So my starting having this problem a few days ago. It would start up fine, but then shut off immediately after I let go off the key. If I hold the key a slight back a little enough so the starter is not engaging but still on start. It stays on and runs perfectly normal.

At first my car was running fine, came back out and it did not start for the rest of the night. So I was diagnosing the problems.

-Main relay is clicking, and I hear the fuel pump coming on, also all the solder joints look good
-Dizzy seems okay, I got it started one time and it drove fine for 20 mins before I went back home, and it is running when I hold the car and starting up. So the dizzy must be doing it's job.

That leaves me to the ignition switch. I did this continuity test here.

I had continuity everywhere it said to check EXCEPT at ll WHT and BLK/Yellow. I then pulled the whole back of the ignition switch off. From what I could see some wires looked like they were overheated at one point, but they had continuity.

What confuses me is why no continuity in the ll on those two terminals, but then I have continuity on the start position on those two terminals.
I really don't want to pay 100 dollers for this piece and it not be my problem.

Shouldn't the car stay running though once it's started just like if you have a dead battery and you push start the car to get it going? Or am I thinking of this wrong. Can I somehow bypass the whole switch?

 

This is the switch I was doing my continuity tests on.

 

Why not replace the switch since you know it is bad?

 

Well if I can could bypass the whole switch all together and not even need to worry about it then I would like to do that. That mainly is what I am asking about.

Has anyone bypassed a ignition switch so it would run without the key even needing to be in the run position. Does anyone know how the electrical system works? Why does the key actually need to be in run once the car is started for it to stay running.

 

I don't think anyone is going to give you step by step instructions on how to hotwire a Honda. You'll have to do your own research on that.

If you're trying to bypass the electronics in the ignition, fine. Just remember that the steering wheel is also locked when the key is not in.

 

Yeah was not expecting a tutorial, was just wondering if anyone has done this to there civic before and the extent of work it takes. I am just going to suck it up, I ordered the part. I didn't even think about it the amount of research and time I would invest in trying to research to bypass it and do it. It wouldn't be worth my the time and if I didn't do it properly could have even more problems. I have heard of bypassing the start up with the key like with a push button but the key still on to be on the RUN position for that way to work. I didn't even think of the key steering wheel locking to with the key out. That would also have to by bypassed. Just going to replace the ignition switch and call it a day.

 

So did it fix it the new harness

 

Thread is five years old.

 

 

Not trying to hack anything just asking if the new switch fixed the issues I'm all for just replacing the part because I have a 94 civic that just started doing this Monday