I have an aftermarket steering wheel and a relocated horn button that I have all working except for my cruise control. I have already searched and this thread here (http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=215724) has been a major help, getting me this far:



The only thing his install does not include is a relocated horn button since his horn is integrated into the steering wheel. Can someone help me determine where I need to connect the second wire from the two cruise control buttons? Assume all connections are functional and sound (all have been soldered not crimped). I have already attempted connecting the (?) wire to the chassis ground and this has not worked. Does the SRS system need to be intact (do I need the 2 ohm resistor to relieve the warning light since the airbag is removed) to have cruise control functioning?

Thanks for any advice or help

 

Just attempted this:


No dice. Horn still works, but cruise control does not. Any and all help is appreciated.

 

Bump

 

I have no idea what year Astro van you're working on but the set and resume buttons (if those are even what you're talking about) send a ground signal to the cruise module.

 

Astro van lol... Vehicle in question is a 94 Civic EX w/ SRS. Thanks for the reply nub, yes I am referring to the set and resume buttons. I apologize if I was not clear enough on explaining my problem. So are the wires #4 and #5 from the SRS plug ground then? I tested them with a multimeter and I think they are. Also the multimeter showed that #6 is 12+ so I thought that last picture/diagram should have worked for me.

 

What you're calling the SRS is plug is the cable reel connector. Pin locations 4 and 5 would have continuity to ground only when either the set or resume buttons were pressed. I think pin 6 is the ground pass through for the horn button to the horn relay.


Have you checked the under dash fuses 12, 15 and 24?
How about the under hood fuses 39, 41 and 42?

Speedometer and tach both function.

 

Cable reel connector, got it. Speedometer and tach both function, and I have checked every fuse. All are intact

 

Why is the horn relocated and not ON the steering wheel?

 

I suspect the horn not being connected through the original cable reel connector may be a problem. Trouble shooting the original set/resume buttons involves shorting the inputs to grond at the cruise module, pushing the buttons should cause the horn to honk if they are functioning.


There are many things that can keep a cruise control system from working though.

 

Just wondering because I have an aftermarket wheel with a working horn (on the wheel) and no cable reel pretty much wired as shown in every other DIY out there for aftermarket wheels. Adding the CC buttons should be a snap. Pick a spot and ground the buttons.

 

Found a slightly more in detail diy on d-series.org (http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-f...ket-wheel.html) and am running the set-up he has and I assume most other people with aftermarket wheels are running. It looks as such (Hope no one minds the pictures):


With a multimeter on the exposed copper of the joint where pin #'s 4, 5, and 6 meet when I press the "accel" button (pin #4) I'm getting a voltage drop down to 6 volts from 12. I assume this means it is grounding correctly? When I do the same test with the set button (pin #5) I get no voltage drop.

I separately tested the switches for accel and decel by putting 12 volt current through one side of the switch and measuring the other side of the switch and am getting continuity through both of them when they are depressed so I'm confused why I'm not getting voltage drop when pressing the set button.

 

Also noted, when I press the horn button with this wiring set-up I get no beep, but when I revert back to having the 12 volts straight from the horn relay (spliced into the blue/red 12+) to the horn switch it does beep

EDIT: is there a way to circumvent the SRS cable reel altogether, or since my vehicle is equipped with SRS is the SRS just too tied into the rest of the equipment?

 

Can you easily revert back to stock? This would confirm the system still works after what you've tried so far. Some of your methods seem suspect and there's a possability you damged the cruise module.

 

Sorry for the late response, I just got off work.. When I say that I tested with a multimeter and got a voltage drop I mean at this point here:

Which should show a voltage drop because pin #6 has 12 volts running through it, and when I press one of the cruise buttons the signal from pin #6 is grounded, correct?

On this:
"This also makes no sense. The blu/red horn wire is a ground signal that triggers the horn relay. You might be measuring voltage coming from the constant power side of the relays coil. I don't think the factory relays are diode isolated but I'm not 100% sure."

I mean the blue/red wire on the loom before the plug goes into the horn relay, that is where I have 12 volts coming from. You say that it is supposed to be a ground, am I measuring it incorrectly? I put the positive lead of the multimeter on the wire and the negative on the chassis, and that's where I got 12 volts from.

Forgive my ignorance with the switch testing, I'll try to perform a continuity/resistance test using my multimeter on them. On the subject of reverting back to the old srs harness, I'll try and do that tomorrow morning as soon as I can, as right now it is thunderstorming outside.

 

You reading power on the blu/red horn wire I think is just power coming through the relays coil. This is normal if there isn't a diode on the coil. That wire is a ground to trigger the relays coil when the horn button is pushed. The wht/grn wire on the relay is the constant +12V for the coil.

Do you know where the CC module is? There are some test you can do before you go through the trouble of putting the stock wheel back on.

 

Okay, Gotcha.

I'm game. It's in the engine bay just north of the power steering pump isn't it?

 

That's the actuator. You want to test the control module, it's in the drivers kick panel area behind the carpet.









Start with testing wires 1,2,5,8,9 and 14

 

Thanks, nub. I'll do all of this first thing in the morning and report back.

 

Wire:

[#1]1.6 when leads held together, with one lead on wire and one lead on ground reads 1.5/1.6

[#2].01 on DCV setting

[#5]With black lead on pink wire, and red on ground with the clutch pedal at resting position I got a reading of 6.3, then 3, then 1.6 on 200 ohm setting. When clutch was depressed it fell back to 1 ohm

[#8]With red lead on ground and black lead on gray wire I get -12.XX on 20 DCV setting

[#9]0 V

[#14]0 V

I'm thinking my multi-meter might be suspect here seeing as it is the free one from Harbor Freight, but here are the results I got nonetheless.

 

With your meter set to DCV, put the negative lead on the vehicles (-) battery terminal and your meters positive lead on the batteries (+) terminal.

What does your meter read?

Does your meter have a lower resistance setting than 200?

If your meter is funtioning correct and you tested the wires correct your 0 reading on wire 2 and 14 are going to keep the CC from working.

Voltage test the under dash fuse #24 (15A) with the ignition on II.

 

With the leads on the battery as you described, I get 12.67 volts. The lowest resistance setting on this meter is 200 ohms..

Testing fuse #24 with the multi meter yields 12.66 volts. So likely an open circuit in the black/yellow wire. Sounds like a PIA to deal with, could I run a new wire alongside the harness and just solder it into the plug or would it be more convenient to just get a new harness? I don't know if the cruise harness ties into everything or is it's own separate entity.

 

 

Alright thanks for all the help, probably would have taken ages for me to figure out on my own. Now I've got a new project to tackle