Okay same issue with my vehicle, no power to the pump. My voltages seem close to others voltages, my resistance says different.

A7 - 12.46V
A8 - N/A
A25 - 12.28V
B1 - 12.29V

A26 - 1.1
B2 -1.1
A23 & A24 - 7.9-10 & 7.5

Not sure if my injectors are faulty or what. A23s resistance bounced between 7.9 and 10, not sure if that means it's bad. I'm definitely not good electrically, but always willing to learn.

I've also replaced in the past month:

Dist. Cap and Rotor
Ignition Coil
Main Relay
Plugs and Wires
TPS
Fuel Pump

My fuel pump isn't priming and I jiggled the ECU and turned the key to ON and heard it prime up, making me think possibly an open circuit. The next day she started right back up and I adjusted my idle to manual specs and turned her off to find out today she isn't priming the pump again, but I'm getting good readings to my knowledge. I tried jiggling the ECU again and nothing.

I've also checked my relay, which is good and my relay harness, which is good. I jumped pins 5 & 7 on the relay connector and she primes right up, without her jumped, I get nothing.

I'm really just taking a guess but I'm starting to think just the ECU is no longer any good. Suggestions?

 

If you ground A7 with the key in ON(II), does the pump run?

 

Ground it as in negative probe to a grounding body, such as my frame? If so, that's how I did it to check my voltage through the back of the connector (red probe to connector, black to grounding body).

If so, then it did nothing :/

 

Your multimeter has an internal resistance, so you must directly ground A7 to the chassis with a wire.

 

Could you put that in lamest terms for me. Lol. Like I've said, I'm not good at electrical stuff.

So probe A7 at the connector or the Ecu pins? And then ground with the negative probe to chassis?

Sorry. I'm more hands on than just by words.

 

1) Unplug ECU connector A.

2) Turn key to ON(II).

3) Attach a wire to the metal frame under the dash. Touch other end of wire to pin A7 in the unplugged ECU connector.

4) Does the fuel pump run as long as the wire is touching pin A7?

 

I'm no longer at home. I can definitely check in the AM first thing. Maybe even tonight if it's not too late when I get home. Family is having a get together at the bar(I'm moving and have family visiting). I wish I was at home to test it now.

I'll keep you posted as soon as I test it.

 

OP, check the fuses and the main relay. Then run a voltage test at the fuel pump

 

Sorry for the late response. I had to work a bit today. Yeah, when I ground A7 I get power to the pump.

 

Do you mean the pump primes? If so, swap in a known good ECU.

 

It primes up, yes. I don't know a soul out here with an ECU I can test with. I'll just have to go to a scrap yard and grab one up

 

So I'm trying to find my ECU and get some prices and I noticed that the ECU that is in my car is meant for a 4 speed auto. The previous owner converted her to a 5 speed manual.

So would I still get the original ECU that I just pulled out it should I find one for a 5 speed? Probably be easier to get the original since it worked prior to my issue?

 

You need the ECU for a manual transmission but, if you search, you can also find a way to convert the auto ECU to a manual ECU.

 

I found a write up on this forum on how to do it. Scrap yard is closed today so still needing a price quote. Probably be getting it Wednesday.

 

So no luck on the exact ECU at the scrapyard so I just placed an order online for one. Just waiting now.

 

So I tried posting this last night but it didn't work. :/

I got the ECU in, plugged it up and BINGO she starts right up, you hear the pump prime immediately. Unfortunately, now I'm back to square one with my car hesitating when I accelerate. Happens every time I run the car cold and warm also with a rough idle(which I think my iacv is bad, it's humming when plugged in).

If I feather the gas pedal she corrects herself until the next time I've decelerated and attempted to accelerate again. I was hoping the pump was just on the fritz and wasnt supplying fuel and that's where I was getting the hesitation from.

 

Okay so it's 2 days later and I've started my car possibly 3 times since I've got the ECU, it's never left the front of my house. I started her up this morning so I can pull her into my garage to change my tranny fluid, all was fine. I started her a couple hours later(was running errands) to back her out of the garage and now I have no power to the fuel pump again. Where I live it's close to a real feel of 110 today and I don't know if heat has anything to do with it because she was in the shade all day. I'm at a loss as to what it could be now?

 

Still no start and pump not priming? Does the CEL remain on steady with the key in the ON(II) position?

If so, repeat the A7 test. Does the pump run?

 

Okay so my CEL turns off and I hear the clicks from the relay. I tried A7 and I got clicks from the relay when I grounded it but the pump didn't kick on this time. Last time we tried that it did work.

Could it possibly be the relay I bought with poor solder points? I've read that most of these come from the factory like that and they have to resolder all of it for it to work properly. Here's a photo of my relay.

 

Run power and ground wires directly from the battery to the fuel pump. Does the fuel pump run when you do this?

 

How would I go about doing that? Like I said, I'm not good electrically.

 

Do you know how to access the fuel pump under the rear seat?

 

Yeah I have access to it right now as we speak.

 

Unplug the 2P connector for the fuel pump. The wire harness side of the connector has a Yel/Grn wire (power) and a Blk wire (ground). On the pump side connector, touch the (+) battery wire to the pump connector terminal equivalent to the Yel/Grn wire and (-) battery wire to the pump connector terminal equivalent to the Blk wire. Does the pump run? Do the test multiple times.

Post any other questions you have.

 

Sorry if I seem like a moron, but when you say battery + are we talking my actual battery? I'm slow at times.