras have rear UCA which bolts down to trailing arm assembly.

What is the trick to taking out the bolt without it breaking?





TIA

 

My trick is to turn the wrench counterclockwise.

Is it rusted in place? Or going to break for a different reason?

Why do you care if it breaks?

 

Torch or inductance heater.

The bushing is useless after and needs to be replaced but usually it's either a torch or an inductance heater to get stubborn stuck bolts out.

 

Yes, but then the bolt is useless anyway. It should be replaced. That's why I'm wondering why he cares about breaking it or why he's assuming it'll break.

If its not rusted...it'll come out.
If it is rusted...even if you get it out without breaking it, a new bolt is needed.

If you're trying not to break it because you want it to come out without having to vice grip the stud over and over for 1hr like I had to...then...heat the crap out of it and pray that it doesn't break.

Then replace the bolt and use anti sieze on the whole shaft amd threads.

 

- I have a race this weekend.

- I have new adjustable camber kit i could install before getting alignment done

- BUT, I don't want to risk extra down-time with bolts breaking off, or having cut-off weld nut and re-welding a new nut onto trailer arm.


No it's not rusted or anything. I don't DD the car so threads look pretty clean.

I tried to turn it the head of the bolt but notice the other end of the bolt not turning, so i stopped before the bolt broke.

 

Well...it's twisted now, player. Heat it up and keep turning it. If needed, break it off in your garage. Better than it breaking at the track. Honda has replacement bolts for you, I'm sure.

 

My philosophy still works. If you need to use some trick to remove it...the bolt is probably junk anyway. If you can't remove it by easily turning a wrench counterclockwise, you're fresh out of tricks that will save you "down time".

Down time in this case being the amount of time it takes you to drive to a place that sells bolts. I think they're M8 or M10x1.25. Class 10.9. Make sure its class 10.9. Metric class 10.9.

 

well turned the bolt head about 1/20th of a turn just to see if i could get some movement from the other end of the tread bolt, but no luck so i turned it back. lol.

I'll go buy some bolts now just incase.

thanks fellas

 

I don't like breaking them because I hate trying to drill them out, 50% of the time you trash the threads and tapping is pretty pointless.

My LCA bolts were seized in the bushings not the nut.

I ended up drilling 30% - 50% of the threads on all 3 so used another metric nut to lock all 3 in with 3 new bolts. That was a weekend I won't forget any time soon. Also burnt through 3 Lordco Titanium coated bits drilling those bolts.

 

1. spray with copious amount of PB blaster

2. let sit for 10 min and smack it with a ball peen hammer to help the oils work into the threads

3. put your wrench on the bolt and attempt to tighten it... it should give a little "POP" as it breaks the threads loose but don't go any further than that

4. back the bolt out

this trick has worked for me countless times.

have fun,
-chris

 

^^^ will try that in a bit.

 

when you pull the offending bolt, inspect it well to make sure its salvageable. if it isn't twisted, soak it with PB again and clean with a wire brush. if you determine the threads are no good after cleaning them up then replace it...

definitely have replacements on hand if time is of the essence...

-chris

 

^^^ I've never tried it until now.
Worked like a charm.

 

Glad you got the bolt out. But...if a lower suspension bolt came out with penetrating oil, it would likely have come out anyway.

Usually, when a bolt like that is actually stuck, the bushing has rusted to it. Penetrating oil almost never works for those. You have a lot working against you at that point. Bushings absorb energy instead of letting the bolt actually turn against the rust. The rusted area is pretty large. Etc.

 

glad I could shine some light my friend

-chris

 

And the combination of penetrant oil (which eats rust) and a hammer will break the rust free, allowing the bolt to turn.