I wanted to go get lunch but car didnt wanna start
07-25-2014, 12:34 PM
#1
I wanted to go get lunch but car didnt wanna start
tfw didnt get to eat, now im probably going to go catabolic 
anyways, didnt have a lot of time to check much, i only have a 30 min lunch. Everything was fine in the morning when i drove to work. The fuel pump primes like usual but it just cranks and cranks, wont fire up.
Base fuel press. is at 42-44 according to the pressure dial. I also replaced the distributor about 6 months ago.
Set up is:
turbo sohc d16zc
1200cc precision turbo injectors
walbro 255lhp
aem fuel filter replaced 3 months ago
blox fpr
fuel is E85
I got a break at 3 oclock and i happen to have my small tool bag (civic first aid kit)with me so i can try to figure out what is going on.
any suggestions?
anyways, didnt have a lot of time to check much, i only have a 30 min lunch. Everything was fine in the morning when i drove to work. The fuel pump primes like usual but it just cranks and cranks, wont fire up.
Base fuel press. is at 42-44 according to the pressure dial. I also replaced the distributor about 6 months ago.
Set up is:
turbo sohc d16zc
1200cc precision turbo injectors
walbro 255lhp
aem fuel filter replaced 3 months ago
blox fpr
fuel is E85
I got a break at 3 oclock and i happen to have my small tool bag (civic first aid kit)with me so i can try to figure out what is going on.
any suggestions?
07-25-2014, 01:28 PM
#2
B*a*n*n*e*d
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: montebello, ca, us
Posts: 6,632
Likes: 0
Received 15 Likes
on
10 Posts
Lol at TFW.
Anyway. You gotta check for the 5 main things first
Air
Fuel
Spark
Timing
Compression
But since you're at work here's some quick steps
do you have a multimeter by any chance?
Make sure the battery is charged.
Spark
Remove plug and connect to cable and ground the electrode and crank the motor watching for spark.
Timing
No real good way to do this quickly but Take off the oil cap make sure the valetrain is moving. The belt could've broke.
Fuel
Removed the return line and check for fuel
Compression:
Remove spark plugs and place your hand over the holes to feel for compression. After doing all four you will notice if one has less pressure then the other
And for air take off the intake and let it breathe
Anyway. You gotta check for the 5 main things first
Air
Fuel
Spark
Timing
Compression
But since you're at work here's some quick steps
do you have a multimeter by any chance?
Make sure the battery is charged.
Spark
Remove plug and connect to cable and ground the electrode and crank the motor watching for spark.
Timing
No real good way to do this quickly but Take off the oil cap make sure the valetrain is moving. The belt could've broke.
Fuel
Removed the return line and check for fuel
Compression:
Remove spark plugs and place your hand over the holes to feel for compression. After doing all four you will notice if one has less pressure then the other
And for air take off the intake and let it breathe
07-25-2014, 01:34 PM
#4
B*a*n*n*e*d
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: montebello, ca, us
Posts: 6,632
Likes: 0
Received 15 Likes
on
10 Posts
Most likely its your battery maybe on its way out or alternator and it didn't have enough voltage to crank over fast enough and from the high amounts of fuel from e85 it flooded the motor. So I would start with taking the plugs out crank it so the fuel gets pushed out. Get someone to give you a jump start.
If that doesn't work do the post I posted first
If that doesn't work do the post I posted first
07-25-2014, 01:49 PM
#5
Re: I wanted to go get lunch but car didnt wanna start
That would suck, i just got it, looks brand new still
Thanks for the reply brah, will give all that a once over once im on break.
Most likely its your battery maybe on its way out or alternator and it didn't have enough voltage to crank over fast enough and from the high amounts of fuel from e85 it flooded the motor. So I would start with taking the plugs out crank it so the fuel gets pushed out. Get someone to give you a jump start.
If that doesn't work do the post I posted first
If that doesn't work do the post I posted first
Trending Topics
07-25-2014, 03:10 PM
#12
B*a*n*n*e*d
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: montebello, ca, us
Posts: 6,632
Likes: 0
Received 15 Likes
on
10 Posts
Do you know how to check ur coil?
Check for voltage at the blk/white wire. Its next to the blue rpm signal wire
Check for voltage with the key on and under cranking. Might need two people for this
Check for voltage at the blk/white wire. Its next to the blue rpm signal wire
Check for voltage with the key on and under cranking. Might need two people for this
07-26-2014, 09:07 PM
#16
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 1,892
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
07-26-2014, 10:01 PM
#17
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: central valley
Posts: 2,160
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: I wanted to go get lunch but car didnt wanna start
I think they're a little more . You might better off rebuilding yours just find out what part is bad. Or just go to a junk yard or online
07-27-2014, 07:16 AM
#20
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 1,892
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: I wanted to go get lunch but car didnt wanna start
I hear ya. The one that came with my LS swap had moisture in it and corroded everything inside so I took the internals out of a d series OEM dizzy I got for $5 and swapped over all the internals. I still get a random code 15 (ignition output signal) but I'm pretty sure its just the ICM going bad because the coil is brand new.
07-27-2014, 08:45 AM
#22
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 1,892
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
07-27-2014, 09:56 AM
#23
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: b00sting my D16s, SoWis, USA
Posts: 7,015
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
5 Posts
Re: I wanted to go get lunch but car didnt wanna start
Virtually all obd1 & obd2 D/B/F/H distributors are identical inside, only the housing and wire count/connectors are different. Get a working d15 or f22 distributor for near nothing and transfer the parts over. The only thing you have to do afterwards is re-sync the timing.
BTW I had an OEM coil completely die over the corse of a minute (JDM H23A). It ran great, I turned it off and it was dead a minute later when I started cranking the engine again. It was just slightly off spec from the measurements in the Helms manual. I slapped in a coil from a d15 and it fired right up.
BTW I had an OEM coil completely die over the corse of a minute (JDM H23A). It ran great, I turned it off and it was dead a minute later when I started cranking the engine again. It was just slightly off spec from the measurements in the Helms manual. I slapped in a coil from a d15 and it fired right up.
07-27-2014, 10:12 AM
#24
B*a*n*n*e*d
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: montebello, ca, us
Posts: 6,632
Likes: 0
Received 15 Likes
on
10 Posts
Virtually all obd1 & obd2 D/B/F/H distributors are identical inside, only the housing and wire count/connectors are different. Get a working d15 or f22 distributor for near nothing and transfer the parts over. The only thing you have to do afterwards is re-sync the timing.
BTW I had an OEM coil completely die over the corse of a minute (JDM H23A). It ran great, I turned it off and it was dead a minute later when I started cranking the engine again. It was just slightly off spec from the measurements in the Helms manual. I slapped in a coil from a d15 and it fired right up.
BTW I had an OEM coil completely die over the corse of a minute (JDM H23A). It ran great, I turned it off and it was dead a minute later when I started cranking the engine again. It was just slightly off spec from the measurements in the Helms manual. I slapped in a coil from a d15 and it fired right up.