Hi all. First off I'm new here and have done many web searches trying to find the answers to my problems with no real luck. Hoping someone on here might be able to help me out. Secondly I'm not great at cars but know the basics and can usually figure most things out with a little help. My 2000 Honda accord (4Cyl..Auto) is having issues. It is now at the mechanic for the 2nd time!! I trust my mechanic but I'm worried this might even be over his head. I took it to him the other day. He did a tune up and adjusted my timing and reset the CEL light. I drove it about 70 miles for a weekend trip. The car drove PERFECTLY fine. Not one issue..Until the check engine light came on again about 20 miles from home. The car lost a lot of power. never died but could barely climb a hill or get going at stop lights. If I applied gas to try to get it going it would jerk and pull like it was going to die. so back to the mechanic it went. The last time I took the car to the mechanic the CEL was on also..He pulled the code and couldn't figure it out and called several Honda dealerships and they said they'd never heard of the code either. I never did get my hands on this code but it sure sounds odd to me?? Anyone else ever heard of this?? I'm frustrated and not sure where to go with the car or if my mechanic is going to be able to get the job done. I just keep shelling out money without any real definite fixes. Thanks for any thoughts or ideas in advance. Oh and I was wondering. Can a bad distributor cause your CEL to come on and make the car jerk around like that when trying to climb hills or even get up to highway speeds?

 

to pull CEL codes there is a blue connector under the glove box passenger side. there are two blue connectors a 3 pin and a 2 pin. u want to 2 pin. stick a paper clip or similar metal object in there and turn the key to the "ON" position. this will cause the CEL light to flash showing u the code. record it and post any and all of the codes and someone will help.


PS a bad dizzy will cause many problems

 

Hi. Thanks for your response. Just picked up my car from mechanic. He cannot figure it out. Pulled code from car but he didn't write it down and.couldn't find any info about code.again and said honda wouldn't tell him jack..so the first code honda hadn't even heard of and this code (which he didn't write down so i don't have it) was top secret apparently. He reset it and cleared the code. Check engine light is off now and car is running great. Has plenty of acceleration..no jerking..like last time..until cel cam back on...any idea where to go from here???

 

Pull the code using the instructions given to you. Or take your car to another mechanic and ask them to pull it for you.

I wouldnt trust the original mechanic anymore.

 

Hi all. Got the code today at parts store after CEL came back on. Code is P1382---says code definition is Camshaft position sensor...What is this? What needs to be replaced?? Any and all help would be appreciated. thanks in advance

 

on ur camshaft there should be a connector. more than likely it is on the dizzy side of the camshaft since it normally sits near the cap and rotor and ignition coil. but it could also be on the cam sprocket side, im not too familiar with 6th gen (1998-2002) it is likely shorting or not properly connected. download a FSM for the exact location. i would suggest u pick up a OEM one from Honda even if its kinda expensive

 

6th generation (1998-2002) Accords does not have the blue Service Check Connector.

 

Okay so it doesn't have to do with the.distributor? I looked the code up and just about every answer points to the distributor or wiring of distributor. Oh and i have a small amount of fresh oil daily under distributor. Not under the cap side. It's around the bolts that connect the distributor.

 

Is there any oil inside the distributor ? Is there any red dust or dust of any color inside the distributor?

Yes, if you're not too mechanically inclined to go inside the distibutor, simply replacing the distributor should fix it. Just make sure to transfer each spark plug wire one at a time from the old to the new distributor so you don't mess up the firing order and you should be fine.

You could first try looking at the distributor connectors for any loose or broken wires or connections first.

Also, your ignition timing is completely non adjustable so if he told you he did that he lied to you. Again, I will reiterate I wouldn't trust that first mechanic anymore.