Help with overheating/misfire problem
Here's the problem I'm having. My civic started to overheat at low speeds. It then started misfiring and threw a code for cylinder 1 misfire (71). My coolant was low when I checked it. I have water in my coolant system and not antifreeze. I don't see any signs of oil in the coolant system. I checked the oil and it seems like its a thinner consistency then normal. I tried to bleed the air out of my coolant system. When I started up the car coolant shot out of the radiator. I read on another post this was a sign of a bad head gasket. I plan on compression testing the coolant system in the morning when the auto parts stores open to test for any leaks. I do not see any visible leaks without compression testing it. I am pretty sure I have a blown head gasket but would like any advice on how to tell before I go ripping the head off. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
How do you know its not distilled water and he's from Mexico Markus?
OP, try looking down the spark plug tubes with em removed. If the pistons are clean, thats an easy way to tell. There's no way a Honda piston would be clean, they enjoy burning oil very much.
OP, try looking down the spark plug tubes with em removed. If the pistons are clean, thats an easy way to tell. There's no way a Honda piston would be clean, they enjoy burning oil very much.
Ok so here's what I have done and found. I went to NAPA and bought a block tester. The color changed from blue to green so it's picking up a leak. Not good. I guess it's time for a head gasket change. Going to pick up an OEM head gasket, ARP head studs, and get the head milled.
Ok so here's what I have done and found. I went to NAPA and bought a block tester. The color changed from blue to green so it's picking up a leak. Not good. I guess it's time for a head gasket change. Going to pick up an OEM head gasket, ARP head studs, and get the head milled.
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Yeah I know better than to use water. I got sloppy. I'm ordering all the parts today. Talked to the machine shop. They are going to charge me $50 to mill the head and to make sure the head isn't twisted and causing the valves not to seat.
See how much it is for them to pressure test the head... could be worth peace of mind (and if it fails, would save you much headache).
Yes pressure test the hell out of that head. If it checks out, replace valve guides and seals, mill head etc. I would also use a dealer head gasket, and spray cooper permatrix on head gasket before installing. I would even go as far has ordering new head bolts from the dealer. Use honda blue coolant with distilled water. Also add a new dealer thermostat. If your going to do something do it right the first time.
Ok parts have been ordered. I got an OEM head gasket. I'll have it tomorrow. I ordered ARP head studs. They should be here in two days. I didn't want to pay $30+ for overnight shipping. I got a new OEM cam seal. Mine leaks a little bit. Since I'm pulling the cam out for the machine shop to mill the head I'm going to go ahead and replace that. The Honda dealer has valve seals in stock if i end up needing to replace them. Should have the head off this afternoon and to the machine shop.
Yes pressure test the hell out of that head. If it checks out, replace valve guides and seals, mill head etc. I would also use a dealer head gasket, and spray cooper permatrix on head gasket before installing. I would even go as far has ordering new head bolts from the dealer. Use honda blue coolant with distilled water. Also add a new dealer thermostat. If your going to do something do it right the first time.
Is copper spray really necessary on a fairly stock y8?
I was just going to inspect the valve seals and guides after I pulled off the head and replace them if needed? Should I go ahead and do that if the head is still good?
I'm going to be using ARP head studs instead of OEM head bolts.
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91civicEX
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Oct 17, 2003 04:00 PM



