My 1992 Accord has been hesitating on acceleration and stalling when engine reaches operating temperature. Also the tachometer is going haywire. I've replaced the distributor (the old one had seized), spark plugs and ignition wires are new but the problem continues to happen. Can anyone help? What should I be checking? I'm on a really tight budget, so I can't just keep swapping out parts.

 

Does the check engine light still work?
Check for codes, check the passenger kick panel, there should be a two wire blue connector. Jumper it with a wire, turn your ignition to II(ON) and watch the appropriate warning lights blink.
CEL for engine
D4 for Trans

Record codes, get back to us.

If your warning lights do not come on, normally when you turn the car to II(ON) then the bulbs may be burnt out or missing.

 

as for the hesitation in acceleration, I had the same problem last week...I changed my fuel filter and the hesitation stopped. (swapped fuel filter and added fuel injection cleaner to the fuel tank)

as for the stalling when warm, I've never come across this issue, so I have no explanation. (mah bad)

The tach going haywire could be caused by a sensor on the trans failing or poor connection. Yet again, I had the same problem, but about a month ago, and I swapped the sensor out (from a junk yard one) and the tach is back to normal.

 

Where is the sensor for the tach located?

 

the sensor for the tach is in the distributor

 

The ignitor is the input for the tach.

 

If you have an automotive volt meter, or an old dwell meter, you can connect these directly to a single wire tach signal test connector. This connector on the PGM-FI is usually a single wire with a blue soft rubber cover on the end of it. On 94-97s it is located near the fuse box on the right side shock tower.

 

So I checked for codes, but my engine light stays solid, it doesn't flash at all. The distributor is 100% brand new, so I don't understand why the tach is still acting up if the igniter is indeed the only thing that controls it. My hesitation and stalling problems are for sure caused by the same thing. When the car warms up the hesitation gets so bad that the car stalls. At idle it runs fine. The fuel filter sounds like a likely culprit, will check that out.

 

My tach reads to low, but the engine runs fine, so I am guessing it is not the igniter. Guess I will change out the tach.

 

Alright after changing the fuel filter, the car stalled again and I was able to get some codes. Engine: 4, 9, 15, 20 Transmission 1, 2, 7, 8

 

4 CKP - crank position sensor
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
15 Ignition output signal
20 Electrical load detector

ELD has me wondering if there is a problem with power or grounds.

Odd that ALL the sensors in the distributor have gone bad at once, I would verify there is not damage to the ignition wire harness.
Quick Diagnostics > http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html
These are the codes relating to the shift solenoids, basically all the codes for the shift solenoids.

Check that the battery has full voltage.
Battery connections are clean and tight.
Verify the main negative/ground to the transmission case is clean and tight(corner of trans near dipstick).
Bonding jumper at engine mount/valve cover is clean and tight.
Verify main engine harness ground at thermostat housing is clean and tight(no fraying).
Check the main positive cable to the fuse box is clean and tight.
Verify all the connectors to the distributor are clean and tight.
Verify when engine is running the alternator is charging correctly, turn on headlights when checking voltage output.

Do you have lots of keys or heavy charm(s) on your key ring? Does the switch feel sloppy?
With the engine running jiggle the key up and down(do not turn) too see if the engine cuts out, if so the ignition switch may simply be bad.
Quick Diagnostics > http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignitionswitch.html

Again I think there is a power distribution problem, check your ignition switch/wiring.

 

Cleaned and tightened all the ground contacts for the engine wiring harness and reset the ecu. It seems to have done the trick! Tach flutter is gone, and I drove the car around without issue. Thanks very much for the help!! I'm studying to be a mechanic and this old car has given me a lot of homework. Appreciate the support!