hello ll.my 95 ex wagon has been expiriencing stalling issues intermetiedly???it seems to happen when the vehicle has been driven for a some time and warmed up,and when i come to a stop light,and has also happened when driving steadily??? possibly tps??? HELLp!!!

 

Do you have trouble starting it after it stalls? Does it have rough idle, stuttering or anything like that?

 

it usually starts right back up after 2 or 3 tries.sometimes i have to kinda of do the brake,and gas thing as to not let the rpms drop,as it will stumble and turn off again?

 

As asoRm asked does the car run rough when not idling, such as a misfire or hesitation? It could be an iacv issue, also couldn't hurt to check the calibration on the tps using a voltmeter. At closed throttle you should see .48 to .5v, and here's a link that should help with cleaning the iacv https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/cleaning-iacv-fitv-tb-1844067/

 

ok,today it died died after driving for about and hour,and seems to happen more frequent when i slam on the brakes(say like when you second guess a yellow light,lol,DAMN intersection cameras!)today it actually died while traveling around 45 mph mid way through driving? there is a slight shudder when it stalls when hard braking is applied?

 

Stalling under braking sounds like a fuel problem to me, perhaps check the fuel pump for proper operation and see how dirty the sock is as well as check for proper pressure at the rail

 

ok,i just installed a new fuel pump with sock and all? how would i check the pressure at the rail?

 

Two things you could do, one is a lot less proper than the other. You could use a fuel pressure gauge at the test port and verify the proper pressure or the simple and vague way would be to lay down some rags and loosen the bolt on top of the filter and verify there is fuel for about 3 seconds when you turn the key to the on position, which obviously won't give you an accurate number but you will at least know there's fuel up front. After that if there is fuel then check the regulator for proper operation

 

Again I only find the fuel system suspect because of your mention of braking effecting the cars ability to stay running. It wouldn't hurt to probe the tps with a voltmeter to see if it's in spec (closed throttle should be .48 to .5v) as well as checking plugs, wires, cap, and rotor (although they shouldn't cause the car to stall out entirely, just cause a misfire). I would suggest checking the iacv but when moving such as at 45mph the car should be using cruise idle (set with the idle screw) rather than the conventional idle the ecu makes by comparing the map and tps voltages when stationary

 

alritey,im on a mission! thanks for the list of possibles i will report back with findings!