kenneth4g4d

So i've been having cold start issues on my b18a1 swapped 89 si hatchback. I replaced the ECT sensor yesterday and i "redid" the vacuum lines to make sure i was right. When i had most of the lines open it fired right up and i tried my best to make sure i had the hooked up similiar to my 92 integra. The intake manifolds are different (not sure why one is a 92 gs other is a 93 gs) so i kinda guessed and got it to idle correctly. I let it sit for 4 hours and tried to start it again and same BS as before. It takes a long time cranking to fire when it does fire up and run after a few tries if u touch the gas pedal itll bog down and stall. If u let it sit for a few mins itll run fine. So i took some pics of my lines to see what i might have messed up.Any imput would be greatly appreciated.

kenneth4g4d

well i replaced every single vacuum line since they were old and used, some how i managed to unhook 2 plug wires off the distributor. Tried to crank it a few times (long times thinking i had the same cold start problem so i could get it to run and do a vacuum leak again), managed to flood it. Let it sit for a good 30-40 mins with no plugs in it, and still wont fire up. Ugh this thing is just irritating me, cant do my big break (DA front/rear hubs) if i cant even get it to run....Semi-Rant over.

kenneth4g4d

Well main relay seems to be shot, wonder if it was the culprit mixed with the possible leaks. It gives the first click when u turn the key but not the loud second one. Tried the one from my DA but i think it may be different can't remember.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

I am having the same one-click issue with the main relay. Could be the fuel pump/ground. Have you checked to hear the fuel pump prime? It's a 2-man operation if you are unfamiliar with the sound. It's pretty faint on a stock car.

As for the vacuum lines: Check your MAP sensor for good vacuum source. The IACV could also give you some weird issues on cold start. What ECU are you running?

I would make sure you eliminate any open vacuum lines to prevent leaks. Cap anything you don't use.

kenneth4g4d

yea i redid all the lines and no the fuel pump doesnt prime (hard to hear over the fan turning on). There shouldnt be any leaks but i believe its something with my toggle switches for my push button start. If i mess with the wires i get the 2nd click so once my food is done imma go redo the switches for a more solid connection and then see what happens.

ECU - obd1 p74 i believe (obd1 ls)

kenneth4g4d

Got the switches redone and the main relay fully functions now, got it to fire did a vacuum leak test on all the vacuum lines and everything passed. But when its cold it still bogs down when i touch the gas.

TPS? I unplugged it while it was running (cold) and it didnt do anything, its the kinda where its made into the TB so i cant pull it off to test it better

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Should unscrew from the TB, right? You can use a firewall mounted TPS too though. If you have the stock one, give it a shot. Maybe the TPS wires weren't swapped or something?

kenneth4g4d

Doesn't look like it will but with the Tb on the car it's hard to tell. And i double checked the wires and the line up at the ecu so idk

b20c

Only vac lines u need is one to the map sensor, and one to the fuel pressure regulator and the brake booster. Take all them hardlines off and just run them two. Unplug the little thing the map is screwed to and get rid of it. Just ziptie map somewhere. U only need two vac lines, then cap all other manifold ports. U can remove the thngs connected to the throttle rotor that's screwed onto the manifold then plug their hooles on the manifold. Its simple.

kenneth4g4d

Thanks i may do that to clean it up a bit, as of now i have them finally hooked up good i believe

br8crumb

get yourself a b18b1 throttle body or aftermarket like skunk2 etc... you can remove all of those vac lines that do absolutely nothing..... will just be running brake booster/pcv/fpr line and the other 100 vac lines can go in the trash lol. downside is u need a tb mounted map sensor unless u block off and run a vac line with map on firewall

*rant of my own* why was this thread not moved... ******* b18a1 is integra and in the crx forum. singles me out for no god damn reason mods dont realise obd0 b18a1 the most common swap for crx's -.-

kenneth4g4d

well its not just a CRX forum its also EF which is what the motor is in, but i did recently move a few questions to the Integra forums. But with it being swapped in an EF i thought it made more sense asking about this here do due to different purge solenoids on the firewall and how its wired. But ive asked on the Integra forums and im getting better help with it on here. But i am thinking about removing alot of the vacuum lines to make it not look clunky. Ty for your imput.

HiProfile

If the FPR and MAP sensor have working vac lines and you don't have a surging idle, then it's probably NOT related to your vacuum lines. I know those motors used that weird "dashpot" thing, which hooks to the TB pulley for cold-start reasons, but I've never actually run an obd0 car for more than a few miles (obd1 swap, always).

It does look like the vac accessory to the right of the dashpot has a hose unconnected, could that be an issues? I though that has something to do with idle as well. It's called the "air boost" valve.

kenneth4g4d

Yea there isnt any lines uphooked for vacuum related (all have been leak checked and pass). Its OBD1 swapped but all the lines are hooked up and working (idk why it has the air-boost valve on a OBD1 ls, maybe its a swaped intake with a egr valve from auto idk) i believe the lines are fixed im still working a cold start issue but i have a thread on integra forums about it:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/cold-start-issues-3220885/

kenneth4g4d

issue fixed for now it seems, took the egr valve off and made a temp plate and it fired right up and ran fine so only time will see.