Fresh rebuilt DOHC ZC - All seals on motor, rods, bearings, rings, hone, p&p head.

Runs like subaru under water with no power. I mean keep it to the floor to rev to 3k, then I can eventually make my way to the speed limit.

Sounds like its running on 2/3 cylinders. Impossible to start when it is hot. Compression 180 across the board. No vacuum leaks. This **** runs horrible and I assume it is timing.

Sound about right? I'm stick though, I've redone the timing 15+ times. No clue.




EDIT:
Mark on timing gear lining up perfectly with oil pump arrow, both cam gears meet in the center, horizontal to the valve cover. When I turn it back to TDC, I cant necessarily tell but it seems it may be off one tooth. Would 1 tooth be enough to do that?

 

Unplug the injectors one by one to see if the idle changes. If it doesn't drop when you unplug the injector, you have an issue with that cylinder misfiring. Could do this with the spark plugs too, but I'd suggest rubber gloves because that shock hurts (trust me).

Sounds like a misfire.

 

Thanks for the response, I'm sure you have helped me in the past.
If I pull any individual plug the lopey idle doesnt change at all. Sits at 750-1k steady but just rumbles like its out of time. I just dont get how pulling spark plugs dont change anything. Pulling any injector makes it stumble and almost die. All 4 do the same.

 

update: Only code in computer is throttle position sensor, because the plug snapped off about a year ago. ran like it should before the rebuild

 

What is the fuel pressure?

 

Havent checked, don't have a gague. Why should fuel pressure be messed up? It was just running perfectly 4 days ago before rebuild. Its not like just a weak motor, it feels like timing weak; Not sure how to explain it but its like stumbling all over feels like running on 3 cylinders.

I guess to make sure and report back, I'll check the fuel pressure.
s

 

My DOHC ZC gears the arrows DO NOT line up right dead level with the head at TDC.

Try setting the timing with the cams pinned in place through the hole in the outer cam journal on the timing belt side. THIS will result in TDC.


When I rebuilt mine I had a TPS issue also that never caused an issue before and yet HAD to be remedied or the car dies every time I stopped. I'd fix the TOPS issue for peace for mind if nothing else also.

 

One more thing to check before moving on. Are you sure you hooked up all the wiring correctly? Are the wires plugged in behind the motor? I know there are two plugs that are interchangeable, did you swap them by mistake?


If not, I'd recommend you forget what you know you just did, and try to diagnose it without your previous knowledge. The correlation of time, might just be a coincidence.

When I put my B18C in my car, it didn't start. It was because of the main relay, something I didn't even touch during the swap.

 

Was the head milled or the block decked during the rebuild? If so it'll just further complicate the issue of the arrows not lining up perfectly right at TDC.

 

He says he has good compression.

 

I checked wiring, but all wires on the intake manifold never came unplugged.
As for the two timing marks, there are two flat lines supposed to be EVEN with the valve cover. Now I am aware that the two ARROWS that point up wont be even. I have used dowels in the cams and it still doesnt make any difference.

 

When I swapped my B16A into my hatch, I had this same problem. It was running on 3 cylinders. I even posted videos here. It sounded like a Subaru and puffed smoke. For whatever reason, the spark plug wasn't igniting the fuel. It flooded the cylinder and poured gas out the tail pipe. I swear you are having a cylinder misfire. Why? I cannot tell you. But try and let the cylinders air out or something. Maybe try new spark plugs and possibly a spare set of injectors. I removed the spark plug from my car, left it out for a few days (got fed up with it honestly) and came back and it worked. One of the most frustrating things I've ever done.

 

Good call. 180 on a FRESH DOHC ZC isn't that great though. Mine pushes 210 to all 4 cylinders. Dem P29s.


Yeeeaaah.... wanna see a pic of where my lines sit at TDC. They SHOULD line up but if you're a regular on theZCR you've seen a BUNCH of pics where they don't exactly LOL.




Prob not your issue with an even 180 across the board. DEF not if you used dowels and it lined up. How old is the O2 sensor? How long did the dizzy sit while it was being rebuilt? Was it exposed to ANY moisture? When was the last time you replaced plugs, cap and rotor, and wires?

 

Why is everyone so focused on giving him timing advice, did nobody read what he wrote here?

So your tps is unplugged/broken connector?

This needs addressed first, your car needs these values from the sensor to run properly.

 

Plugs, wires, cap, rotor all brand new. Igniter and coil replaced 4 months ago.
Dizzy sat in a garage for 4 days while I built it. o2 sensor was on the car since before I got it 2 years ago.

 

putting a new TPS on now... even though it isnt the problem, **** it.

 

This is true. Possibly a MAP sensor issue (if TPS does not fix it)? Make sure it has a good vacuum source. Mine did not when I first did my swap and it sounded really rough.

 

are the spark plug wires in the correct locations on the distributor cap?

 

Update: Well last time i looked at it was last night - was about 1AM I was working on it after work.

Well now in daylight I can see no spark to 1-4. Replacing cap/rotor AGAIN. Lousy aftermarket ****. Will get back to you.

Some rookie bullshit like this and I onyl have myself to blame. I refuse to work at midnight with a flashlight anymore. Miss to much simple ****.

EDIT: And jes Jlicrx wire order is correct on motor and cap. No spark at 1,4 at the cap. 2,3 fine.

 

Okay so I reset the timing, replaced wires, cap, rotor and it runs a ton better. Not like it was, but still not there. Over the big hump.

Now, I have a code 6 and 7. TPS Sensor had been broken off, but I replaced it. Code still coming on.

For the ECT sensor, I put in my old known working ECT sensor. Temp gauge doesn't work, seems to be running extremely rich, and it wont idle correctly.

 

Possibly bad wiring on the TPS then. Try running a couple of wires directly from the sensor to the ECU to see if you have a bad wire somewhere in the loom.

ECT sensor is something I'm not too good with. You are talking about the one under the distributor and not the thermostat, right? Possibly another bad wire.

You might have pinched a couple wires rebuilding the motor. Just double check the wires and run temporary ones to see if it is an issue with the wires.

For the idle, have you messed with the screw? Does the DOHC ZC have an IACV or FITV? That's usually where the idle issues spring from.

 

it has an IACV... What screw are you speaking of? Cant get the idle down below 1500....
Only error I am getting is Code 7 (TPS) now. But it still smells super rich. I will run two temporary TPS wires tonight.

ECT code is gone now.... Arent there 4 sensors that measure temperature? Which directly affects the temperature gauge? My gauge wont work.

 

The screw on the throttle body that adjusts idle. I think it's the idle adjustment screw haha.



Red- ECU
Green- Gauge
Blue- Fan switch

This isn't a DOHC ZC, but should be similar.

If it's idling high and running rich, the TPS could be to blame. The throttle cable isn't pulling on the butterfly valve, is it? Could be too tight. Definitely troubleshoot the code 7.

 

If this was a DPFI to MPFI swap once upon a time, the two outer wires on the TPS need to be flipped.

 

This is originally an SI - No dual point here. Does the TPS work the same as ECT? 5v signal in and variable voltage travelling back to the ECU depending on throttle? Btw I have my throttle cable so loose there is an inch of slack in the pedal. Something else going on lol.