To start i know there is a lot of information out there about H series heads on F series blocks but would just like some help with my specific plans. And no i do not want to do a full H22 swap because i like different. So basically I have a 1996 Honda Accord EX F22B1. I have a simple I/H/E, Bisimoto stage 2 cam, and a rebuilt bottom end. Thought that i was done but me being me needed something different. So i decided to go with the H22 head swap with no boost. So far i have a fully rebuilt H22 head out of a 94 Prelude with a new distributor, vtec solenoid, and spark plug wires. I know i will need a H22 IM, H22 header, H22 water pump gear, and H22 timing belt. Other than all of that I'm stuck. Haven't started the build yet because i want to get everything together before i start, so some help on what all i will need and what all modifications will need to be done to make everything work would be great. Thank you

 

Sounds like you need a headgasket,an ecu a vtec oil line kit and some wiring!! Also the downpipe will be different.an injector resistor box or obd2 injectors and obd2 to obd1 conversion harness..maybe that helped?

 

Research and see if the oil pathways in the head match up to the block, you may need to do a lot more than a vtec oil line kit. Some extensive machining may have to be done if they don't

 

There's only a few more items & steps. First you need to block the two oil drain holes closest to the timing belt in the head, then use a F23 head gasket. Second you'll need to remove the plug in the block for vtec oil flow (directly above oil filter on the block's head gasket surface), which you can see done in D15 "mini-me" vtec head swaps. Third you'll need an H22 timing pulley on the crank instead of the f22 pulley. Fourth you will need the F22's water pump tube mated to the H22 water tube. Some people weld them together, some people use radiator hose and clamps.

The down side to this swap is you'll drop half a point of compression. You might make the same power (with stock H22 cams) with a higher redline and a stronger low-end. The lvl2 cam has a similar profile to the H22 vtec lobes. One way to help overall is to bump the compression with a 1-layer head gasket (8.7:1) or mill the head 0.035" (9:1). The quench pads in the h22 head are recessed about 0.045", so you'd end up with a relatively safe 0.034" piston to head clearance. The nice thing is you can probably use 87oct safely. Tuning won't be that far from an H22, so a tune won't be 100% necessary.

 

Dang, Hiprofile with the goods!

 

Thanks for all the info its really appreciated. but I'm pretty sure my block is already set up for vtec if not that plug is no problem to remove, i was also going to go on a limb despite what people say and try and bore my stock sleeves to 87mm for the h22 pistons. Ive heard of some people doing it in N/A builds and it actually working, just a thought for a better CR. I put it in a calculator and it would give me around 11:1 with the stock f22b1 crank and rods. Also what is the best way to plug those oil drain passages?

 

So just figured out the head i have is the JDM H22A head is it identical to the usdm? And does anyone know were i can get an h22 crank timing pulley, h22 water pipe, and a cheap used h22 water pump?

 

Don't skimp on things like the water pump dude. Those three things should all be found new, and at lower than dealer prices, at BKHondaparts.com

 

Im not i plan on purchasing a new f22b1 water pump but i just need a cheap used h22 one with the gear in good shape because i have to swap the two gears out

 

Ah gotcha

 

as a side note, I have seen stock h22 heads with the quench depths varied from .020-.050. Whether this is due to core shift during casting or what but its definitely there and I have confirmed this on a few heads. Just something that really needs to be double checked and corrected if necessary

 

Don't want to sound stupid but what is quench depth? And anyone got any ideas on how to plug those oil drain passages on the head?

 

I probably won't get started on this build for another 4 or 5 months until i get some money for parts and time to do it but here is my planned set up:

- JDM H22a head
- F22B1 block bored to 87mm
- F22B1 crank and rods
- H22 pistons
- H23 oem head gasket
- H22 Rosko Racing Euro R intake manifold bored to 68mm
- 68mm throttle body
- H22 megan racing header
- Custom 2.5" stainless straight pipe cat back
- Fidanza aluminum flywheel
- F22 transmission
- p13 ECU (hondata s300 later down the road)

So thats just my planned set up, some of it might change when i get to it and idk what that would run me hp wise but should be a good N/A set up. Only running the F22 transmission to save money since i already have it but might go with a H22 or H23 LSD with a final drive swap later down the road. Also might do a DIY write up while I'm doing it since there is not a straight forward one out there. Any opinions?

 

If there aren't any straightforward writeups, do one. It's fun, and nice to give back to the community.

My opinions:

Ditch the Megan header. Gains from it will be little if any over stock. Instead, might I suggest doing the 2.5" collector mod. This may only be cost effective if you can get the labor for cheap, or can weld it yourself (honestly, a simple welding like this shouldn't take much practice). But it would definitely be better than spending on a Megan and seeing no gains, IMO

I think you've got the right idea for TB size.

I'm going to warn you about aluminum flywheels. There are horror stories out there. The flywheel body is aluminum, but the ring gear is steel. When the flywheel heats up from use, the aluminum will expand faster and more than the steel ring gear, causing the flywheel to separate from the ring gear, rendering your car useless. It doesn't always happen, but it has.
A safer idea might be a lightweight steel flywheel. These can be had as low as 9lbs, I think, from Competition Clutch or Clutchmasters. I have a CC 10lb in mine.

Finally, you will probably need a tune, or at the least a basemap, depending on how far off those bottom end internals will be

 

Im actually in school for welding right now, but i would rather have a stainless header. if i was too get a header what brand would you recommend? And my local tuner only tunes with hondata so I'm pretty sure i will do my initial start up on a stock ecu but then get a hondata s300 in a p28 and have it tuned before i start driving it. How do you post pictures on here?

 

Do you have the pics on your computer, or on an iPhone?

The thing about the stainless header is, if you don't get on with at least a 2.5" collector the will be no gains for your money. You can still do the mod to the stainless header, but that would be even more money. What is your budget for the header? Last I remember, a Megan ran 250-300$ at Andy's auto sport, I think.

 

Not true at all. 2.5" is more than big enough for even race motors. Header design is different than the rest of the exhaust.

Just so you know, majority of the all motor race cars making well over 300whp don't even run a collector choke that big.

Whole lot more to power production in a header than the collector, however, I will say most people probably couldnt tell me where the collector actually is. A lot of people think the end of the header is the collector and they would be wrong.

Runner size, length, collector entry angle, collector choke diameter, and a good bit more goes into creating a great header design.

Megan is basically a stock replacement.

 

i have the pictures on my computer

 

So what header would you recommend that has decent gains but is not to expensive?

 

It is very true.

It has been shown many times that eBay/DC/Megan headers benefit from a 2.5" "collector." No, you aren't welding on a totally different collector, but simply a larger "exhaust pipe" for the gasses to merge in to.

The stock design benefits from this. And since you say Megan is a stock replacement, so would it.

Obviously a lot more than you and I even know goes into header design, math formulas that we may never know etc. But for this stock replacement, the collector mod is as good as it gets.

 

Replica headers are what you're looking at. 350-$450 range for one most likely (shipping not included).

On computer is easy. Click the "go advanced" button. Next find and click the "manage attachments" button. Then click the "browse" button, and find the picture on your computer and select it. Finally, click upload then send your message. I found all this on my own, I thought it was pretty self-explanatory lol

 

i figured it out right after i asked you but thanks. And when my head was being shipped fedex broke the breather nipple off of the valve cover and I've been trying to pull it out but there is just not enough there to do that so I'm going to have to drill it. Does anyone know were i can get a new one?

 

99% positive those nipples aren't sold separately. Drill it, tap it, screw in an AN fitting

 

So I have been researching for the past week or so and saw something about cryo treating. Was thinking and if i get my whole bottom end cryo treated would it be able to handle the H22 redline? If not what would i have to do?

And also looking at this header don't know if it would be good for my set up or not:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300746871974?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT