h22a cam sugestions
i need some sugjestions on some cams. here is the calculations from my block with a bone stock head
http://www.zealautowerks.com/advance....00,9500,863,0
also here is a parts list:
stock crank 90.7mm
Skunk2 alpha rods part number 306-05-1170
Mahle 11.5:1 compression 87mm pistons
ks-tuned b/s delete
i guess what my question is if i go to big of a cam such as skunk2 pro3 cam or Brian Crower stage 3. will those be too big for this setup? as far as drive ability i will be driving this thing probably once every month or so? also i might add my block was balanced to 9500 rpm.
any help is appreciated! thanks
http://www.zealautowerks.com/advance....00,9500,863,0
also here is a parts list:
stock crank 90.7mm
Skunk2 alpha rods part number 306-05-1170
Mahle 11.5:1 compression 87mm pistons
ks-tuned b/s delete
i guess what my question is if i go to big of a cam such as skunk2 pro3 cam or Brian Crower stage 3. will those be too big for this setup? as far as drive ability i will be driving this thing probably once every month or so? also i might add my block was balanced to 9500 rpm.
any help is appreciated! thanks
Properly degreed and tuned Skunk2 Pro1 cams will most likely get you the best results. I would almost be willing to put money on it. There are going to be people that say that the Pro2's will be a better option, and they might be right. The Pro2's might make more peak WHP on that set-up, but in my opinion I think that if it happens, it will only be for a couple hundred RPMs, while the rest of the time the Pro1's would beat them by a substantial margin. Really, there is a possibility that the Pro1s will even make more peak WHP over the Pro2's. I could be wrong, I'll admit that. However in my experience the Pro1's are very underrated and really do well in mild set-ups like yours. I have seen Pro1's break 250 WHP on a stock bottom end with a ported head, good intake, and exhaust.
Just make sure that you have a good intake and exhaust to let the engine breathe.
Also consider running a ported head (I have one for sale/trade). If you got the cash, get an RLZ or 4 Piston, you will see substantial gains from either of those heads.
Pro3 would be a stupid choice... stay away from that. Same with any Crower cam IMO. Your best bet is between the Pro1 and Pro2.
Just make sure that you have a good intake and exhaust to let the engine breathe.
Also consider running a ported head (I have one for sale/trade). If you got the cash, get an RLZ or 4 Piston, you will see substantial gains from either of those heads.
Pro3 would be a stupid choice... stay away from that. Same with any Crower cam IMO. Your best bet is between the Pro1 and Pro2.
Properly degreed and tuned Skunk2 Pro1 cams will most likely get you the best results. I would almost be willing to put money on it. There are going to be people that say that the Pro2's will be a better option, and they might be right. The Pro2's might make more peak WHP on that set-up, but in my opinion I think that if it happens, it will only be for a couple hundred RPMs, while the rest of the time the Pro1's would beat them by a substantial margin. I could be wrong, I'll admit that. However in my experience the Pro1's are very underrated and really do well in mild set-ups like yours.
Pro3 would be a stupid choice.
Pro3 would be a stupid choice.
i think it depends on the use of the car. having tried pro 2 cams on h series, and now back to stock cams, i have to say stock cams outweigh the skunk cams. Its hard to beat the smoothness of oem cams. But Im mostly freeway cruising with a bit of lapping days too. obviously for drag racing, which is popular here you want to be cammed out and pressured up. my opinion.
i think it depends on the use of the car. having tried pro 2 cams on h series, and now back to stock cams, i have to say stock cams outweigh the skunk cams. Its hard to beat the smoothness of oem cams. But Im mostly freeway cruising with a bit of lapping days too. obviously for drag racing, which is popular here you want to be cammed out and pressured up. my opinion.
I can tell you from my personal history what you might experience. I have used a short block much like you describe for nearly ten years now. It is stuffed with Mahle 11.5:1 87.25mm pistons and Crower MaxLite billet rods... and I still have the balance shafts. With Crower stage 3's, I made 222 WHP on my dyno. When the new Skunk2 Pro series cams were released, I did a comparison test for Skunk and made 229 WHP using their "quick cam" settings. There was no power loss through the entire power band compared to the Crower cams. Neither pair of cams were degreed in. I am now about to try a new set of Crower 3+ cams and I have degreed them. I also chopped up a Skunk2 Intake manifold and shortened the runners to fit in my EG coupe and added a larger throttle body. I hope to see an improvement over the Skunk2 cams.
I can tell you from my personal history what you might experience. I have used a short block much like you describe for nearly ten years now. It is stuffed with Mahle 11.5:1 87.25mm pistons and Crower MaxLite billet rods... and I still have the balance shafts. With Crower stage 3's, I made 222 WHP on my dyno. When the new Skunk2 Pro series cams were released, I did a comparison test for Skunk and made 229 WHP using their "quick cam" settings. There was no power loss through the entire power band compared to the Crower cams. Neither pair of cams were degreed in. I am now about to try a new set of Crower 3+ cams and I have degreed them. I also chopped up a Skunk2 Intake manifold and shortened the runners to fit in my EG coupe and added a larger throttle body. I hope to see an improvement over the Skunk2 cams.
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