So I have a certifit front cover for my integra. I've read 100 different things on the web but a lot of different methods suggested for different manufacturers.

I'm sure there are people on here that have shot certifit covers with success.

Did you do something other than soapy wash, red scotch Brite (or grey?), and wax & grease remover?

I have primer, base, and clear ...did you start with an adhesion promoter like bulldog?

I already did the oem rear with Duplicolor champ white, it was easy to use and relatively cheap. But it's not champ white, its a bright white more like frost white.

So I went to my local Whole Sale Auto Paints and got an actual champ white mix, with all the primer clear and reducer activator etc. I'm $115 into paint for the front and don't really want to put $100's of paint on a certifit cover. Guy there said most people don't use the bulldog due to the extra expense.

 

I like to use the red Scotch Brite with soapy water, then W&G remover before adhesion promoter.

What kind of primer do you have?

Adhesion promoter is important. Figure out what type of plastic it is made of and use either SEM '38363 SAND FREE' for ABS, PVC, etc; or use SEM '39863 PLASTIC ADHESION PROMOTER' for PP, TPO, etc. Check the SEM technical data sheets for more info.

I've done several Certi-fit bumper covers that have not had any issues even with lots of highway miles.

 

Example:

 

Damn that's a good looking Prelude.

Anyway, found a sticker inside the bumper and it says it's already primered....here's what I'm working with.

 

Thanks, looks like you have some decent products.

I would sand/scuff the bumper and use the SEM stuff before priming (just in case), then when your primer dries dust a guide coat on it. Then wet-sand the cured primer w/guide coat and you should be ready for paint.

 

how would he determine what kind of plastic it is? Is it stamped with a code like a plastic bottle?

 

It seems like everybody is doing too much work and using too many products, most all reman. bumpers are already primered so I just use a gray scotch brite, blow it off and tack it, sealer, base, clear. Never had any issues with paint adhering or issues after

 

Yep, all plastic car parts that I have ever seen have the plastic type molded in.

 

OK....so you are saying prep > clean > sealer > base > clear. How is that any different from what everyone else is saying?

 

It's different because I'm telling him how to get it done, and people are putting to use grease and wax remove it, apply adhesion promoter, primer it etc. Why primer it when it's a new bumper and already comes primered, I'm just making things more simple

 

If it was my car I would rather have the primer done the right way rather than whatever low-budget method Certifit uses...but that's just a personal preference.

 

If your spraying w/o wax and grease remover, your just plain doing it wrong

 

I've bought a lot of Cert-Fit bumpers for Civic and they never come primed.

The metal fender and hoods are primed.

 

I have got Sorta fit many times so are sealed and some not... all it is a epoxy type paint.

 

The step should be. Wax and grease. Sand. Wax and grease. Adhesives. Prime. Wax and grease. Sand. Wax and grease. Base coat. Tac rag in each coat. Clear. Done.

 

Do what PanchoEk said and keep it simple, the more layers and steps you introduce will end up complicating a simple job.Just scuff really well and make sure you don't sand or scuff through the factory primer.

 

If the bumper already has primer on it there is absolutely no point in putting more primer on top of it. I would scuff the bumper wet with a scotch brite and soapy water. Clean with degreaser, tack it off and paint. I've painted hundreds of these bumpers this way and never ever had one come back peeling.

 

You've "done hundreds", and that's where prep time comes into play. It sounds like you are painting bumpers professionally, so you need to get them done as fast and as cheap as possible without peeling. For a paint shop, there's no time to do restoration-quality prep.

If someone is restoring their own car or paying to have something done to high level of quality, then it would be important to do something better than Certi-fit primer. On my restoration, I primed and block sanded so that I would have an OEM or better finish that would last for many many years.