Hi Guys, i've been reading on and on about camshaft tech. I'm in the market for a set of cams since my current buddyclub spec 4's are showing signs of wear, I gues due OEM lma's, but ok, that's not my question.

I'm looking into cam specs, different setups, and trying to find a simular setup, found 1 very simular and he was running tjhe BC4's, but I don't want them anymore after reading the wear on a lot of setups.

I'm having a theory wich I can't find an good answer to. a Camshaft that works great a *random* B16 vtec setup, next to this b16 setup we would have and B20 vtec setup, exactly same spec, compression etc (it's a theory!), only the B20 vtec has a bigger bore and stroke. I'm thinking the great working cam in the B16 would not work as great on the B20 due a higher volume in the combustion chamber, it could get more air, fuel and more potential for powaaah.

Any toughts about this?

To be more specific, I have an B20 11.5:1, and thinking about the Skunk2 pro1's. They seem to make decent power en equel setups as mine, but these are mostly B18's, since the B20 has more room for air and fuel, would the Pro2 be a wiser choice tough these should be in the 12.0:1/13.0:1 range?

Edit: Since the first reply's are about my motor setup, I will post my engine spec's here.

JDM B20B, 0.5 overbore to 84.5
B20B crank, 89mm (balanced with poulie, lightweight flywheel and pressure plate.), polished
Eagle H-beam rods / ARP 2000 bolts
CP Carillo forged pistons 84,5mm 11.5:1 dome:1.1cc
Line bored
B18C-R Block gridle
B18C-R 'windage tray' + olie pickup + oilpan
ARP head bolts
Type-R oilpump
Fresh gaskets, acl's, etc

Integra Type R head milled
Stage 4 flowed by EDG techniek
Bored the head 84,5mm
Supertech flat valves, stock sized (33&28mm) N100F (stronger)
Supertech spring and titanium retainers 1002DR
Supertech bronze valve guides
Supertech valve lock 5.5mm 7degrees

Buddyclub spec 4 camshafts (new, signs of wear after 3000km)
Precision 440cc injectors
Cometic headgasket 0.03"
C/R should be 11.5:1

Skunk2 Ultra 'street' intake manifold (slightly flowed)
Skunk2 alpha 70mm tb
unbranded 4-1 exhaustmanifold@ 2,5" (will this week be replaced by toda replica by tegiwa, i don't like the 2,38to2,5" flange, so will be welding this to a true 2,5")
True 2,5" (inside) exhaust system
ECtune, AEM wideband, will be doing the tuning ourselfs

Y1 Gearbox
Plate LSD by Mugen
ACT 6 puck clutch

Thanks for reading.

 

I would move to the Blox C from the Buddy Club 4.

I'm running BC4s in my motor, I haven't noticed any wear, but then again they've only been in for a couple months. I did pull my VC last weekend though and it looked fine.

What kind of power did you make on those?

I think they're an amazing cam considering the relatively small lobes by today's standards.

 

Research slowsleeper's builds. He makes very good power with the camshafts with the combos he's built

 

Thanks for you'r replies, I will look into that.
I've editted the startpost to show the motor setup I currently have.

The BC4's I have were brand new, the vtec lobe show signs of wear, I believe this is caused by the (stock itr) LMA's. I will be switching those to Skunk2 LMA's.

It hasn't been dyno'd yet, and I won't be doing this untill the engine has a new set of cams.

Here you can see the wear and pitting they have, this was after 3000km = less then 2000miles. They currently have about 5000km's on them, will be inspecting them soon. At 3000km I got it on 2 vtec lobes at the exhaust shaft.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/cu1ro9wria...2020.02.36.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/wpdxq2nlxz...2020.03.04.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ox2dialhq1...2013.14.19.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2z819l5eea...2013.15.15.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/cl2saa52wu...2013.15.29.jpg

Anyways, i'm very curious about the tought on my theory in the startpost.

 

That's some pretty ugly lobe wear, the rockers will be trash as well. I'd dig into what caused that. You can simply toss the parts and blindly replace lma etc, but it will be speculation unless you know for sure the head was setup right. No binding of the lma or spring coils. Always check and flush the cam oil rails and make sure everything in the engine is 110% clean.

Cam failure is one of the more interesting topics you can investigate in engines, not just Hondas. Lots of engine builders and cam manufacturers struggle with trying to determine if it's assembly clearances, cam or follower material, insufficient oil, improper oil additives etc. I've had cams get lobe wear with great clearance, textbook oil pressure and delivery, high zddp oils, different lma's and never quite nailed down what caused it. I can tell you on b series it's almost always exclusively the exhaust side, so I wonder if heat travel up through the valve plays any part of it, seems unlikely.

 

what retainer are you running

 

I'm sure the skunk2 pro1 would make good power, but maybe the skunk2 pro2 would be better due the higher volume in the combustion chamber, but it isn't meeting the high 12.0:1 c/r.

Quote from another n/a topic:
My head is flowed, and it has somewhat bigger displacement.

With this in mind, I would think the pro2 could be a fine choice for this motor.

 

Good thoughts.

Is the wear on vtec only, etc

 

So, you have unusual wear on your Buddy Club cams, but aren't sure why.

Your answer is to throw Pro2s in your motor.


I'm sure the supertech valvetrain and stock LMAs won't be an issue, I see no reason this could possibly be a bad idea.

 

Yes, on 2 vtec exhaust lobes, rest looks fine, but I will do an checkup today.
My engine builder said this could be due the material used.
Then a friend show me a BC4 with 4000km on them with the same kind of wear, then spoke to an other engine builder who said he had seen this on more BC4's and that is why he aint using them anymore.

I am open for suggestion and discussion, any ideas what could cause this in my case?

 

unless the vtec lobe is a different material than the primaries, I wouldn't think it's a problem with the material

when lobes are small, the valve is less likely to have have clearance problems and thus less likely to wear

 

You're having a lubrication issue causing your wear.