B16A oil burn 4000 miles on motor
Compression test 270 on each cylinder. Runs great! Smokes on acceleration. 1qt every 200 miles. 5-30 synthetic Whats wrong?
Dyno tuned at 220RWHP @8200RPM with 93 octane.
Engine b16a block
Eagle stroker crank 3.334 mm over stock
Hbeam rods
JE pistons 13.5.1 comp 82mm bore
Ported and polish b16a head
High tech header 4-2-1-
Exhaust is 2.5 stainless to a vibbrant muffler
Skunk2 valves+springs+retainers
Blox stage C cams 11.5 lift
Buddy club adjustable cam gears
N1 crank pulley
TypeR intake mainifold full ported and polish
Blox 70 mm throttle body
Eagle fuel rail with 550cc injectors
Dyno tuned at 220RWHP @8200RPM with 93 octane.
Engine b16a block
Eagle stroker crank 3.334 mm over stock
Hbeam rods
JE pistons 13.5.1 comp 82mm bore
Ported and polish b16a head
High tech header 4-2-1-
Exhaust is 2.5 stainless to a vibbrant muffler
Skunk2 valves+springs+retainers
Blox stage C cams 11.5 lift
Buddy club adjustable cam gears
N1 crank pulley
TypeR intake mainifold full ported and polish
Blox 70 mm throttle body
Eagle fuel rail with 550cc injectors
He told me he followed the correct break in procedure. Whatever that means. Lets assume the break in was done correctly. Any chance this is the valve stem seals/guides? Even with no smoke on start up? The oil catch can is always empty. I don't know if that means anything.
Many people think they know correct break-in, most people are wrong. Put a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder and repeat the compression test.
It is remotely possible that it's a valve stem seal issue. Is the smoke at certain RPMs when accelerating, or just whenever you have your foot down on the gas?
It is remotely possible that it's a valve stem seal issue. Is the smoke at certain RPMs when accelerating, or just whenever you have your foot down on the gas?
It smokes under light and heavy acceleration. I ran it up to 5000 rpm in 1st gear and let the engine break the motor to 1500 RPM. That creates vacuum. It smoked heavily.
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I highly doubt it is the oil control rings since the engine is so new. I am checking the valve stem seals and valve guides when I get time. Hopefully that is the issue.
how many miles were on the head before you built it up?
im finding more and more that a main issue of oil burning is worn oem valve guides. i mean they havent made b series motors in what 13 years now. the guides get sloppy and it eats up valve seals in short order.
depending on your bearing tolerances you could probably go with something thicker than 5w-30 synth...
im finding more and more that a main issue of oil burning is worn oem valve guides. i mean they havent made b series motors in what 13 years now. the guides get sloppy and it eats up valve seals in short order.
depending on your bearing tolerances you could probably go with something thicker than 5w-30 synth...
Not sure what head work was completed. The previous owner gave me all the receipts and there are none for the head work. Just receipts for the bottom end work. I will try 10-40w until I get time to pull the head off.
thanks guys
thanks guys
Why don't you do a leak down or a wet compression test
before you take it apart?
You're not being very scientific about this.
before you take it apart?
You're not being very scientific about this.
Believe me I know.
OP, if you work through this methodically you'll find your answer and probably learn something to avoid having the same problem in the future.
Conversely, you can throw parts at it and maybe/maybe not get it running right. You will almost definitely spend more money doing it that way, starting with the perfectly good head gasket you're about to throw in the trash.
I also agree with the above posts though, there's a pretty good chance that the rings didn't get seated properly.
OP, if you work through this methodically you'll find your answer and probably learn something to avoid having the same problem in the future.
Conversely, you can throw parts at it and maybe/maybe not get it running right. You will almost definitely spend more money doing it that way, starting with the perfectly good head gasket you're about to throw in the trash.
I also agree with the above posts though, there's a pretty good chance that the rings didn't get seated properly.
Good point. I will not pull the head off. I can check the valve guides and the stem seals without pulling the head. If I see no play in the valves and the seals look good then I know major work needs to be done. Although I heard the seals may look 'good' but still be 'bad'. If that is the case then replacing those will need to happen.
Thanks for your input
Thanks for your input
You're welcome.
If you're going to pull the springs to check play in the stems and you're confident that the seals were not replaced when the head was apart, you might as well put new ones in at that point. They're pretty easy to do.
If you're going to pull the springs to check play in the stems and you're confident that the seals were not replaced when the head was apart, you might as well put new ones in at that point. They're pretty easy to do.
Its rings for sure. Valve seals leak on start up. My car smoked on acceleration, bad in VTEC, idled with no smoke and had perfect compression test. It was rings.
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