O.k. I got the car on jackstands... got the 17mm wrench, torque wrench, helms manual

My steps would be

0. engine flush? - that isn't needed, right?
1. unscrew engine cap
2. drain the oil
3. take the filter off
4. replace washer before placing the drain plug back on.. torque drain plug
5. lubricate filter rubber seal with oil

6. hand tighten the filter and then torque it? or go by the numbers?
7. place 4.2 quarts of oil?
8. start car, let it run for 3 minutes
9. check oil level, add more if needed?

 

wow....i never knew there was really that long of a list to do a oil change. hahah i dont think you need to run your car for 3 minutes tho afterwards. also all you need i 4 quarts. no need for that .2

 

I understand that you want to learn how to do it But maybe you should watch someone who has done it before so you could learn better then trial and error, That could be a very exspensive mistake if ya **** up.

 

just hand tighten the filter until your weak arm cant turn it anymore.

 

err.. i hope it won't be trial&error.. i have my mind setup on getting it done... changed my spark plugs... this can't be that much harder...

its only 2 screws (filter/drain plug).. just hoping to get few details from other r owners who already ahead of me...

 

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/oilchange/oil.html

good luck

 

thanks for all replies.. I forgot about http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/oilchange/oil.html

just couple more questions...

1. engine flush? - anyone uses that stuff - its not mentioned in the manual.. and in most post i found on the board people speak against it

2. i got the part where i would hand tighten the filter until it no longer turns and maybe another 1/4 turn... or use torque wrench... but what about going by the numbers on oem filter - anyone done that - if possible any tips

thanks

 

I personally don't like flushes. Paranoid about some being left in the engine, diluting the fresh stuff when you fill it back up... but that's me. also, I use synthetic, which seems to keep the engines a lot cleaner than conventionals.

for the filter, 3/4 of a turn after it contacts the surface... I just turn that sucker as hard as I can by hand. ends up being close to 3/4 of a turn. FWIW, I've never had one come loose on me.

 

thanks, looks like i won't be using flush

 

I tighten 1/2 a turn after contact. I like them to come off.

 

It is more than 4 qts... 4.25 I believe. and FWIW, I only run the car to make sure the light either doesn't come on, or goes off. 30 seconds maybe?

 

This is what I do.

1. Come home from buying filter and oil. Very important step, you want to drain the oil after it has been agitated and warm.
2. Jack front of car up and put on jack stands.
3. Place drain pan underneath drain plug. Unbolt drain plug.
4. Let oil drain completely (should take about 5 minutes or so).
5. Remove old crush washer from drain plug.
6. Clean drain plug with a towel or rag.
7. Put new crush washer onto drain plug and re-install plug (33 ft-lb)
8. Move drain pan to underneath oil filter.
9. Remove oil filter.
10. Wipe off oil spilage from removing the old oil filter.
11. Lube new oil filter gasket with new oil
12. Install new filter.
13. Remove oil cap and dip stick.
14. Pour in 4 litres of new oil. (you guys keeping mixing up L and US qt)
15. Check level with dipstick.
16. Put oil cap and dipstick back on.
17. Start up car.
18. Give the car a few revs.
19. Crawl back under car and look for leaks.
20. Shut off car.
21. Remove jackstands and lower the car.
22. Check oil level with dipstick.

The whole process (from step 2 to step 22) takes me about 20-30 minutes. I've gotten to the point where I can do it without getting a single drop of oil on me or the garage floor. I use a oil filter socket for installation and removal of the filter ($4 at most autopart stores).



[Modified by Tommy_Gunns, 2:26 AM 11/1/2002]

 

cool, thanks .. will keep all replies in mind when i'll get it done tommorow morning (more like in few hours)

btw for
12. Install new filter. - how much of a turn do you make after the filter stops turning? so far theres 3 different replies... i was thinking to use the torque wrench at that point, and try to remember how much of a turn i'll make

 

Make sure you use synthetic oil. Mobil 1 is a good choice.

 

You don't have to use synthetic, but that's what I use....

 

On the OEM filter it says turn it by hand till the gasket begins to seat, then turn it an additional 7/8 of a turn. I turn it 3/4 turn using the filter socket wrench and no leaks so far.

 

and a case of beer

 

got that...


need help quick... i'm placing the old filter back on... and first turned it by hand...
then i thought maybe i should check with torque wrench.. so i turned it back a little, and wrench seemed to be pushing it too far.. so i turned it back again and hand tighten it...

question... does moving the filter back and forth damage the rubber seal?

 

Don't play with the filter, just leave it. If you can't turn it by hand, it is tight enough. 7/8 of a turn using the numbers or 3/4 turn after it contacts the surface.

 

thanks, with torque wrench it went almost 7 where i stopped, and turned it back.. its on 5 right now

 

Damn, I can't believe there's somebody more **** than me. lol I use to tighten with the oil filter wrench like you but I've since started just hand tightening it. I make sure I put all my might into it though. So far so good...

 

Depending on where you started, you want to end up 7 numbers after you started. It's clearly written out in the manual.

 

Doesn't anyone pour oil into the new filter prior to installing it? Sure helps prevent oil starvation when you first start the engine once you've completed the oil change.

Try pouring oil to the top of the new filter before you even begin draining the oil pan. Then once you've reinstalled the drain plug, pour some more oil into the new filter (it does take time for the fresh oil to get absorbed by the filtering medium). Then take off the old filter and by the time you go to instal the new one, there should be next to no oil coming out of the new filter when you instal it.


[Modified by rainman, 8:46 AM 11/1/2002]

 

That was mentioned. The original post said 'lubricate seal with oil'.

 

thought about pouring oil in new filter.. but too late for that.. i lubricated the rubber oil seal.. just started the car and the oil light stayed on for 1-2.. the usual cold start...

thanks for all the help... might take pictures next time.. a bit more detailed.. so everyone can learn..

its very easy to do