B16B Type R: Vtec Question
So I'm pretty much done my D to B series swap in my CRX. JEEEEZ it was tight!!! Anyway, I need to know what part I need for the Vtec. What exactly am I looking for? Is it called a b16 vtec solenoid? Is that what I need? Are they all universal with B series or do I have to get one that goes with my engine? I can provide pictures tomorrow if needed, my phone died! 
EDIT: I got some pics!

Thanks for the help in advanced!

EDIT: I got some pics!

Thanks for the help in advanced!
Last edited by Haws; Aug 21, 2014 at 02:43 PM.
Ok I found this... https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...+vtec+solenoid I have a better understanding of what I got and what I need. Now I still am trying to figure out exactly will any solenoid work or what.
Maybe I have described or said the wrong part. Basically I have my car running and everything, but the problem is there is no Vtec. I was told I needed a small part to hook it up. Its on the left side of the motor head.Edit: its like this i think http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...tart=0&ndsp=26 Ignore the text, I just grabbed that off google.
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If you are using a USDM P28, you have three choices to address the VTEC pressure switch issue.
1) Turn the pressure switch OFF in the basemap programming inside your P28. This is assuming that you have a chipped P28.
OR
2) Source a '94-01 USDM "B" series VTEC assembly which has the pressure switch already installed and replace your current assembly with the US version.
OR
3) Drill your current JDM VTEC assembly for the addition of a pressure switch and simply screw one in. They can be sourced new from your local Honda dealer or from your closest salvage yard. ANY "B", "D", or "H" series VTP will work... just look for the green 2-pin plug.
1) Turn the pressure switch OFF in the basemap programming inside your P28. This is assuming that you have a chipped P28.
OR
2) Source a '94-01 USDM "B" series VTEC assembly which has the pressure switch already installed and replace your current assembly with the US version.
OR
3) Drill your current JDM VTEC assembly for the addition of a pressure switch and simply screw one in. They can be sourced new from your local Honda dealer or from your closest salvage yard. ANY "B", "D", or "H" series VTP will work... just look for the green 2-pin plug.
If you are using a USDM P28, you have three choices to address the VTEC pressure switch issue.
1) Turn the pressure switch OFF in the basemap programming inside your P28. This is assuming that you have a chipped P28.
OR
2) Source a '94-01 USDM "B" series VTEC assembly which has the pressure switch already installed and replace your current assembly with the US version.
OR
3) Drill your current JDM VTEC assembly for the addition of a pressure switch and simply screw one in. They can be sourced new from your local Honda dealer or from your closest salvage yard. ANY "B", "D", or "H" series VTP will work... just look for the green 2-pin plug.
1) Turn the pressure switch OFF in the basemap programming inside your P28. This is assuming that you have a chipped P28.
OR
2) Source a '94-01 USDM "B" series VTEC assembly which has the pressure switch already installed and replace your current assembly with the US version.
OR
3) Drill your current JDM VTEC assembly for the addition of a pressure switch and simply screw one in. They can be sourced new from your local Honda dealer or from your closest salvage yard. ANY "B", "D", or "H" series VTP will work... just look for the green 2-pin plug.
Option #3 isn't as great as you think, it needs to be drilled & tapped perfectly square since it seals with a crush washer not via tapered threads like a pipe fitting. It's also not the most common thread size.
The vtec pressure switch actually seals with a rubber O-ring and not a crush washer. I agree with you that one must be careful to thread the hole paying close attention to the tap being parallel to the bore of the hole. The thread size and pitch are a common metric size... especially for a Honda. IIRC, it is 10mm x1.25.
This method makes the installation look OE and the ground that is being sent to the ECU by the VTP will operate as Honda Engineers intended. Trouble-shooting down the road is much easier for both you, and any shop that services your car, if wiring and mechanical/electrical sensors are original.
This method makes the installation look OE and the ground that is being sent to the ECU by the VTP will operate as Honda Engineers intended. Trouble-shooting down the road is much easier for both you, and any shop that services your car, if wiring and mechanical/electrical sensors are original.
If you end up using the CTR ECU you won't need the pressure switch as it doesn't look for it. I've never been quite clear on why but the JDM OBD2 engines don't come with the pressure switches and the ECU's don't look for them.
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