I need someone to come help me on this dang car guys. Its a 93 accord 5 speed ex. It's got a f22a7 in it. I do have some mechanical ability but it's not with Hondas mainly just jeeps & 4x4s. I had someone doing the work and they don't seem to know what the hell they are doing. He was a friend of a friend....huge mistake.
Car ran fine when it was bought about 2 weeks ago but leaked in a few spots. So it started by me wanting to do a pan & valve cover gasket that leaked like crazy... and I was more or less pushed/conned into believing this guy knew what he was doing & did a timing belt & water pump. We used oem honda parts. He did set the car at tdc from the best I can tell..I did the screw driver in the spark plug hole & watched it stop moving till it was at tdc. The cam looks to be at tdc the best I can tell by checking the marks, but it could be a tooth off or so.

Here's the issue. The car won't freaking start. Guys long gone won't answer, nothing.
I can't hear the fuel pump & these no spark. I swapped the coil & still nothing. Dizzy swapped, still nothing. Ecu swapped with a p06 still nothing. I checked the main fuse thing that goes out from time to time and it isn't cracked, actually it's been solder over already.
So I'm just ******* stuck. Is there anyone local to SoCal who can come by and check this damn thing out? I can pay for your time & labor. Car is located at 92395 victorville.

 

You just need to check and see if the cam and crank are lined up properly. They would really have to be off by a couple teeth or so in order for it not to start. Turn the crank with a 19mm socket counterclockwise. You want the line up the 0 mark at the flywheel through the peak hole in the block so that it it's basically in the middle of the two notches. When you do, the arrow on the camshaft should be pointing up and the two lines on the sides should be lined up with the head/timing cover after removing the valve cover. This seems kinda hard but it's not. This is the least you should do to see if he screwed up the mechanical timing. Being off by a couple teeth will keep the car from starting but it won't cause any damage. You will just need to line it back up and you will be fine again. No big deal. So don't panic. If you want, line them both up and then take a picture of both and let us see both the cam and the crank.

 

The flywheel marks shouldn't matter? The flywheel can be taken off and put on at a different rotation or mark thus not lining up anymore?
Is there some cam sensor or something on the flywheel that picks up a signal? I know my jeep has that. However if the #1 piston is at tdc & the cam is all lined up, flywheel marks shouldn't matter.

 

You can only put the flywheel on one way and you dont have a crank sensor at the crank.

Its best to use the marks rather than the screwdriver method, especially for a firsttimer.

 

So if there's no sensor on the flywheel the flywheel orientation or marks don't matter for fuel or spark? And no the flywheel can go on at a different rotation is what I ment...such as it was at 12 o'clock when pulled but put back on at 2 o'clock thus the marks wouldn't line up with the crank at tdc anymore...

Anyway. Tdc on cly #1 has been set 3 times now. Cam set at tdc as well. Ecu 10A fuse in fuse box replaced although it wasn't blown. Main relay soldered, used different main relay, tryed different ecu, tryed different coil & dizzy. No fuel pump no spark.

I'm stumped officially seeing as everyone says it can only be those 4 different items. What else could be causing this guys?

 

The flywheel has a notch in that that can only go on the crank in one way. Period. End of story. If you want, you can pull the tranny to check for yourself if you don't believe because it sounds like you're trying to tell me what the deal is instead of asking.

TDC for the #1 cylinder can be for two different strokes so it's actually possible for it to be off. I would have a hard time believing it's going to be on the wrong stroke but considering you had someone that has no clue I wouldn't be surprised. If you actually looked at the flywheel you can be totally sure. It's not hard to look at the flywheel through the peek hole. At tdc it should be at the 0 mark through the two peek hole notches.

If it's all good report back and we can go from there, but it's weird that you're not getting any spark. Even if the timing is off it should still have spark.

 

Pro I was told the flywheel orientation shouldn't matter on cb7tuner but when I googled it there's a little peg.
And ya this guy has me pissed! Just went out and checked everything out. I pulled #1 plug and placed my hand over the hole until I felt pressure building (compression stroke) & then physically watched the piston until it reached TDC. I'm watching it come to and then pass tdc and I'm setting it directly at tdc where it stops moving, So its at tdc now for sure.
This is how the flywheel looks. The tdc mark is a bit off which is seen here.


Also cam looks at least 5 teeth off. I'm going to go snap a pic of it. And I'll post it right now as well.

 

Cam pulley. Looks to be about 2 teeth off honestly. The up mark is pointing between 12 & 1 o'clock.


So how is this fixed fellas? Motor has 155 psi on cly 1, 2 & 4 & the 3cly has 149psi.

 

pull it off and re do it

 

That sounds informative lol. I've looked up a write up however can anyone provide pics of the crank sprocket and if it has a tdc mark?

Do I just used the flywheel tdc mark?

 

The crank timing pulley has a mark on the oil pump yes.

Yes the flywheel has a peg that goes into the crank or visa versa

 

faq has a thread on how to do timing belt with pictures

 

there should be an adjustment bolt that u can loosen without taking the whole engine apart. it is the bolt for the timing belt tensioners. just loosen it dont remove it all the way. it is designed to adjust the tension on the belt if its loose. that should allow u to re-adjust the belt but make sure ur crank pulley is aligned first

 

Done and done. Timing mark on flywheel lines up pefectly tdc on compression stroke & cam at tdc was about 2-3 teeth off.
Still no start. I'm gonna go nuts here lol. I really do love this style accord as my mom had a few this style.. 88 & 89 actually.

 

Check each and every fuse in the engine bay and down at the driver side kickboard for continuity with a multimeter. It's best to use one with a chime setting.

The first one I would check would be the 15a ecu fuse in the engine bay.

Check that the distributor connectors are plugged in fully.

Check that your main ecu ground at the thermostat housing is attached.

 

Can anyone snap me a pic of this ground because there is not one there. The tstat ground that is?

 

http://techauto.awardspace.com/ecu.html
Towards the middle of the page

 

Well I don't seem to have that ground on my harness.. Its quote odd actually I can't find it anywhere?

 

it has to be there or else the car would have never ran at all!!!!!!!!!! EVER!! it may not be hooked on now. someone may have bolted it to something else

 

Still stuck here at a loss. Ecu stays solid...guessing that's code 0. But I've tryed a different known working ecu.
I don't get it. I don't get why the car won't start.

Tstat ground checked and cleaned. All grounds cleaned. Ecu backup fuse under hood is good and changed a few times. Under dash relay is good. But no fuel no spark still.