So I'm new to the civic seen. Just bought a 92 civic CX hatch. Its a Canadian model w/ a d15b7. It came with a ton of parts.

Aftermarket headers back
Exhaust
Halo headlights
Aftermarket radiator and 2 e fans.

Its burning smoke in the high rpms. About 4k or more. I'm trying to take it easy but its still doing it
I'm looking into a cheap easily found vtech swap. I want it to be pretty simple swap. I kno I'm lookin into a d16 something swap.

I'm car friendly but new to civics. I know I need a new ecu or a chip to program/tune it. I would like my exhaust to be able to be still uses also so trying for the sane header bolt pattern.
Any help would be sweet.

 

You're new, so I'll try to be nice. At the top of this forum, before you created a new thread, you should have noticed the sticky threads. They're highlighted with a gray background. Please give the FAQ and Rules stickies both a good read - your question is answered in them. Many people have put many hours into making those threads, and completely ignoring them is rather insulting to those people.

 

why would swap a phone/toy into your car? unless you mean vtec...

 

I've been going thru those stickies. This isnt mY first time on fourms. There is just alot of info to go thru. Most is heavily nodded.

VTEC ,vtech,v-tech,v-tec.... All the same damn thing. You kno what I meant.


I really hope this isnt one of those type of fourms.

 

I'm still searchin right now. There is jus so many different options

 

Unfortunately, it usually is.

I tend to think being you did say the easiest, for your car that would probably be the 92-95 SI D16Z6 swap. Keep all your wiring, run vtec wiring and be able to keep your exhaust. The D16z6 ecu will plug right into the existing harness being it too is OBD1.

Research D16Z6.

 

If you want to stay D series, yes, the Z6 is easily your best option. Dual oil channels means it's less likely to spin a bearing, and it's quite easy to bolt a turbo to it if you want to up the power a little in the future.

 

Thank you. At least it good helpful input. I was jus searchin and ran into a d16y7 or y8. Y7 are cheaper sounding. I'll look up a z6. I'm still out searchin the fourm.also checking craigslist at the sane time to see what is up for sale around me

 

As for exhaust lining up, as well as ECU/tuning stuff, and another possible question I'm going to foresee...

Any 92-00 D series engine will have the same exhaust bolt pattern. If it's a D series out of any 92-00 Civic, you won't need a new exhaust.

As for ECU/tuning stuff, If you stick with an OBD1 engine (basically any D series from 92 to 95), you can just use the ECU that matches that motor. If you use an OBD2 (96-00) D series, you should use a socketted and chipped OBD1 ECU. You don't need any kind of tune, though - just a stock ECU chip, which can be purchased from Xenocron for pretty cheap.

One of the foreseen questions is "which one is best". Everyone who wants to talk about swaps asks. Short answer: D16Z6. Long answer: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_D_engine. Pick one from 92-00 that has the best power, and find one to buy.

The next foreseen question is in regards to transmissions. If you're looking at fiddling with a car with an automatic, stop. Just stop. Put a standard transmission in it before you look at taking another step forward. As for which transmission you should use, a 92-95 EX/SI, or a 96-00 EX transmission. Done, end of discussion.

 

The Y7 is a non-VTEC motor. It's an econobox. There's a reason I'm ripping mine out, and a reason pretty much everyone with performance in mind rips theirs out, sooner or later. The Y8 isn't a bad option, but for your particular car, it would be second best to the Z6.

 

ive got a standard. im looking into a z6 swap now. ill look into a chip. i see alot of ppl using a p28. but idk. im still doing tons of searching b4 jumping into things

 

A P28 is the stock ECU for the D16Z6.

 

The P28 is the stock ECU for that motor. You won't need a chip.

 

This is one of those forums that asks it members to contribute and do some ground work before asking questions. Count it as lucky, when I did my first swap (B16A into a 89 Honda DX) there was really no internet info so to speak. I did it in my friends garage over a few months in the winter using a Haynes 84-91 manual and a 94-95 Haynes Integra manual. Good luck and you may want to look a the JDM D15B SOHC VTEC swap as well as an alternative to the D16Z6. You're in Canada so you may have a lot of engine importer options.

 

Im not in canada I'm in the states. Ohio. But my Honda is from canada. It has canadian underhood stickers and a d15b7 not a b8. Ive been doin more reasearch and prolly will go the z6 option. Its easily found, cheap, faster,more HP, VTEC.

Mite end up throwing new rings in my b7 that's in there hope it holds and stops me burning oil. Then save and buy and build a z6 on a stand. It will give me time to do body work and other mechanixal fixes.

 

Oil burning is more likely old valve seals. Viton rubber only lasts so long.

Also, run your VIN to be sure it's the Canadian CX with the B7 natively. The B7 could have easily been swapped in by someone tired of the lesser powered B8.

Having Canadian Stickers could just mean it was made in Canada as was most of the USDM Hondas back then.

Running the VIN will give you a better idea if the car is truly sock or has had swaps/mods done to it.

Doing the Z6 saves you from having to chip an ECU.

 

b series. just as easy as d series. but way better performance. d series ok if doing turdbo, but that kinda kills the easy/ reliable thing.

b16 or b18c swap for what you outlined. even the b16 can be somewhat disappointing but its miles more fun than the d15.

 

Ya know, if you don't know what you're saying, you really shouldn't post like that. A B series swap isn't hard, by any means, but it sure as hell is not "as easy as d series". The performance also isn't "way better". While we're on, FI D series motors are no less reliable than their NA counterparts, as long as they are done correctly. Boosting a motor is also easier than swapping one. Grand total, you just went 4 for 4 on being wrong.

 

I am new to the whole Honda modifying scene but have been reading and searching for weeks to absorb information.

What "NotARacist" seems to be the truth.

From what I understand so far B series swaps are way over rated vs turbo D series.

 

It all depends entirely on how much power, what kind of power delivery, and how much money you want to spend. If you're going for ~150, your options are a tuned B18B1, or a small turbo. The tuned B18B1 would be the cheaper option. If you're going for 200, your options are a tuned B18C5, or a small turbo. The small turbo would be the cheaper option. 250, turbo B18B1 or forged and turbo D16. Could be break-even, or the B18B1T could be cheaper, depending on how you choose to forge the D16 internals. 300+, just swap in a B and boost it, with varying levels of engine building necessary depending on your goals.

It's one of the rare few things that are just that simple.

 

That makes a lot of sense. I am going forged D16y8 and turbo myself.

 

soooo...... i just found out that i have a d15z1 NOT a d15b7. i thought it was a b7 but had never looked at my block code. so i posted another thread trying to figure out whats going on with that. im gonna run my vin code. i got it written down i just gotta look it up.