i took my car in to get a smog and while they were doing the smog my heater hose busted so it overheated, but i fixed the hose, but i got the report back and it failed the low rpm test, but passed the high rpm test. on the list of test it passed all but the "ignition timing: TDC" and it says it "failed the ignition timing check due to engine rpm being out of tolerance" it runs fine doesnt seem like the timings off but any help would be appreciated thanks

95 accord lx 2.2 4cyl A/T

 

Its possible the out of limit is the fact that they couldnt do a proper test with the hose breaking

 

get a timing light and adjust the timing. the distributor can rotate to advance and retard timing. very simple if u do it right

 

This sounds correct to me. You need to work on why you failed the 1500 rpm test. Post a detailed picture of the report.

 

If you try to adjust the timing - be sure you jump the service connector when checking or adjusting the timing.

 

 

Your idle rpm is out of spec, either too high or too low. Also honda's timing is not tdc it is either 12,15,16, or 18 btdc. Sounds like you took it to a rookie.....

 

yeah it was idling at over 1000 i just adjusted it now its 650 700, i dont have my timing light, but i tried turning my distributor and anywhere i turn it, it either laggs if i turn it clockwise at all and if i turn it ccw it gets kinda jumps every like 5 secs or so (im guessing a miss due to advancing the dist.) so i dont think the distributor needs to be turned so hopefully itll pass now that the idles adjusted

thanks alot

 

and now they wont retest my car until i do a diagnosis and see whats wrong, they just want money cos they wont tell me anything not even what caused water to get everywhere, "they didnt know" so im wondering if i should just take it somewhere else

 

Ok you gotta stick a paperclip into the blue service connector located in the passenger side floor dash area to adjust the timing or you be fighting the ecu.

When you jump the service connector the check engine light will turn on solid which is normal.

 

ok will do that thanks, im sure you saw the pic of my report, it also says high co%

 

I would replace the oxygen sensor with a Denso.

 

The tech states that it was at tdc and if that is the case that might just cause a CO failure. Find a timing light!!

 

got a timing light and now its timed and the idles adjusted, but now it lags alot when i accelerate

 

plugs and wires. NGK G-power ($3 each) and NGK or Denso wires

ur dizzy was out of timing who knows what else was neglected

 

i got new plugs but not wires, the car doesnt lag at all when i advance the timing but when its on time is when it lags but once it gets to like 10 15 it picks up fine

 

Im curious if you valve lash is set correctly. If the timing is correct then the car should be what I would think would be optimal.

 

valves are to spec as well, when i advance the timing it accelerates and runs fine, but then the timing is off

 

You are running rich, probably 13:1 with the lack of ODeuce.
CO2 should be in the 15% ideally.

If your idle is still hunting check your FITV and IAC as per the FAQ at the top of the page.
Check your plug gap, if it is too big it will also cause some slight hunting/vibration at idle.

Lack of O2 is causing a lack of O2/CO2 and increase of CO, since there is no O2 too combine with.

When you fix the problem, the other emissions may increase, but will be at an acceptable level.
If your NOx goes through the roof, you may need to clean the EGR manifold that is bolted to the intake manifold, under the fuel rail.

 

a few weeks ago i did get to my FITV and tightened the plastic screw down all the way (which was maybe one turn) maybe i should unscrew it back to where it was
cleaned my IACV
and I havent checked the gap in my plugs since i didnt put em in i can see the person putting it in thinking its ok cos their "pre gapped"
and i also cleaned my EGR too

 

remove the negative battery cable for 20 sec. it will reset the ECU now that ur timing is correct and will have a blank basemap to record ur acceration and driving habits with

 

i did that as well, it only accelerates normal when i advance the distributor, but like i said then its out of time

 

check the ohms on ur wires. u will need a multimeter. new wires should be 1.xx-2.xx some wires wont even give u a reading (broken inside) general rule is under 25,000 ohms is acceptable

or maybe its the FITV

 

but if the wires were bad would it still respond better when advanced wouldnt it still lag?

 

next on your tune-up to-do list is a cap and rotor and you still need a Denso oxygen sensor