tfw didnt get to eat, now im probably going to go catabolic

anyways, didnt have a lot of time to check much, i only have a 30 min lunch. Everything was fine in the morning when i drove to work. The fuel pump primes like usual but it just cranks and cranks, wont fire up.

Base fuel press. is at 42-44 according to the pressure dial. I also replaced the distributor about 6 months ago.


Set up is:

turbo sohc d16zc
1200cc precision turbo injectors
walbro 255lhp
aem fuel filter replaced 3 months ago
blox fpr
fuel is E85

I got a break at 3 oclock and i happen to have my small tool bag (civic first aid kit)with me so i can try to figure out what is going on.

any suggestions?

 

Lol at TFW.

Anyway. You gotta check for the 5 main things first

Air
Fuel
Spark
Timing
Compression

But since you're at work here's some quick steps

do you have a multimeter by any chance?

Make sure the battery is charged.

Spark
Remove plug and connect to cable and ground the electrode and crank the motor watching for spark.

Timing
No real good way to do this quickly but Take off the oil cap make sure the valetrain is moving. The belt could've broke.

Fuel
Removed the return line and check for fuel

Compression:
Remove spark plugs and place your hand over the holes to feel for compression. After doing all four you will notice if one has less pressure then the other

And for air take off the intake and let it breathe

 

I hope it's not the dizzy again

 

Most likely its your battery maybe on its way out or alternator and it didn't have enough voltage to crank over fast enough and from the high amounts of fuel from e85 it flooded the motor. So I would start with taking the plugs out crank it so the fuel gets pushed out. Get someone to give you a jump start.

If that doesn't work do the post I posted first

 

That would suck, i just got it, looks brand new still

Thanks for the reply brah, will give all that a once over once im on break.

 

not getting any spark

 

Could be the key switch or icm out put from ecu

Or coil

Need multimeter from here bruh bruh

 

Did you replace your dizzy with a chiner one?

 

Did you use an OEM replacement, or an "OEM style" replacement? New, used, or reman?

You probably just bought a **** dizzy.

 

It wasnt oem honda, i got it at Vato Zone, brand new.

Just as good r-right guys?





edit: found a multi meter at work!

 

Newp. No where near as good.

Get it warranty'd out.

 

Do you know how to check ur coil?

Check for voltage at the blk/white wire. Its next to the blue rpm signal wire
Check for voltage with the key on and under cranking. Might need two people for this

 

ive never done that before, do i use a multimeter or just s check light

 

tried my old oem distributor after getting towed home and it fired up

 

That's why you don't use a after market dizzy

 

So true! I wish OEM ones were cheaper. Im so close to just going to honda and dropping a lot of money on a new oem dizzy. I think obd1 dizzys are around $480 new.

 

I think they're a little more . You might better off rebuilding yours just find out what part is bad. Or just go to a junk yard or online

 

LOL at that price for a oem dizzy just go c.o.p.

 

It us super expensive even with a workers discounts

 

I hear ya. The one that came with my LS swap had moisture in it and corroded everything inside so I took the internals out of a d series OEM dizzy I got for $5 and swapped over all the internals. I still get a random code 15 (ignition output signal) but I'm pretty sure its just the ICM going bad because the coil is brand new.

 

Been there brah

Y u no coil/icm bypass doe

Dat bih fixed my bucket and saved me 10 percent on my car insurance

 

Lol I've been thinking about it after reading through your thread about better ignition options.

 

Virtually all obd1 & obd2 D/B/F/H distributors are identical inside, only the housing and wire count/connectors are different. Get a working d15 or f22 distributor for near nothing and transfer the parts over. The only thing you have to do afterwards is re-sync the timing.

BTW I had an OEM coil completely die over the corse of a minute (JDM H23A). It ran great, I turned it off and it was dead a minute later when I started cranking the engine again. It was just slightly off spec from the measurements in the Helms manual. I slapped in a coil from a d15 and it fired right up.