Just as a little legal background. Rolling back your odometer for the reason of personal benefit is fraud. Which is a felony, and can land you in federal pound you in the a$$ prison. No conjugal visits for you. Now you can change your odometer legally for several reasons, and it is not my responsibility to tell you them all.

One side note before I continue, one quick story. I was looking for purchasing another CRX about 4 years ago. One seller said that the car was original 70k mileage. Once I car faxed it, I found out that he was lying. At this point he broke my trust, and it completely changed the negotiations. Negotiating with someone you know has lied to you makes the situation hard for both of you.

The USDM has 6.5k redline, and 125mph top speed. Whereas, the UKDM has a 8k redline, and 155mph top speed. So my stock odometer reads 118968, and my UKDM reads 154293. Of course I don't want to add 30k mileage to my car, so I wanted to match the odometer.

 

Step 1.

Disconnect the wire that provides power to the upper lights.

Step 2.

There are 5 clips holding the front cover onto the cluster. The clear plastic is glued on to the black. I would advise not trying to disconnect those, as they may crack. I walked around the top three clips. As I got one out, I put an allen bit in of the proper gap to keep it from popping back into place. Also, the trip reset button just has a rubber *** on the end that pulls off.

 

Step 3.

There are 4 Phillips screws holding the speed gauge in place. They are in the left on the back. After removing these the speed section should pop out.

 

(I started taking pictures as I was putting it back together to show how I took it apart at this point.)

Step 4.
Remove the needle. If, you hold your finger on the back cylinder area, you should be able to move the needle and keep the dial stationary. This will enable your to move the needle back and forth as pull it off.

Step 5.
Remove the two Phillips screw from the front and remove the face-plate. This will also remove a clear pink adapter.

 

Step 6.

Now you must remove the odometer. The one side has the pin sticking out just a bit longer than the other side. Just use pliers to pop it out. The other side will pull out.

Step 7.

Adjust the numbers. If you want to add 10,000 miles, you hold X,XXX and turn it forwards. If you want to remove, turn it backwards. This works for every set. So adjusting at 100 means you turn XX digits.

 

Step 8.

Just reverse the steps and put it back together. The one note is to line up the pins when putting the odometer back in. You can see the black pins wrapping around the metal in the picture below.

 

Here is a picture once it is installed

 

First time?

Time wise, what do you think the start-finish is? I need to do this down the road when I upgrade my cluster. Thanks for the step by step and pics.

Very cool!

 

Yes first time. Well I was really drunk when I did it, and was watching TV. Don't really know how long it took, probably took an hour. I guess it could be done in 15-20 minutes if your on your game and already know the steps.

It took an additional hour to install the cluster in the car. The mounting had to be modified, and the trim had to be shaved down.

 

It appears you went from an 88-89 cluster and are now using an 90-91 if so is the wiring the same? Looks good though.

 

It is a UKDM cluster. Looks like a 90-91, except for the limits. The wiring was straight forward, but the mount and trim had to be modified a little.

 

Maybe the UKDM is weird like the JDM clusters and the years are slightly different than the USDM automotive years. Turned out fine to me!

 

Interesting.

I "heard" the 90-91 is a straight fit. But the 88-89 requires some "fiddling" to make it work. Not bad, just a little more work than the 90-91s.

 

Why didn't you just find a 90-91 cluster hood?

 

Why when it only takes less than an hour to make it work, and it would take more than an hour to find one in good condition?

Additionally it isn't just the hood, it is also the mounting bracket.

 

You went to the trouble of rolling back your mileage, but couldn't bother to mount the cluster correctly.

It may take less than an hour to make it look like it's obviously not supposed to be there, but "fits," when it could take what, a week(?) to wait on shipping for the CORRECT hood and cluster mounts to arrive at your doorstep and TWO minutes to mount correctly with EIGHT SCREWS (no rotary tool needed). Surely it took longer than an hour for that UKDM cluster to arrive...

 

Double post

 

The thread wasn't about installing it, was it? It was how to fixing the odometer.

A slight modification is not incorrect. It is just apart of dealing with multiple years and multiple models. And FYI I didn't need a rotary tool, I used a piece of sand paper that only had to take out 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch on a non visible area. Again this thread never went into that. If you want to write the "right" way to "mount" a cluster feel free.