I have recently returned to a pain in the butt that I stored away about a year ago.

I swapped a d16z6 into a 91 CRX Si
I used the obd0 distributor, ecu, harness and alternator.
When I tried starting it, I got nothing, checked fuses and the horn/brake fuse (No. 35) under the hood was blown.

Put a new fuse in. Popped it without key in ignition.

We are getting fuel.
Disconnected alternator, distributor, and ecu and still blew the fuse so I assume it's none of those things.

With new fuse in and negative terminal disconnected, when you connect the terminal, for a split second, you can hear a buzzing or clicking sound then goes away when it pops.

Already got a new main relay.
There is a plug beside the fuses and when you disconnect that, it doesn't blow.

Some of this information might be irrelevant but thought I'd just put everything I know out there.

Have any questions, just ask.

Tyler

 

Seems like you either connected something wrong, or you got a short somewhere in that particular wiring. I would see what wire(s) are hooked to that ecu fuse and follow them. It may be time consuming since you have to visibly inspect all the wires. Unless you are sure you wired everything right.

There may be a chance the ecu is fried but I'd start small

 

Edit: It was actually the horn/brake fuse that was blowing. Whoops! Any help?

 

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Does anyone know if that fuse does not allow the car to start?

 

bump
working on it today. any ideas?

 

There may be a short in one of the two circuit.

To narrow down whether the short may be in the brake lights circuit or the horns circuit:

Disconnect the brake pedal light switch. If Fuse 35 (20A) still blows with the brake pedal light switch disconnected, then the short probably is in the horns circuit.

If it is related to the horns circuit, a possibility of a short may be at the steering wheel contact ring. Does your car have the original steering wheel or an aftermarket steering wheel?

 

Fuse No. 35 is not related to the starting system circuit.

 

Ok so turns out the steering wheel ring contact was causing the short. It was an aftermarket wheel and I heard a strange noise coming from the wheel when I turned it. The contact was bent backward and probably shorting out

Now, it still wont start. I'm almost certain the problem is in the ignition timing. I plan on swapping everything over to obd1 in the furture but first, I just wanna know if this motor runs. I got it from a junk yard years ago and its been sitting a while.

Anyone know how an a6 distributor can be oriented on a z6 head. I realize it doesn't match bolt patterns but I'm just interested in getting it to fire right now.

By the way, thanks tech8!

 

Put an ohm meter on it check and measure resistance on all leads you may have a short

 

He already found the short.