Radiator fan timer switch?
If this thing goes bad, can it stop the radiator fans from working???
The fuse is good, the relay is good, BOTH fans don't work. The switches I can't think both are bad. I connected 1 of the fans directly to the battery and it worked.
The fuse is good, the relay is good, BOTH fans don't work. The switches I can't think both are bad. I connected 1 of the fans directly to the battery and it worked.
1. If the A/C system is functional properly, when you turn on the A/C; both radiator fan and A/C condenser fan should run at the same time.
2. Disconnect the Engine Coolant Temp. (ECT) fan switch A (located on the thermostat housing near the back of the engine) and jump the connector with a wire or small paper clip. With the ignition ON, both fans should run at the same time. The ECT Switch A, if functioning properly should also turn on both fans if the engine coolant temperature at the switch is about 199 degrees F or above with the engine running.
If both fans runs by jumping the fan switch A, the radiator fan control module (located behind the glove box) is probably good, along with the relays and fuses.
3. The driver's side fan is considered the A/C condenser fan and has the electrical connector up top. Since that is easily accessible, you probably tested that one already.
The radiator fan (passenger side) connector is at the bottom of the car. You may want to test that by using direct power and ground if the radiator fan doesn't move; but, the condenser fan does move, with the fan switch jumper test.
2. Disconnect the Engine Coolant Temp. (ECT) fan switch A (located on the thermostat housing near the back of the engine) and jump the connector with a wire or small paper clip. With the ignition ON, both fans should run at the same time. The ECT Switch A, if functioning properly should also turn on both fans if the engine coolant temperature at the switch is about 199 degrees F or above with the engine running.
If both fans runs by jumping the fan switch A, the radiator fan control module (located behind the glove box) is probably good, along with the relays and fuses.
3. The driver's side fan is considered the A/C condenser fan and has the electrical connector up top. Since that is easily accessible, you probably tested that one already.
The radiator fan (passenger side) connector is at the bottom of the car. You may want to test that by using direct power and ground if the radiator fan doesn't move; but, the condenser fan does move, with the fan switch jumper test.
I tried the Switch connectors with the wire trick.. Did not work either!! I am going to replace the timer switch by the glove box. If that doesn't work I am going to give up and make some switches in my car directly to the fans... This car was hacked to crap! I wouldn't be surprised that there is a wiring issue hidden somewhere.
Ok, just tested it again - still no dice. Going to replace the Timer Switch under the dash. If that doesnt work then it is certainly a wiring issue and ill bypass that crap. I cant believe how poorly this car was cared for!
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I had the same issues with my 94 LX. First made sure my fuses and relay were good, then I took the connector off one of the switches (first one connected to the top radiator hose, I think it's switch B.) And shorted it with a paper clip and my fan didn't come on. Directly applied battery power to the fan and it didn't turn on... 20 minutes plus the 15minutes to auto zone, replaced the fan and the two switches (A and B) now my car runs cooler and the fan comes on by itself if the engine is too hot after I've had it on for a while.
Last edited by Padillaz; Aug 13, 2014 at 06:45 AM. Reason: hit 5 instead of 4
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